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Tjuggs21

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  1. Hello everyone, So I wanted to give one more update to maybe help someone else out in the future who is searching for some answers. If you've read the previous post you will see that I was asking about box specs. Well I built the box installed everything and started tuning, at first I had the box facing the trunk as most people do. This sounded great once you turned it up loud enough to drowned out all the trunk rattle. I went through the trunk tightened, removed, glued, taped, adjusted trunk and everything thing that I could find that rattled I tried to eliminate it. In the end it helped but still had a bunch of rattles. So as opposed to spending hundreds more $$ installing sound deadening material, I decided to flip the box around and fire the subs into the cabin. This fixed 95% of the rattling while still sounding good, however I lost some of the deeper bass notes and it didn't seem as loud. When I popped the trunk it would sound even better and deeper and get louder. So I did a ton of research on this and about cabin noise cancellation, I mean a ton on sealing subs from the trunk, not sealing subs, aero port vs slot vs subs front port to the side. Some say to seal off the trunk other say some of the loudest trunk builds are subs forward not sealed. What I found was there really isn't a definitive answer on what's the best way and you just have to try everything out. Because every car/truck and equipment act and sound different in different situations .So here are the results from my setup in a E92 that might help someone out down the road. Subs facing trunk 6-12" from trunk = subs hit hard and deep, but lots and lots of rattle for me at least. Subs facing cabin rear seats folded down port on drivers side not sealed off = rattle pretty much eliminated, good bass response just lost a lot of deeper notes of bass. Subs facing cabin slot port on drivers side subs sealed off from trunk = Again almost zero rattle and now it is much louder and the deeper bass notes are back again. I would say this is even louder and deeper than subs facing trunk. When I say sealed off I mean I removed the rear deck lid/C pillars and sealed off all the holes and seams there I could find. Basically used gorilla water sealing tape and taped over the whole rear deck. Reinstalled the rear deck lid and then sealed the Sub box along the rear fold down seats completely. Eventually I may go in and foam all the holes as well. Well I hope this helps someone or at least this is a good read for someone searching if they should face their subs rear vs forward.
  2. Just wanted to give an update on where I am at. I just finished the box build and have everything installed. I have pictures however unsure on how to post them. The box sounds great compared to the prefab I had installed until I built a box. The prefab sucked majorly. Like we knew, the box was a pain in the butt to get it in the trunk. Had to go in through the cabin and squeeze it through the opening. It fits and I have everything hooked up however with the battery bank installed the back seats won't go all the way up and lock lol. I will have to do some adjusting when I get time. Also with the this box installed there is no getting to the factory battery without disconnecting a lot of stuff. Oh well luckily all the batteries are new. Being a European car I have a bunch of H9 group batteries installed. Might have to make the switch to lithium eventually and save some space. While this box is nice and made out of birch I will probably build one later down the road. Thanks for all the help.
  3. Hello, Thanks for the reply. So your response did raise some of the concerns I had yesterday when I was remeasuring everything before I started building. The main concern was facing the box rear and being pushed up against the trunk lid and not having enough room between subs and trunk lid. I am fine with facing subs forward and putting the seats down. So after remeasuring a few times, this is the box I was going to build. I know the measurements are a little different from what I gave but they should work space wise. So subs facing rear the box was going to be 34"w, 14"H, 26"D(Total depth of the trunk is 34"ish), the depth change is to account for the space between subs and trunk lid. Port tuned to 33hz, port area is 59" port inlet 4.72 x 12.50 gives me a 28.06 port length. This should give me a net of 3.90 cu ft. However I am no designer and this is with some software I found other people suggesting. So could be totally off, that's why I asked on here before I started building. You are right the box will have to be slid in from the cabin with the seats folded down. As for the LOC I have Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K Series. I have thought about selling the subs and going with a single 12 like Sundown, DC or Death Bounce. Something in the 700-900$ range. Thanks again for your input, you have given me a lot to think about. I really just want a system that hits harder than your average daily driven system. design.pdf
  4. Hello everyone, I am a semi-old bass head, who after joining the Army really didn't have time/money to do a lot of car audio stuff. Well now 20 years have passed and I have finally made the jump to get back in the bass game. I have the setup listed below just looking for some help with spec'ing a box to match everything. I have tried some different online box calculators, however I just want to make sure I get the box right the first time. When it comes to all the port designs I get lost. So below is what I am working with any help would be appreciated. Car: 2007 BMW E92 Box Available Dimensions: 33W, 13H, 28D Stock radio with LOC Amp: Skar RP 4500.1 Subs: 2 Skar VXF 12's dual 4ohm wired to 1ohm Cable: All OFC Sky High wire, Big 3 done, 1 line of 1/0 from 180 amp alt. (currently working with Singer on getting a 300amp Alt) Power: 3- 100AH AGM batteries, 2 runs of pos/neg to amp multiple grounds for battery bank. On Dash volt meter. I think that's it.
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