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itsjeremy87

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  1. Really? Wouldn't I have had horrible dimming and a short lived alt? The smd/skar etc bench tests of these amps show they can pull upwards of 1600 watts at hard hits. My alt was dying anyways and a 3g 130 amp alt is the usual/easiest/cheapest upgrade for my car. I have a fully loaded v-8 with power everything, so it had me worried to even run 1000. I'd like my old halogen headlights to be burning bright until I can retro fit leds, also Winters coming and heat at the same time as music and lights would be nice and I wasn't trusting my old lincoln's designers to have given me much aftermarket accessory headroom from that old 65 amp let alone a system that could (however short of burst) try drawing well over 100 amps. I do like my music loud lol. Well my alts installed, so I'll be ordering my setup kit soon. If it works, breaks or I have problems I'll come back here with updates.
  2. Basically your just trying to find a better route for your wires to keep them from being bent/pinched.
  3. It's a rather simple fix that's worth a shot imo. That way you've eliminated any wires possibly being pinched when the doors a closed.
  4. I wouldnt be much help without seeing what grommet your talking about. The rubber boot that houses the doors incoming electrical? Usually they pop right out and you can run your wires along the same wiring bundle, following factory routes.
  5. Is your wiring routed so it could possibly getting pinched somehow or somwhere (i.e. door jamb, trim etc... when the doors are closed). Still seems wiring. Bad wire. Open wire, Loose connection. Something along those lines when you close your doors. Try one door at a time and see if you can isolate it to one door and re check that sides wiring.
  6. Thank you. I know I'm probably pushing my electrical with this. So bottom line, make sure I have the big 3 done and I should be able to run this: https://www.skaraudio.com/collections/sdr-series-loaded-enclosures-and-subwoofer-bass-packages/products/sdr-2x12d4-rp-1200-1d-skar4anl-ofc-complete-bass-package no major problems, if my stock alt was a 65 amp and my new one is 130. Or should I shop for 1000 watts?
  7. Thanks for the reply guys. I had to change most of the charging wires as it was to install the new 130amp because the old G2 uses plug connectors instead of the big cables that bolt on. I actually had to have my mechanic help me figure it out (I'm typically not a ford guy). The battery is a brand new deep cycle One thing I would add to your guys argument for your vehicles. They are much newer than mine and the electrical systems were probably over built some from the factory with all of today's electronics, verse what was coming from factories in the 80's, so that's my concern. But my main thing was the alt. If my stock one was only 65amps that means it should have only needed around 30 to 40 or so amps to run efficiently if the 50 to 60% rule of the original alts capacity were used in most cars. Some say this rule is correct? Other people say stock alternators only have around 10 to 15% reserve so that's what im trying to figure out. So adding a 130amp for me should be like you guys putting in about a 200amp alt like they typically reccomend for this system no? Not trying to burn my car down or have it run like garbage. Thanks!
  8. I dont see anyone asking this type of question anywhere. The questions all seem to be putting higher rated amplifiers on from their stock 100,110,130 amp alt.. instead of my situation. So what if my original stock alternator was actually lower than those? By essentially doubling what mine was I should now have that extra available amps from my moderately low one now right? I'm pretty new to adding any high amount of audio power to a car so I'm trying to learn, as I prefer to do my own installs or work on my cars. So heres my question. My stock alternator was 65amps. If i do the math to try and figure out if I can put the system I want in, I believe I'll be ok, But I would like an expert oppinion. So if I do the math of 14.4 volts X 65, that gives me 936 watts. (I'm using watts cause the math seemed more simple) Based on the research I've done for figuring this, They say 50 to 60% of that is needed to run the car (89 lincoln town car). 60% being 561.6 watts. That would leave me with an available overhead with that alt about 375 watts. Keeping this in mind I've now upgraded to a 130amp alt. Doing the math now 14.4 volts X 130 gives me 1872 total watts I can now produce. 1872 watts minus the hypothetical 561 watts my car would need to just run (@ 60% of the original alt) I should be left with about 1,311 of overhead power now, correct? I really want to run a 1200 watt rms class D amp on this. It's the Skar 1200.1D to be exact, I know these amps want to draw more and I may get some dimming at full tilt. But these being class D are supposed to be efficient. And unless I'm blasting it full tilt and have the gains down i should be ok no? Should I consider something else in the 1000rms range? I'm on a tight budget and looking for a whole kit that slams good in the $500 range, like the skar sdr 12's I'm looking at. These look the best I can find, that are going to give me the bass I want. I've tried figuring out what my cars stock amperage draws are by adding up the fuses under the hood like some suggest, but only get ridiculous 300+ amp figures doing it that way. Any help from you guys is appreciated.
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