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jgi420

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Everything posted by jgi420

  1. Okay so I got a 2008 Grand Marquis. I was thinking about upgrading from 12 to 15s for my subwoofers. Now what I have already sounds fairly loud but I'd have much deeper base and more low. Obviously with 15 I could easily fit them in the trunk I would say. So I'm trying to figure out something that is budget friendly that will pound now. The amp have is a 1 ohm monoblock amp which is supposed to be 1500 w RMS. I actually have two brand new dual voice coil subwoofers in a box that are 12 in. really nothing wrong with My current setup but 15s seem to pound more and have deeper base and I figure 2 15s should be louder than 2 12s. Now I understand. I'm going to need a box along with subwoofers so maybe a loaded enclosure would be good. Now I am not really concerned with the hz of the box at this time because I know it is going to be expensive If I were to chase down a 32 Hertz box for 15-in woofers and I don't really have 100% carpenter skills to be able to build one that was tuned myself for cheap. I'm sure I could build a regular enclosure but I don't know anything about tuning. Now obviously I'd like to have a 32 Hertz dual 15-in box that's ported. That would be the key for a good sounding setup, but right now I believe The box I have is tuned at 39 Hertz and the system sounds decent but leave something to be desired. So I guess if anyone has any suggestions or knows of anything reasonably priced that I could get as far as subwoofers that sound decent. I currently have volfvenhag which at the time when they were made most likely where unknown budget friendly high powered competition type subs now I'm not saying that the brand was JL quality. But as most of you know some of them were made really well and were at beast of a sub heavy plenty of xmax now like I said there is nothing wrong with my setup. My speaker is not blown they are just extremely old but if I could find something that is budget friendly like they were the time I would probably consider. Now if I could get a reasonable setup that comes with two 15s in a box I might just go that route. But the way I figure it most of the time it seems like with car audio you can get a reasonably priced mid-range pair of subs and a box fairly cheap and install them yourself because a lot of times what you'll see is that the loaded enclosure comes with a cheap basic bottom of the barrel box which is no different then just buying a cheap enclosure yourself and installing subs into it. I mean if you look online at a lot of the sites and places that sell subwoofer boxes, most of them look exactly the same but have different names slapped on them and they are all tuned around the same. My current setup is ported as you can see from the attached picture But the boxes rather flimsy. You know it's just a typical cheapo a trend standard ported box that is all over the internet and sold on the many different names made with the cheap particle board like material and If you ever heard of or seeing the old school subs that I have. They are fairly heavy so you can't really turn the box sideways because they will blow right out of the box in no time and be falling out of it. So that's why I have it facing upwards. But it still seems like they've gotten loose from the box already and it's only three or four months old. I've already replaced the box three times for those same subs. One time I had a cerwin Vega 18-in concert speaker that I hooked up in the back of a Jeep and it seemed like it slammed thing was hooked up with a guitar phono looking type cord clearly not much power could go through that wire. But I remember it sounding pretty good for what it was for just one speaker. Now I seen another guy and he had two 15-in subwoofers in the back of a suburban and it seem like they were loud and I asked the guy a little bit about his setup and he basically said he had two batteries and a stock alternator He claimed his vehicle at a recent competition did 140 db which who really knows people bullshit. I would like to think that my car could probably produce the same, but I have no way to really measure or a test without going to an audio shop or entering a competition. So to recap the setup that I currently have It consists of a standard battery from Napa which came with the car a few years ago when I purchased it. Since then I have upgraded the stock alternator I've used several different alternators no need to get into all that I will just get straight to the point of the post the alternator I currently have is a custom built aftermarket 250 amp alternator I also have the big three done. I also have a door speaker amp So with the setup that I currently have, I highly doubt that I am exceeding any power limits. I should have plenty more power to make use of If I wanted to. Now the second set of subwoofers that I have which are brand new in the box are rated for 2500 Max watt 800 watt RMS each sub after purchasing them, I realized that the amount of power they can produce is not much more than the volfs had the opportunity at the time to purchase higher rated subs from the same brand but I didn't want to spend too much money I just kind of saw something and bought it so I probably won't use those ever and I'm just going to sell those. Now clearly the most power each sub of my current setup could receive is around 750 watts a piece so obviously we would want to probably double that say around 1500 watts a piece RMS. As we all know some people who don't know enough about stereo systems. They might see a better brand or a speaker that has claims of x amount of power and they think it is going to be better than what they have. Then they buy it and hook it up and you got maybe 100 watts extra power or they are reading the max rating or something stupid or they just come across the deal and purchase it kind of like what I saw at a store a few months ago. So I am well aware that I may only have a 1,500 watt amp currently, but I can always upgrade in the future once I purchase the subs and run it for a few months. I can probably get something like a 3000 watt mono block amp. Just kicking around ideas trying to see what's out there if I can do better than my current setup for a reasonable price
  2. Well, I don't think that that amp is going to pull anywhere close to 550 amps. But if that's your thinking then yeah you need the proper fusing you don't split the fuse in half or anything. You use the appropriate fuse for the wire size and if you add another wire which is the same size, you need the same size fuse. If you are going to exceed the rating of the wire then you need a thicker wire. You say that you are going to add a second battery in the rear and you want to want to wire to that. So you run the thicker wire all the way from the front to the back battery then If you are only doing a short run from the battery to the amp, you might be able to get away with a smaller wire for a short run. I run a 1600 watt monoblock and I run a door speaker amp which is about 400 watts RMS the main fuse that I use is 150 amps then I have a distribution block which is fused in the rear which has a couple smaller fuses. I don't seem to have any problems sure I could put a 250 amp or 300 amp fuse coming from the front of the vehicle but that's unnecessary I do not pull anywhere near that power. I don't think you're pulling more than 300 amps with that setup. The sub amp probably pulling 250. door speaker amp probably pulling 50 at most
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