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About dirtyduramax97

  • Birthday 10/13/1992

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  1. bump.. Come on car audio nerds someone must have some insight on what causes amps to just suddenly fail like this.
  2. hmm, Well when I felt the amp it was not even warm, and I only had the components set up so was only using 2 channels. Gains were literally turned up 1/10th. Thanks for the input but I do not believe overheating was the issue this time around.
  3. Ok, looking for some insight on what could of caused this issue. Before I jump into the problem Ill give a quick insight to my vehicle, system and background with car audio. Im by no means a professional but I have installed more systems then I can count and never had any issues blowing an amp. I have a silverado with a duramax and just dropped a couple thousand dollars on a dope system. Truck has dual batts, dual alternators. I have done big 3. 0 gauge throughout, Im running 2 8" sundown audio SA-rev 3 in a custom box tuned to 36 hz off a prs-d5000spl 1600 rms at 2 ohms. Speaker side Ive got the sundown audio sd-6.5 components, and awaiting my sundown audio neo pro 6.5" in the mail. So I bought the wolfram audio 250.4 Got a kick ass deal the amp is overkill for my mids and highs but for 60$ more then the 125.4 I would be stupid not to. So I had everything installed, I did everything the same way Ive always done all my installs/friends installs except I made sure to cut no corners whatsoever very clean and to the best of my knowledge "by the book". So I tuned the amps probaly had the components running for half an hour, Gains turned waaay down and was super happy with the sound. Blew my skar system in my car out of the water. The following day was driving around with the kids and wife had the volume very low like barely on. Pulled into a mall and as I was parking heard a pop from the speakers. Quickly turned the vehicle off and instantly smelt that dreaded smoke... Popped the hood my fuse did not blow. Check the amps both are green neither in protect. Can smell the burning from the wolfram. I unplug the 0 gauge from the battery and once home unplug everything and pull the amp out. Once flipping the amp around, notice 2 burnt spots on the board. Wolfram has a plexiglass rear with built in fans. Cant make any sense why there is no built in fuses like every other amp I have ever owned. Anyways So amp is pooched! I have sent it back to the site i bought it from with literally 1 hour of playing time. Voltage in the vehicle has never dropped below 14v. Wolfram and pioneer amp share ground locations but each have their own 0 gauge wire its a bolt right through the body all paint removed. Ground cannot be the issue, voltage cannot be the issue, What else can cause an amp to do this? Hoping someone with more knowledge on amps can give me some insight. The owner of the shop has told me the amp will be inspected and if it is determined product failure (which is extremely unlikely) his words exactly. It would be fixed at no cost. I know this post is long so for those that read the whole thing and have some insight I appreciate it! Ive never blew an amp before and from my 10 years experience installing systems they usually blow from poor ground, Clipping, or voltage drop. Ill attatch a few pics of the amp and what is noticably burnt up. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction on what the hell went wrong.
  4. Hello all, Looking to hear from someone who has done the big 3 upgrade on a 2009 duramax. I have a couple questions. I have done big 3 upgrades on a few other vehicles which had alot less going on under the hood making it all a no brainer. Now being that this truck has 2 batteries and 2 alternators im just curious if big 3 turns into big 6 lol. Do each battery need to have - to block as well as + to each alternator? As well as block to chassis? Im not looking to cut any corners I want it done right im just not sure if your supposed to do each battery and each alternator or if one is fine being that it is in paralell. I have searched everything I can find online and theres very little info. I know theres also a voltage regulator that is supposed to be on top of the ground wires that tells the alternator when and how much to charge (apparently a gm thing). I do not see this unit on the drive side near the battery like I seen online. Is it possible this truck does not have one or mayby I was looking at an older model online. Also I read from one user not to do any positive leads due to to many amps travelling through the path of least resistance and possibly frying some cables? Never heard of something like this before. Ive read to leave all oem cables in place and just do a second run. Anyone that has done big 3 on a duramax please lemme know how you did yours and if you have had any issues... Thanks for reading!
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