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sICSoundz

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  1. I don't recall that it does but do those amps have a variable potentiometer for phase? If so, strap the coils. Pick up a o-scope, even the little red guys for $20-$30 on amazon work just fine. I just remembered though you need a 2channel scope to match the phase. You can do it by feel too. Gain barely open and volume really low, you just need to feel the ever so slightest vibration....... wire the voice coils backwards on 1 amp, so they go against each other, adjust phase until the sub is perfectly still. Adjust one amp to see if movement gets better or worse to determine which one is out of phase, Obviously if it worsens, turn it back and adjust the other amp. (They are always out of phase especially if they are not sibling amps hence why they recommend not to strap amps unless bought together new and ran together. Components have typically a 5% +/- tolerance which is huge, Components also have different break down properties and can become out of spec with one another simply because the silica was not of the exact same batch.) To set frequency, play a test tone of your desired frequency and with a DMM on the outputs, watch the voltage as you adjust the potentiometer, once it peaks then starts to count down, dial back to that peak and there's frequency. Set frequencies before everything else.
  2. you used mdf right? Not out too much then. I use oak and birch and actually never used mdf lol. the app lets you set crossovers and eq. Actually set crossover by inputting a number for the frequency which is nice as long as it hits that number hahaha. but that is amazing for setting up and 4channel for a front stage. I like my big amps, My truck interiors I have a Sundown Sax-100.4v1 which is like 21" long with my twisted sounds 3.5k which is 24" long lol. My car I have a CT Sounds AT7000.1d 31" long, and a Crescendo C1100.4 at 23" long I believe. Just feels like you get something for your money haha. I like to build slot port, subs up port back. I have done side port with 3 common walls and bottom ports with 1 common wall. How did you flare the pvc?
  3. order one from crescendo, $20. I strongly believe they are the same, if not I will reimburse you and pay for shipping to me.
  4. Caps do offer reserve, albeit not much but you can charge them up to 15v unlike a battery. Yes for at MINIMUM for every positive connection there needs to be the equal amount of negative. Do not ground your amp to the battery either. batteries and amps all have their own grounds. Can never have too many grounds but surely can have too few.
  5. so each sub has its own chamber? also reading in your thread, even flush mounting your subs it is still a double baffle, the subwoofer doesn't need to be screwed through both. I have ran into people saying no it's not, It is just common sense, once glued they become 1 and both would need to flex still which that is the whole point of a double (or more) baffle is to eliminate flex and to support heavy drivers but even extra support will be there just not with the screws. The subs you are using you are 100% fine doing a flush mount with the sub being secured to just one 3/4" layer. With taking your dimensions, minus .75 on the width and divide by 2 and just calculating it by 1 chamber I am getting box tuning of 52Hz. If you used a 3" port instead I got 39Hz which is much closer to where you want to be. I like slot port personally.
  6. sorry I forgot to bring my laptop to the shop yesterday. I would pass on the autotek for sure. I'd still go the jensen, they have done the dyno on them already and even though the name is blah in the industry they actually turn out good products. They have gone the way of commercial radios and such as opposed to car audio but they still obviously do that as well. I used to work with custom outfitted buses and the radios with PAs and everything were all Jensen, monitors and the like. I believe Dual was jensen as well hence why they look similar and as for quality I can not say anything negative about them. the PCBs were nice and thick and the quality of components were always really good, caps always were name brand and 105* rated which have a substantially greater life cycle over 85*. I do mess with rebuilding amps here and there so I have had my fair share of cheap amps to learn on that is why I say what I say. I'll look into your encloseure now.
  7. oh fyi, Toro quaity looks alright inside, but so does jensen so for what it is, you shouldnt have a issue with either.
  8. I have no need for another 4 channel amp but I want to try that little fella haha. Ill be in the shop shortly, Ill see what I find about the enclosure,
  9. smoked the power supply and the driver ICs. Without inspecting the amp to see if the ouput section took down the power supply or not it is a shot in the dark, however voltage or ground would be suspect given your story. There is no sure fire way really to tell how a amp went down, except vibration damage and knowing it was ran hard when it has blown or buldged output caps.
  10. what amplifier? Position you have your gain turned determines nothing. Bass boost is nasty, It is amazing how easily it turns the sine wave to a clipped signal. Turn the speakers down at the HU, amp the interiors or get a line driver are some options. If you run speakers off the head unit and only a sub amp, turn the volume to how ever loud the interior speakers sound good. If sending a little distortion into a sub amp you will have no problems, if the signal is clean on a speaker it will be fine at the amp. If the distortion was too much you would potentially have a couple notes off. Fun fact: You can send a square wave into a amp and it will come out a sine wave.
  11. Get that jensen amp at walmart, built in DSP for $94, why not. Ws going to suggest audiopipe apmn 2000 but looks like you got that one taken care of. What are your box specs including port size? I can run it on the calculator. You can always turn a amplifier down as it doesn't need to be ran at rated, It does not hurt to have the headroom. You can't however turn a amp up past it's ratings! haha.
  12. These amps do not ride along ground, there is no negative rail voltage, it rides along half voltage, swings up to top of rail and then swings down to ground then back to half voltage. So the speaker terminals will have voltage always on them and "noise". You will benefit more from a cap bank as the caps will absorb, store and distribute 15v or what ever your alternator is charging at. They also clean up any floor noise and also take a little of the shock off batteries and alternator. You would benefit greatly going with Lithium, I would look into headway if I were you seeing as you have a few AGMs now, You can actually run LifePo4(most popular used of that chemistry is headway 8ah "red" cells) with your AGMs. i run headway, agm and have a 566F cap bank. Make sure you do not stave that amp, They are no more efficient than half bridge and are power hungry as well.
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