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Shmeat

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  1. 100% agree on the electrical, it is not up to snuff yet. I'm waiting to order a SHCA bass knob with volt meter. I'm not a sky high fanboy but there's not alot of rca bass knobs out there. Would the voltmeter on that be good enough? there's not as much info on the web as there seemed to be 10 years ago. After I have my gains set(which I do now with a multimeter, I don't have access to an oscope) I'd like to be able to dial it back for when I have older passengers or whatever.
  2. I'm definitely gonna check out the hu, I do like my pioneers. And I'm not against paying for a design, I've looked into it but there's so many guys doing it I don't know who's actually worth it and who's throwing out generic junk. I can't do any measuring right now but I can tomorrow. I should know my available dimensions by heart by now tho And yah, I'm glad I don't have to deal with stairs haha
  3. That's what I meant by I'm bad at the math, the online software is so foreign to me, I've tried to grasp it but I'm bad lol. I'm not asking to be spoonfed necessarily but I'm just tired of building boxes I don't use lol. Going 6 cubes isn't a bad idea but should I go areo? Slot? I still have my aero kicking around. It's a bitch getting a big ported box in and out of an f250 on 37s by myself lol Edit. I'll add that I had that 9 cube box filled with bricks until it was around 7 and it still seemed kinda farty..
  4. Sorry for the novel. Just trying to answer as many questions as I can before they're asked.
  5. Been creepin here for a while, you guys are the best! finally decided I need to chime in and get some advice specific to my build. I'm not a jerk who's going to ignore good advice or argue even if it's not what I want to hear. I'm currently running a fully loaded FI Q18 ferrite, 1750rms not the 1000rms older model, which is mostly what I find builds on, unfortunately. It is powered by a Taramps smart 3, which is fed by a pioneer avh120bt. Recently upgraded from a skar rp1500. My electrical is 1/0 SHCA ofc for everything, big 3 done plus some additional frame to body grounds. I have a lot of dimming issues (at idle my lights actually shut off to feed the amp depending on the song) I have a 300 amp alt in the mail and an AGM going into the back seat. So that's presumably taken care of, I hope lol. All this is in a 2002 crew cab F250. I do realize I bought a SQ sub. I f'd up. Possibly. I'm also 31 with a stable job and capable with wood, just not the best with the math I'll admit. so this isn't the typical I'm 17 and have a bunch of cool shit in my shopping cart on ebay post I see a lot (alot) Im disappointed with my output. I know it will possibly get better with the alt and battery but man, I've been messing with boxes, wasting money on mdf and I'm never happy. First I built a 7.5 cube ported box with a slot port, it was cool cause of first 18 build but pretty meh, I've had a similar experience with a mtx 12 for a quarter of the price lol. Next Built a 9 cube box with an 8" aeroport tuned around 33hz and it bangs, but seemed kinda "burpy" and one note also took up the whole backseat, messed with that one for a long time, even started taking up volume with bricks siliconed in place haha. My most recent box is a 3.9 cube sealed, this was mostly just to try to get some "tight" bass and reclaim some backseat. Well, it f'in sucks. Super boring. But my backseat is usable. If anyone has a direction to go im all ears, if I need to get something higher rms for my needs I will. I'll put the 18 In my house setup, But I waited 3 months for this sub and it's pretty, I'd like to make it work. But if not, oh well. I'd like to retain some backseat but not totally necessary, I mainly want this thing to Wang like it should. I also need some hu suggestions, double din, physical volume knob and more than 2v on the preouts, glass touch screen preferred but not necessary. Thanks for any advice!
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