Jump to content

DallasBass91

Members
  • Posts

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DallasBass91

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

DallasBass91's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • One Month Later Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done Rare

Recent Badges

3

Reputation

  1. I’ll check it out thanks for the heads up
  2. I’ve never competed or metered any builds, with that being said I have a question. When I was testing out my build to see how loud it sounded (by ear) it seemed that my test tones don’t sound as loud as my decaf music. Is this common or are my ears playing tricks on me? Would my decaf music get a higher score than just test tones? I’m not sure how it works honestly. I feel like my build should be able to meter at least a 150 but after just playing a test time I’m not so sure.
  3. I do want to go lithium though I was thinking headway cells or something like that to save money instead of buying a built one.
  4. Lol I appreciate the sound advice, never hurts to put it out there, I have the sundown x18’s v.1 d4 in a newly built flat wall in a 2015 Altima , I’m hoping to get the v2 recone when they come back. Also for power I have the 300amp js alternator on the way, xs power 3400r under the hood, d3100 in the back, big 3, all grounds are sanded, rear battery has a dedicated power run from the alternator as does the front battery. All cables is OFC. 1/0 except for the speaker cable which is 8ga I still still have to brace the inside of the port which is a slotted port along the top of the subs (adjustable port/removable). Wall is made of MDF and the port is made of birch with a MDF baffle. Lots of foam and every other part of the box has been braced
  5. Solid advice there, sounds like if I wire it down I’m blowing something no matter what, I guess I’ll just have to save up for a new amp and run this setup until then, I have a 300amp alt on the way from js and a couple xs d3100 batteries, I’ll probably try the taramps bass 8k instead of the sfb line, hopefully it works out for me. I’m running 2 x18’s btw
  6. Thanks for the reply, I don’t have enough space for another sub, I’m running 2 18’s in a Nissan Altima wall
  7. I have 2 subwoofers both are dual 4’s, if I wire 1 subwoofer in series for 8ohm and the other in parallel for 2 ohm can I then parallel them at the amp? What would my ohm load be? im trying to get the final impedance as close to 2 ohms as possible
  8. I have x18v1 subs which are not rated to high on rms, can I use a x18v2 recone kit on it and increase the rms it can take? Would this be a good idea?
  9. Thank you, it always helps to get insight from people especially ones who are more knowledgeable than me like yourself. I’m just wanting to have my subwoofers wired down to 1 ohm, which would mean the amps split the load so .5 each. So I guess that’s 1 ohm strapped? I’m not entirely sure but at 1 ohm w/14.7v they put out roughly 3409-3500 watts each but since they are splitting the load I believe they will need the voltage required for a .5 load even though they won’t be putting out .5ohm power. I know I would be much better off just getting one 6k rms amplifier and wiring the d4 subs to 1 ohm into the 1 amplifier since that would be a lot easier on the electrical, but the problem with that is I’m broke AF lol I’m just trying to make due with what I have. I know there is a lot more power I’m not currently using and as bad as it is to do I’m factoring in box rise which should be at least .3ohms which has me thinking it is possible for me to do without doing anything to crazy. I would be happy with 13v and drops to 12.4 on music. Also my goal with this is to hit mid 150s I’d really like having a 155 sticker on my car
  10. I will I can’t play anything outside of the range of 29hz-46hz with any kind of authority. If I play outside that range the bass quiets down ALOT
  11. I did the feel test like you suggested and it has very low movement at 41hz so I’d guess I’m around there. And the wires are wrapped in layers of electrical tape like a ball of it and then wedged into the hole from the inside
  12. I have 2 d4 subwoofers wired to 4 ohm final right now. They are powered by 2 massive drago 6k amplifiers (strapped) if I’m right this means the subs are getting 4 ohms each, and each amplifier is using the amperage required for a 2 ohm load (correct me if I’m wrong please). these amps say in the manual that when linked the min. Impedance is 2 ohms which I take that as they are only rated for 1ohm each and are not .5 stable. Being that I have 2 dvc 4 ohm subs I can only wire them to 4 ohm final and 1 ohm final. If I wire to 1 ohm final each sub would be running at 1 ohm but each amplifier would require the voltage for a .5 ohm load. If my thought process is correct what would my amperage requirements be to lessen the chance of failure here? would I be ok with a 300amp alternator and 200 AH in batteries (agm) I can’t afford lithium atm. In the future I plan on doing 2 banks of roughly 24 headway lifepo4 cells each bank. sorry for the long winded post
  13. I posted some updated pictures, do you mind telling me what you think?
  14. The port is 24” deep 4.5” tall and 34” wide its been foamed and braced now, I still have a couple little spots to fill in like the gap at the top which I will be foaming the shaving flat and a bit on the side of each face all of which I will eventually carpet, a brace is now inside the box, on top of the box, and steel angel brackets have been put at the bottom to stop the box from moving. I still need to put a brace down the center of the port to get rid of port flex, it only flexes on one particular decaf song I listen to. Any other things you guys think I should do? The tuning feels a lot better now that all this has been done. I can play down to about 29 right now, I feel like I’m loudest at about 38hz
×
×
  • Create New...