jgi420

Yeah, I might do that. So people can get an idea. I could have bought different stuff I like being different. Having different things than other people usually. I just decided I guess the skar stuff seemed reasonable first I got the subs then I tried the amp skar doesn't seem too bad for the money. One audio shop sells sundown stuff and I'm sure they would have liked to have sold me some of that but it was going to be expensive. I asked about a box and they pretty much said they could build me one if I wanted but it would take months they were backed up with work and who knows what it would have cost, but they didn't seem to have anything that would have been 32 Hertz or lower. Probably the standard 39 to 40 Hertz prefab boxes typical I believe that's what they said so I didn't want to end up getting the same thing as before would have been no benefit or gain.

Okay so I went and I tuned everything and dialed in the new amp and it seems like it's somewhat louder than the previous setup. I guess I can't really complain. I mean what do you expect with box ride and everything you know Like you said, you know you would need massive amount of power in order to reach my goal I could have spent five or $600 and maybe I would have gotten close to a realistic number. That was rms level power. One thing that I noticed is on the last amp. It only had one input so technically you could only hook up one RCA so I thought it would be a good idea to get a y adapter and hook that up. Now I hooked that up thinking that maybe I might have only getting half the power which could have been part of my problem not getting as loud. Well I did that and it seemed like nothing changed. Little did I know because of only one input on the amp. I also disconnected one of the wires from the back of the radio so I wouldn't get any extra noise, ground noise or anything I figured. So now I was not using both RCAs still. So I never got to see what the system would have done with both RCAs hooked up. But I mean, I've always been under the impression that subwoofers put out mono sound and you don't need stereo sound to go into them. A mono signal is what you want I always thought but I could be mistaken. You might lose output with less signal so I guess it would have been interesting to have tried the old amp with both pre outs coming out of the deck going into the y splitter then into the amp. Maybe you could chime in if you know anything about that Like I said in the old days it didn't seem to make much of a difference on an amp if you used left and right or just left or say right instead of a stereo signal The amps seem to play just as loud but on the newest stuff that's coming out maybe it does make a difference. One thing that I did notice when I first hooked the amp up the power was on it seemed like but I didn't hear hardly any audio so I assumed something was wrong right from the factory. I was scratching my head for a couple of minutes yesterday then I unplugged one of the RCAs from the amp and it seemed like I noticed I heard music that was real deep like something was coming out of my subs but not very loud. Then I plugged both cables back in. Didn't seem to hear anything. I'm scratching my head again. I'm going What the heck is going on here. That's when I pulled my deck out of the dash and noticed one of the RCAs was unplugged from the radio. Once I made sure both were plugged in going all the way to the back of the car that's when the subs started hitting. Crazy how something simple like one RCA being unplugged can cause a problem and you have almost no sound. Even though I now had sound, it did not seem like the system was that loud which is why I made the previous post because I didn't think the system sounded much different than on the old amp. However, once I started to tune everything and I set the subsonic filter and the low pass filter, everything started sounding loud and deep. One thing I noticed on this skar amp Is that it appears like when you turn the gain all the way up that's 0.2 on this amp. I didn't notice a voltage number on the previous amp so I had no idea the proper voltage to adjust it to. Seems like on this new amp I was able to turn the gain level almost all the way to the right as far as it would go and the system sounds good doesn't seem to have a problem It's currently a little below max. I plan on doing a little more fine tuning so I don't damage the amp or the speakers. I could be overdriving everything. The last amp had a clip light so it made it easy to tell what was going on. So I appreciate some of the advice a few of you have given me on here. This is a great resource that Steve provides to allow people to be able to get help on fine tuning car audio without damaging equipment and making sure that folks do things right, I am sure that a lot of vehicle fires have been prevented by people giving sound advice on here. I'm well aware that people will say anything. Some people know nothing about electrical, current or physics or anything like that so definitely have to be careful. I definitely don't have to do anything more I think my stereo is loud enough and I shouldn't have to purchase a bigger amp. I think everything is loud enough the way it is. I am having no problems my electrical system is up to par My battery came with the car when I bought it. Don't really know how old it is. Probably 5 years old for all I know but it still works just fine. Holds plenty of juice. The alt has no problem keeping it charged fully and my car starts up every time even in 20 below weather it has never failed me. The terminals on the amp for the power and ground seem like they are big but so far everything seems to be working just fine on 4 gauge power and ground I don't think they'll be a problem. I am pleased that I did not have spend a bunch of extra money and upgrade cables and run a bunch of new wires glad that I oversized everything which left room for expansion. Not just anybody can hook up wires and install electronics vehicles you have to be careful what you're doing and make sure you don't drill holes in the wrong areas and create shorts and stuff like that. A lot of good information on sites like this and some bad information. If I can somehow upload a video to this site of the system with music playing, I will try

Well okay so I finally received my package today. I hooked everything up everything's working like it's supposed to, however I don't notice a huge improvement over the last amp I have adjusted the subsonic filter. I left the low pass filter off and I didn't put on any bass boost started off with the game low then I went and turned it up I got it at about 80% near its max level and The output isn't much different than the last one it seems also realized the fuse that I had in the back was a 125 amp. So it was nowhere near a 60 Miss new amp. It's raining for 200 amp fuse but it's not pulling anywhere near that seems to have big terminals for zero or two gauge does not seem like it needs that works great on four gauge. That's too bad I guess should have probably spent more money and got something different now this is two times that I spent a little over $200 and now I've got two amps that sound about the same.

No, I just picked up the skar rp2000d hopefully that's an improvement

I have a cheap clamp meter. I've tried it a few times. I have tried to measure the amps. I have used a voltmeter too. It seems like no matter what I do I don't get that high of a reading if any at all. On the clamp meter I was clamping the power wire going to the amp. Then I read somewhere you're supposed to clamp the positive wire of the speaker terminal coming off the amp so I try that did not see much of a reading doing that either. It was really odd It was like I saw only five or six amps once again though I know nothing about clamp meters. I just picked up a cheap one I don't know exactly what I'm supposed to be measuring to be honest I am not sure if what you want is a DC clamp meter and the problem is the meter that I have only does AC? Also when I ran the test I had the volume up about as high as I can go cleanly seemed like according to the math I might have been getting around 2ohms which clearly you're not going to see full power I would be getting less then what the box says which makes sense I did not consider this when purchasing the new amp. So if any of my numbers are even correct and I did any math right hopefully I should still be able to get at least 500 watts to each subwoofer RMS I'm pretty sure I have the right clamp meter. It's just a cheap one. It doesn't really say true RMS or anything just a hobo freight one clearly I didn't use test tones I just played music we will have to see what happens when I install the new amp. Another guy he had a smart 3 amp 3k and from what his tests showed, it didn't pull much more than a little over 40 amps even with test tones playing so maybe I'm too concerned with amps will let everyone know how it goes with the new amp and see if I can do some more tests appropriately and figure out what the new setup is doing for power

Okay man, good to know. I was starting to get a little concerned because you know, usually when the ohms increase the usable power is cut. So yeah, I think that's the general consensus. I don't have enough power in the first place coming out of the amplifier I should easily be able to figure out something I will see what I can find my price range and install it

I have already done several upgrades. I have an aftermarket alternator already. I've done the big three I shouldn't have to do anymore aside from adding a second battery. I kind of figured out what the problem is. Looks like I am getting a rise of 22 23 ohms When I play music so the amplifier that I have can't possibly put out any power with a box rise like that I don't understand what's going on because I don't know anything about box rise I believe it's called when you measure the ohms of My speakers with no music playing and the power off. It displays the proper one ohm reading coming out of the box but as soon as you start playing music it rises the 22 to 23 ohms how do I fix this?

So what could be going on here? The dyno testing in a few videos they show the amplifier putting out wattage yet when I clamp the amp it doesn't seem like it is sending more than 30 amps to the amplifier Is it possible for an amplifier to display wattage numbers that don't coincide with amperage. Like how is it possible that an amp will put out say 1,000 watts but only draw 30 amps well going by somebody else's dyno anyways.

So if I were to go with a skar audio rp1500 I should get a lot more power than I'm receiving now? Crazy how a company could charge $200 for bogus power at least give the consumer 700w rms It's like I'm not even getting that. I guess I suppose I mean on the website of the company they don't even list a fuse size or mention RMS power. So you could kind of assume 1500 watt is peak power but it's like they don't even give you half that clearly says on the website 1500w RMS at one ohm 750 watt RMS at 2 ohm crazy inflation

Yeah thanks man. I appreciate the support. I mean I clearly didn't pay attention when trying to set up a system. I did all the wiring correctly and got the aftermarket alternator and everything but I didn't realize What I already should have known about true power and the claims of it from different companies from the previous systems. I seem to always overbuild my car's electrical which most of the time is unnecessary for the stuff I end up being stuck with because I don't follow through with due diligence. Beef up your electrical system then cheap out on amplifiers I don't know why I guess I try to be one step ahead of the game and over build everything for future upgrades. I appreciate the advice. I'm going to look for a better amp in the future when my budget allows me to. Is the taramps smart 3 3000k amplifier any good? Would that be something to look into as far as budget friendly and enough power

Correct. That seems kind of odd. It seems like the power acoustik 2500D that I had before from Walmart was putting out just as much power as the amp that I have now which doesn't seem to make sense. I had the NVX XAD 11 before which was supposed to be 700w I was probably getting a lot less with that amplifier. I figured when I upgraded to the XAD12 I'd be putting out a lot more power. I guess in the car audio game it's pretty easy to be misled if you're not careful I saw some of the reviews they make it look like it's doing the amount of watts that it says that it's doing but it doesn't seem like it I see you in a couple video reviews on YouTube. Of course what I was seeing was probably not music being played through the system probably raw peak power on the bench which is different than musical amperage I get that. I kind of figured something was up when I didn't really need to upgrade my fuse from the last amplifier everything seemed to play fine. I guess I'll have to look into getting a different amp I guess you really have to pay attention when you're reading reviews or watching them on YouTube most people don't play the music through the system and then clamp them so you can actually see what the musical power is.

PXL_20240118_221218529.TS~2.mp4 So I put the clamp meter on Cranked the volume up Got it to around 21 volume before the clip light started to go on and off Just barely kicking on seemed like the amount of amps being pulled was maybe 26 or 28 at most. That doesn't seem like a lot of power for a 1,500 watt amp also checked the resistance seems like it's wired correctly I wired it to one ohm I am seeing one ohm coming out of the box when I check the wires. I guess everything is fairly normal this amp is doing what it's supposed to do on these speakers. Not pulling anywhere near 60 amps so I don't have to go any bigger on the fuse. Everything seems to be working in harmony I don't know why a lot of people over inflate power requirements on things.

I would be a little concerned about something that cheap making those kind of claims. Even if it sounds like a good brand you will probably find out It's closest to putting out 200 watts

What my goal was is to be able to hopefully get a 3000 watt monoblock amp and be able to push these woofers at the RMS power. I double checked my fuse and it's blue. It's a 60 amp fuse so I got a 60 amp fuse running to my amp and it doesn't have any problems, so it seems kind of odd that the amp that I'm running would be putting out 1,500 watts. If my system isn't even pulling 60 amps out of the subwoofer amplifier then I don't see any reason why I couldn't buy a 3000 watt version of the same amp and get it to run. I have seen a few videos and stuff and ransom numbers but the math doesn't really compute. That's what's confusing. I mean maybe when you're using the SMD meters and stuff that's going by raw power and not actual music power musical power is different I would assume. I don't see how in one of these videos a guy is claiming he's pulling 165 amps out yet. I don't seem to be pulling anywhere near that. Not trying to sound stupid here or drag the topic out but it would seem like I should be able to upgrade my amplifier and my electrical would be capable of producing enough power safely to run the vehicle and a new amp. All in all, I don't seem to notice any problems with the enclosure. It's put together well. The d4s is a pretty good enclosure for the money I don't think I'll have any problems in the future I put it together myself and I made sure, it was solid. I think the kits they sell are pretty good

Well I mean on almost any enclosure. There's a chance that it will leak air the last MDF enclosure I had well the last three of them the screws all came loose from the subs. I had to turn them facing upward because they wanted to fall out of the box after a short period of time and I pre-drilled pilot holes. Even before I installed the subs I even had to move them around to three different places in almost every box I had. So there is a general concern that even a Birchwood cabinet can still rattle loose or leak air If you put too much power through it. Either way, I'm not running the full amount of RMS the speakers can handle. And the subwoofer amp only has an 80 amp fuse and it has not blown yet I thought that a 1500 watt amp would draw at least 85 amps so I find that a little odd.

Well I sort of tuned the amp today the system sounds better I set the subsonic filter to around 25 hz and it seems like the system got louder maybe some more decimals I'm not sure 100% but I can tell by ear it sounds a little better now that I set the subsonic filter correctly. The amp clips at about the same amount of gain as on the previous subs It actually seems like I cannot go as high on the volume. I had clipping with the gain turned up about 75% and the volume on the head unit around 24 now it seems like when I set the gain level from halfway back to 75% I could only turn my head unit up to around 21 volume and I noticed the clip light come on. Seems like pretty close to around the same amount of volume as before and you get clip. Now overall the new subs and the box sound different cleaner, tighter, low end bass it seems like can't really tell If cutting the piece of carpet out of the middle of the trunk deck improved the sound of the vehicle because now I'm using the new box and the new speakers did not try the old subs in the old box before I got rid of them also I had them facing upward I got the new box facing the back of the trunk which people say will improve the sound. From what I can tell, it seems like once I adjusted the subsonic filter on the amp I noticed the most improvement. What I am trying to determine currently is how high of volume you can play the head unit without distortion seems like the volume maxes out at 34 or 5 I believe. Seems like with this amp and the head unit I can turn the volume up to around 21 or 22 with the gain on the amp at halfway and I get no clipping. I was planning to get a newer amp closer to the RMS of the subs eventually hopefully the box wouldn't blow apart one person on YouTube said 2000 watts at most for this type of box and another person said they had two 2500 w subs running with no problems. The set up sounds okay all in all not much louder but cleaner lower bass. I was hoping to get a bigger amp but it doesn't sound like it's possible to run these subs at RMS power. I only have a 240 amp alternator and I probably need 100 amp for the vehicle I am probably close to the limit. So far no fuses are blowing or anything.

I was just wondering if anyone happens to know how high you can go on the volume with the cheaper Alpine head unit I know it's only $100 head unit but I am trying to adjust my amps more specifically my sub amp to get the game at the right level but I am unsure how high of volume I can turn the head unit up to without introducing added distortion. I also have a door speaker amp which I did not adjust to any frequencies or anything I pretty much Just adjusted the gain to where I think it would work without producing its own distortion. And I never really go past 20 or 21 volume on the head unit. It seemed like at around 25 or 6 volume the door speakers sounded crap I believe this was without an amplifier and with an amplifier. I believe the results are similar if I remember correctly. I would imagine it would be a little harder to tell because I'm running two amps so the door speaker amp might produce distortion at a certain volume which could be a limiting factor so I know it won't be perfect to get both amps even but I would like to get the system fairly close so I can turn up the volume and both amplifiers produce fairly clean audio. I mean I don't think the radio sounds horrible for what it is, but it's possible that the song you produces is really horrible compared to other units, but I don't know much about head units these days. I'm not an expert and I don't do a lot of testing on them. I have heard that pioneers put out 25 watts of RMS usually by four channels at four ohms even the cheaper units compared to something like this Alpine.

Okay, thanks for the information I wasn't sure on that. So yeah I'll keep that in mind for future reference

Now I'm not sure how's this works but a lot of new amplifiers have clip lights now I guess my question is If a speaker or a subwoofer is being overpowered does the clip light come on or does it only come on due to distortion. Are these new amps capable of sensing when a speaker is being overpowered to help prevent you from blowing them up. I know in the old days amps had protection lights which would come on if the amp was overheating or something. Now I know that's different. But has car audio really evolved to the point where the clip light could be an indicator of a system being overpowered. I'm just wondering and the reason why I asked because I recently upgraded to newer more powerful speakers and a better box and I'm just wondering if my amp is going to clip at the same level of gain? I just hooked everything up and got it installed and I have not adjusted anything or ran any test tones yet. So I was kind of just wondering if I was going to be able to adjust the gain higher or lower. I'm kind of curious if I was not getting to use the full power of the amp with my previous setup.

Well I completed the project of building the box. I am almost upgraded. I have to install the subs tomorrow and I got the box mostly together and solid and everything seemed to line up pretty good. I don't think anything will rattle loose I'll attach a picture. All in all, the flat pack went together pretty smooth. You got a couple of factory pre-drilled holes that get in the way other screw holes which are on the corners where they meet. So you pretty much have to drill your own hole off to the side a little so it doesn't intersect with another screw from a different side of the box. Also, there was a review on the flat pack box kit where someone said that most standard subs wouldn't fit into the holes that were pre-cut that you would have to trim. While I can assure everybody that the EVLs fit in perfect, no cutting required or extra fitting. The guy in the video might have had an off-size sub or they remedy the problem and revised the kit from the factory. Also, countersinking is important pre-drilling holes along with the pre drilled holes that they have because they don't go deep enough into the other piece of wood they did not add holes to the side pieces . Can't stress that if anyone's trying to put a box together. If you don't pre-drill the holes to completion, you will crack the wood. I managed to only crack two areas with a screw because I forgot to pre-drill one hole and the other hole it missed because when you install the port when you put the top over the box and screw that down you can't see the l shape of the port that good so it's harder to line up the screw holes. You want to measure, check then remeasure double check. Make sure any hole that you're going to drill is lined up in the right spot so you don't have that problem You want to avoid any cracking. I could have just glued all the joints together but I also used screws. For this kit you probably want to use a #8 1-1/2 flat head Phillips screw The one I used was from the typical big box hardware store and it was zinc coated I ended up getting a box of 100 because that's all they had and that size they didn't have a box of 50 but you need at least a box of 50 of these. Now all is that's left for me to do is to get some ring terminals for the speaker wires and to install the speaker box terminal to the side of it. Then I just have to install the subs which I got number 10 screws for that and I got 1 and 1/2 and also 1 in. I think one inch seems more appropriate and not too long so I am going to use those to secure the subs panhead Phillips sheet metal those are also, zinc coated. Can't wait to see how they sound tomorrow. I also have to cut a hole in the upper trunk deck to let some air out into the cabin

Well man I have a Birchwood box now. I just need advice to trying to get everything tight. I have to put the box together myself but I want to make sure it doesn't come apart I plan to glue it together and screw it down with some screws. Number 8 2-in screws and I got the fancy wood glue. The only thing I don't understand is the plans for the box which is a flat pack kit kind of a show when the images what looks like pieces of molding that appear to go into the corners probably for extra stability and strength. However, the kid didn't come with any. Now should I be going out and getting some type of bracing? Whatever I can find at the local store possibly pine trim and gluing it to the corners for extra support or is that not really needed. I wonder if that would ruin the sound quality of the Birchwood by adding a couple strips of pine to the mix or whatever they sell at the local hardware store to the corners like the image shows Or is the difference neglible because it's just a couple of strips. As you can see from the schematic in the image, it looks like small pieces of trim go in the corners for extra support of the box Also wondering if at the very least I should add some silicone caulking in all the seams in the inside corners before I seal it up

Thanks brother. I appreciate your information and help you seem to have experience. I hope my experience goes well. I'm getting older now so I might not invest in too many more systems. I might get out of it one day but for now, I hope my sound quality experience increases over the cheaper and low quality woofers I used to have. Don't get me wrong the previous setup was pretty loud still but I figure I should be able to have double the power now. I'm waiting for the stuff in the mail and I will update once I get everything set up.

I was going to cut that round hole out and let the air go through that to the cabin and put a screen over it. So I did some research and i ended up going with the standard 12 inch subs like I've already had and I decided to go with the EVL so two dual 4. Ohm voice coil EVL 12s now I figure they should put out double the power clean then the last setup they say 1250w RMS. The only thing that I don't like about skar and their sales tactics is the fact that every single time I went to their website they were advertising that there was a sale acting like they have a deal going on every single day the counter says the same thing so it doesn't seem like the price has changed for 5 years on the same speaker. Don't know if the quality has increased or if they have changed anything around for an improvement that I know nothing about. If you go to Amazon or eBay they have the same speaker for the same exact price as it claims to be on the skar website and this is pretty much every day no, I don't know if that's something that all audio shops and places do whether online or not. If they decide to sell the brand, does the company tell them to charge the same rate and then just give them a discount of 10% or something for buying in bulk because it would seem to me that you would have to charge more than the manufacturer in order to make a profit just something I've been thinking about Also went with a Birchwood cabinet that I will be putting together myself now it's not quite the setup that The guy with the custom Vicks does, but I figure air should still escape and it will sound a lot louder than previously. And the trunk will be able to breathe which hopefully less rattling. As far as the amp, I have not upgraded yet, but my plan is to get a 2400 watt RMS monoblock at some point I figure right now the 1500 should be enough during the break-in to play the speakers without really damaging them. The only thing I'm unsure of about the birch kit is the fact that the hole might not be cut exactly so I might have to trim. But I figure real Birchwood should be far superior to the a trend. MDF that's out there and I shouldn't have any problems with The woofers rattling loose or the screws becoming loose that hold them down

What do you mean blow through

Okay so I got a 2008 Grand Marquis. I was thinking about upgrading from 12 to 15s for my subwoofers. Now what I have already sounds fairly loud but I'd have much deeper base and more low. Obviously with 15 I could easily fit them in the trunk I would say. So I'm trying to figure out something that is budget friendly that will pound now. The amp have is a 1 ohm monoblock amp which is supposed to be 1500 w RMS. I actually have two brand new dual voice coil subwoofers in a box that are 12 in. really nothing wrong with My current setup but 15s seem to pound more and have deeper base and I figure 2 15s should be louder than 2 12s. Now I understand. I'm going to need a box along with subwoofers so maybe a loaded enclosure would be good. Now I am not really concerned with the hz of the box at this time because I know it is going to be expensive If I were to chase down a 32 Hertz box for 15-in woofers and I don't really have 100% carpenter skills to be able to build one that was tuned myself for cheap. I'm sure I could build a regular enclosure but I don't know anything about tuning. Now obviously I'd like to have a 32 Hertz dual 15-in box that's ported. That would be the key for a good sounding setup, but right now I believe The box I have is tuned at 39 Hertz and the system sounds decent but leave something to be desired. So I guess if anyone has any suggestions or knows of anything reasonably priced that I could get as far as subwoofers that sound decent. I currently have volfvenhag which at the time when they were made most likely where unknown budget friendly high powered competition type subs now I'm not saying that the brand was JL quality. But as most of you know some of them were made really well and were at beast of a sub heavy plenty of xmax now like I said there is nothing wrong with my setup. My speaker is not blown they are just extremely old but if I could find something that is budget friendly like they were the time I would probably consider. Now if I could get a reasonable setup that comes with two 15s in a box I might just go that route. But the way I figure it most of the time it seems like with car audio you can get a reasonably priced mid-range pair of subs and a box fairly cheap and install them yourself because a lot of times what you'll see is that the loaded enclosure comes with a cheap basic bottom of the barrel box which is no different then just buying a cheap enclosure yourself and installing subs into it. I mean if you look online at a lot of the sites and places that sell subwoofer boxes, most of them look exactly the same but have different names slapped on them and they are all tuned around the same. My current setup is ported as you can see from the attached picture But the boxes rather flimsy. You know it's just a typical cheapo a trend standard ported box that is all over the internet and sold on the many different names made with the cheap particle board like material and If you ever heard of or seeing the old school subs that I have. They are fairly heavy so you can't really turn the box sideways because they will blow right out of the box in no time and be falling out of it. So that's why I have it facing upwards. But it still seems like they've gotten loose from the box already and it's only three or four months old. I've already replaced the box three times for those same subs. One time I had a cerwin Vega 18-in concert speaker that I hooked up in the back of a Jeep and it seemed like it slammed thing was hooked up with a guitar phono looking type cord clearly not much power could go through that wire. But I remember it sounding pretty good for what it was for just one speaker. Now I seen another guy and he had two 15-in subwoofers in the back of a suburban and it seem like they were loud and I asked the guy a little bit about his setup and he basically said he had two batteries and a stock alternator He claimed his vehicle at a recent competition did 140 db which who really knows people bullshit. I would like to think that my car could probably produce the same, but I have no way to really measure or a test without going to an audio shop or entering a competition. So to recap the setup that I currently have It consists of a standard battery from Napa which came with the car a few years ago when I purchased it. Since then I have upgraded the stock alternator I've used several different alternators no need to get into all that I will just get straight to the point of the post the alternator I currently have is a custom built aftermarket 250 amp alternator I also have the big three done. I also have a door speaker amp So with the setup that I currently have, I highly doubt that I am exceeding any power limits. I should have plenty more power to make use of If I wanted to. Now the second set of subwoofers that I have which are brand new in the box are rated for 2500 Max watt 800 watt RMS each sub after purchasing them, I realized that the amount of power they can produce is not much more than the volfs had the opportunity at the time to purchase higher rated subs from the same brand but I didn't want to spend too much money I just kind of saw something and bought it so I probably won't use those ever and I'm just going to sell those. Now clearly the most power each sub of my current setup could receive is around 750 watts a piece so obviously we would want to probably double that say around 1500 watts a piece RMS. As we all know some people who don't know enough about stereo systems. They might see a better brand or a speaker that has claims of x amount of power and they think it is going to be better than what they have. Then they buy it and hook it up and you got maybe 100 watts extra power or they are reading the max rating or something stupid or they just come across the deal and purchase it kind of like what I saw at a store a few months ago. So I am well aware that I may only have a 1,500 watt amp currently, but I can always upgrade in the future once I purchase the subs and run it for a few months. I can probably get something like a 3000 watt mono block amp. Just kicking around ideas trying to see what's out there if I can do better than my current setup for a reasonable price