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djdilliodon

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  1. Shipping would be $75 insured via fedex but it could be lower or a little higher depending on the dimensions you want. What dimensions do you have to work with?
  2. I could do it but it’s a 4 hour drive to come pick it up lol.
  3. Are you positive it’s not the subs making the noise? Did you round the edges of each piece of the port inside the box? Any pics of the box at all?
  4. pretty much true, if you can fit an enclosure around it, it still is gonna be nasty down low! I personally would give it 3.5 cubes net sealed min. If you want to go smaller than you listed, do the 20” on the 18” dimension you listed, keep the 14” on depth and take away from the 30” dimension. 2k rms is all that is needed! These things aren’t built with multilayer nomex spider packs (super stiff). They used 2 layer poly cotton spiders (soft but be aware these wear out in time) so they are pretty efficient subs for the amount of power they can handle and xmax they have. With 6-9k rms you got a ton of headroom .
  5. if it’s a 5200, no need to go ported, small sealed is all that would be needed and it will be flexing everything playing 20 hz . For power you will need 1500w rms minimum (2000 rms is ideal, more for added headroom won’t hurt just use common sense). With the dimensions you have, that 18” dimension I assume is where the sub will mount to? If so I’d try to make it at least 19” or ideally 20”. The space you have available is more than enough sealed for a 5200. Ideally you want the sub to face back but if you must face it up, it is what it is, it’s still gonna be sweet!
  6. Tc sounds was a great company but unfortunately Milo wasn’t the best when it came to finances lol. Would have to see a pic of the sub in order to see if anything jumps out to give a clue as to what it is. One thing I can say is when you get it, push on the cone and feel how stiff it is. Many of the tc sounds subs ran suspensions on the loose side which made them amazing in sealed enclosures and allowed them to hit low notes with pure violence! If it feels this way ported will most likely not be well suited unless you tune it low. Pulling TS specs would be the ideal way to go, klipple charges about $200 per driver plus the shipping to and back from them. I’d do it for you free plus return shipping but currently am doing way too many custom sub builds (spl geared 15’s) at this time plus building a demo car as well.
  7. Those subs are made by Jiaxing Jinlida Electron in China. Most of the decent subwoofer offerings these days are made by them, Dentaly Electronics, or Ningbo factory all located in China. Brands that come to mind that use these factories include but are not limited to are deaf bonce, massive, American bass, ct sounds, ground zero, DD, genius, skar, sundown, and the list goes on. For what they sell these for its not a bad deal at all. Is there better? Absolutely but for an 18” it will definitely cost more. Stick to the rated power and avoid clipping and they should last you a long time.
  8. Blocking the pole vent can lower the ability to cool the voice coil. If you are trying to shrink volume so tuning frequency will drop, you are better off gluing some small wood blocks to the sides, filling the sides with a fast set epoxy resins etc.
  9. yes but he said he has 2 10’s lol
  10. lower the ohm on the coils, the larger the diameter of the wire. Every motor will have a sweet spot. For example if a motor has a gap size of say 3.5” and you want to run a coil that is 3.46” OD in 8 layers, at a certain point you won’t be able to fit the 8 layers. You can offset this in certain ways by doing 2+2+2+2 on the layers instead of say of doing 4+4 on the layers. The lower the ohm of the coil, the more power it can “potentially” handle.
  11. 4 8’s will have more cone area so they should be louder.
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