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About Zim819

  • Birthday 08/19/1988

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  1. Ok thank you. Yes everything will be set correctly. I will be purchasing an oscilloscope to set my gains and make sure there’s no clipping. I thought about a wall, but honestly unsure. I had madea post before about joining boxes and having a common center port. I had designed a couple cabinets on sub box pro. But unsure if there quality. or if there correct. https://subbox.pro/en/b/8jJY3JVh3 https://subbox.pro/en/b/JYQ2KUuYP
  2. Depends on where you go. I’ve seen MDF $45-$50 a sheet and birch $90+ I’ll definitely be saving to purchase birch.
  3. I tried copying and pasting the manufacture info but it wouldn’t save. it’ll be in 2011 ford e250 which is my work/personal vehicle. Id like to do two separate boxes and join them as one. Because I’d like to have my port in the center, instead of one side or the other. I plan to have the box between the two front seats standing up the the front of my cab. like in the picture. I already know the port looks like crap in the picture. I rushed. It was a learning lesson. I’m just wanting to make sure the box and design are good and not going to damage my subs.
  4. Thanks, I’m not sure why the font was black nor could I figure out how to change it
  5. I’m trying to design a box for my two 15 Incriminator audio lethal injections. I’ve designed the box on sub box pro and modeled it on winisd. To be honest I’m not 100% sure what all I’m looking for. my -f3 is 28.61 hz My rear port air velocity is between 18 and 19. Ideal is below 18? I’m wanting to make sure everything’s ok before I start building boxes. My plan is to build two single boxes and stack them and glue them together like one big box. I’ve kept everything for the box with in factory specs of recommended and maximum. This will be in my daily driver. Any direction or advice would be much appreciated Subwoofer box 1/13/22 2nd try
  6. Ok thank you. I will make sure everything is symmetrical and both subs are an the same distance from the port.
  7. I have a 2011 Ford E250 that is my work/daily driver. I have dual 2ohm 15 inch Incriminator Audio leathal injections I’ve one been running a single at 1 ohm in a pre fab Atrend WDX15SV box. I’ve made designs before online but haven’t ever built any of my own. I do have a couple of different design that I’ve made on sub box pro. I purchased a box design from ct sounds for two 15’s an build it. It’s more than I want in between the two front seats. I now want to get rid of my divider and build a wall. I know I will lose some storage in the back, that will get figured out with new rearrangements down the road, after wall is in. The specs for the IA LID2 call for 3.5 cf to 4 cf with a port of 48” to 56” tuned to 35hz I went on the larger side in designing them. The single cabinet is (net)4.8 cf with a port area of 76.8 I also designed a dual wall that is (net)9.6 cf with port area of 153.6 All tuned to 35hz I have a question that I can’t find answers to or maybe not looking in the correct place. I would like to have the port in the middle but not 100% on how to make that happen. Do I build two of the single cabinets and join them.? I’d like to have one port. If I joined them I’d like to remove the end pieces of both an have them be one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Zim I will be upgrading by doing the big 3, my amplifier, door speakers and an extra battery new runs of wire as this progresses. I also plan to second skin my front cabin before I start the build. 2011 Ford E250 Pioneer Double Din MVH1400NEX Rockford Fosgate P1683 Punch 6x8 Sky high RCA’s Sound box 0 gauge wire 1 15 Incriminator Audio Leathal injection Wired to 1 ohm Incriminator Audio IA10.1 8 gauge Sky high speaker wire Slam Panda Volt meter bass Knob
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