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deon1818

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  1. Not sure if you've solved any of your problems but I'd be willing to bet your head unit is sending limited signal on anything below 40 hz or so. As said above the stock HU limits those frequencies so it doesn't implode it's own stock speakers. i'd recommend looking into a sound processor or something to flatten and restore your lost lower frequencies. I had great results with a kicker KeyLoc, But you already have rcas out of the ap4 so you'll need something slightly different but with the same purpose.
  2. Okay i made a mistake. When I Put this into winisd i only applied 2000 watts which would be for one sub. your port velocity would be 42 m/s at 32 hz. at 4000 watts Not 29 m/s the port i recommended is on the small side, but you probably won't hear the chuffing if your rear facing. It will drive you nuts if you forward face. Are you using sub box pro? Your math looks spot on. And don't get me wrong these would hit pretty hard, you could probably get a bit more out of them if the port was larger and longer. I'm no box designer either. Just throwing out some info I've gathered. A single 12 inch sundown zv6 would be "harder than your average daily driven system" i believe sundown uses a five minute test tone to rate their rms so they are on the conservative side. as long as your amp is sending clean signal the zv6 should handle it well. You'll pay more per pound with DC but I've heard good things about Deaf bounce as well. You could always build this box. Run them for awhile and if it doesn't fit your needs sell the subs with the box for bookoo bucks because people will pay for a low tuned box that looks decent. And switch to a single monster 12
  3. I've had a Soundqubed hdc3 for 6 years that I haven't been able to kill. It was when I didn't know what i was doing but the sub has been in 4 vehicles and has seen clipped signal from at least 4 amps lol. Their new hdx 3 series supposedly hits lower. Sundown is preferred but soundqubed is cheaper usually. I think these are 12's and they all cost close to $400 per sub now but if you want to see them in action: As mentioned above Down4sound is a good place to start they sell a lot of quality stuff. Ordered my crescendo amps from there. I also have heard good on SSA and I run FI audio subs.
  4. 11.5 net box or 11.5 gross? I would build between 6.5 - 8 net cubes Also, tuning down to 33 hz or so will give you a much smoother frequency response. Unless you just really want it to push 40 hz and up. I can't find specs online and for some reason can't open the attachment. What are you powering them with? How's your electrical? What kind of vehicle is it going in and which direction do the subs and port currently face?
  5. Mmmm, that's a tight squeeze. Recommended box size is around 2 sq ft net per sub. With your dimensions did you leave room to the trunk lid? I would normally fire sub and port to the rear but with your dimensions it may not leave enough room for the sound to travel back around the box. In that case are you opposed to folding down the rear seats for maximum output and facing subs forward? then you could use all of your trunk. With 3/4 inch ply before displacements you have 5.56 cubic feet inside the box. which doesn't leave much for port and sub displacement. I recently built a box for one of these subs at 2 cubes net tuned to 33 hz with a slot that was 16 square inches per cubic foot of box size. So 32 sq inches of port. Box sounds very nice and hits cleanly down to the lowest bass notes on any of my rap songs. These subs dont "punch" as hard or quick as some, but overall I am pleased for the price. Powered by 1700 watt NVX. PS I highly recommend looking into a Kicker Keyloc. It helped bring back everything below 40 hz that my LCI Pro 2 did not with factory head unit in a bose system. Anywho. My quick mock up using every square inch of the dimensions you gave would be 33 wide, 13 high, 28 deep including double baffle (good luck getting the box in and out) Port 5" wide x 11.5 inches tall 28 inches long according to my calculator this gives you close to cubic 1.9 cubes per sub after sub displacements tuned very close to 33 hz with 15 sq inches of port per cube. This puts you right on the border of the port being to small for that power. At 2000 watts WiniSD says your port velocity will be 29 m/s which i believe you're supposed to be under 30 m/s Do i think this box will fit in through the trunk opening. No Could you make sacrifices and squeeze them in. Probably Personally i would trade in those 2 12s for one that can handle 4000 watts and build the appropriate box for it. This is coming from someone that enjoys this sub. I am in no way an expert or a professional. I have built and calculated a few more than a handful of boxes and have had good results. I continue to learn every day and only have access to free calculators. If someone else has any ideas or changes to what i said please add/correct. My calculations are not perfect because my calculator is weird when it comes to the common walls of a port. Ps there's people on here and other forums that I guarantee can design a box that's better than what i just came up with, but they're not always free. Also, some basics on port design. General beginners rule of thumb is 14-16 square inches of port size per cubic foot of box size, so a 4x4 port would work in a 1 cubic foot box (not a perfect rule) Longer ports lower your tuning, shorter ports will raise your tuning Larger boxes lower your tuning, Smaller box will raise your tuning A lot of people recommend tuning between 31 and 33 hz from what I've seen. Cheers.
  6. Hi @Marchant89 Not sure if this will help but just thought I'd share my numbers. I think the numbers you're hitting are already pretty good. I have an envoy with four 15" Fi btl 4's with two crescendo 6ks and 4 xs power d 3400s from one singer 390 tuned to 33 hz with roughly 3.8 net per sub and my numbers are (sealed doors and windows with spl mini meter v2 on passenger bottom windshield) 137.5 Db @ 20 hz 145.9 Db @ 25 Hz 148.1 Db @ 35 Hz 150.1 Db @ 40 Hz 150.5 Db at 45 Hz All of these numbers raise by about 2 Db when I open the driver's door I would say your system is already more efficient than mine with half power and less cone area. Let me know if you do hit 150 Db Cuz then I'll need advice from you! I haven't attempted any of these but perhaps this will help your endeavors if you haven't stumbled across this already I can add or send you photos of my build but the attachments seem large on this forum and I didn't want to clog up your thread. Almost forgot those numbers are after i inverted the subs to try to raise my box size. I did not test numbers before but it sounded louder by ear after i inverted them. Placebo?
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