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TaylorB

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Posts posted by TaylorB

  1. 19 hours ago, CorNut said:

    I like the Kicker CXA1200 as long as you get the newer 1 ohm stable one (46CXA1200.1) if you want to keep the Kicker theme for the subs. That particular amp is 1 ohm stable, but it also produces its 1200w at 2 ohm which will help combat box rise. The downside is they have a fixed subsonic (high pass) filter, but since you're running sealed, setting a specific subsonic isn't as crucial. I think it'll work fine for you. There's a lot of other non kicker options too but I've had great results with kicker amps. The CXA line has done well for me in cars with auto start/stop where the voltage dips and they've never cut out. That amp currently goes for around $400 and the bass knob has to be purchased separately (~$20-30). If that's too much, check out CT Sounds' offerings. The CT-1500.1D (bass knob is included) goes for $200, less if you sign up for their newsletter for a coupon on your first purchase.

    Should I go with the kicker amp you recommended or the DC audio 1.2k both are around the same price. 

  2. Im going to be using 2 kicker L7T 12" subwoofers in a sealed box in the back seat of my 2017 toyota tacoma. For door speakers im using 4 6.5" Deafbounce Arnold M65AN on a Down4Sound JP23 1000 watt 4 channel amp. Each kicker subwoofer is 600 watts rms a piece and they will be wired down to 1ohm making the final wattage (rms) 1200 watts. My goal is SPL, I want to rattle the doors off my tacoma. The question is which 1200 watt rms amplifier is best for me, I need a high efficient, not a huge footprint, and an amplifier that can produce the 1200 watts under 14.4 volts. If anyone has any suggestions that I should change in my build im open to new ideas. Thanks for the help

  3.  

    I have a 350 amp apex alternator, a front battery delete with sky-high terminals, and a 40ah lithium battery in the back next to the amp. Im running dual 1/0 for my big 3 and from my battery delete terminals to my lithium battery in the back. My question is what size fuse do I use for my alternator positive to the battery delete terminal? My next question is What size fuse do I use from my battery delete terminal to the 40ah lithium battery in the back? (Keep in mind my big3 which also includes alt positive to battery terminal positive is 2 runs of 1/0. My battery delete terminal to 40ah lithium is also two runs of 1/0, its about 25 feet from battery delete terminal to battery.) 
    Thanks guys! :)

    BTW ALL FUSES ARE ANL 

     
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