Freudie1

Just spoke with Orion. Their "support" said without running the amps in bridged mode you can't run a single remote level control. When I asked "If I run the amps in bridged mode can I run each amp independently so that I can use one bass knob and NOT wire the speakers between the two amps?" his answer was "Hahaha...you can TRY!". Awesome. At this point IF I was going to go the multiple 3000.1 route I think my plan would be an inline rca signal attenuator before the two amps, run a bass knob per amp set wide open and then breakout the clipping leds to a custom display in the dash (this was the main reason I wanted one knob....clipping indicator.). Ridiculous that in 2024 this is something not built into the amps.

Need some insight from some of the more experienced members. The scenario: I have two Fi Audio Halycon 15"s (basically the Omegas with a few more tweaks). Based on the limited information they can handle at least 4500 watts. Current amp (still building the system): Orion HCCA 3000.1 dsplx Thoughts: Plan is/was to run the two subs wired at a final 1 ohm load (they are 1 ohm dvc subs). Problem is of course impedance rise. Modelling this in Winisd it will essentially rise to 2+ ohms around the tuning frequency of my enclosure (32 hz) resulting in less than desired power output (amp dynos and clamp videos show around 4800 watts at 1 ohm with a system voltage of 14.4-ish volts which is what I am limited to in my system). That's a bit underpowered for these beasts I think. Question: Thinking of adding a second 3000.1. dsplx and using one per sub. That would allow me to wire each sub to .5 ohms which with impedance rise would present about a 1.2 ohm load to each amplifier resulting in more power PER sub. Not totally sure about this option as I am already space constrained on the amp rack AND I would need a second lithium bank and quite a bit more power runs and blocks. Alternatively: COULD ditch the 3000.1 route and move up to the Orion 12500.1 dsplx. That would fit on the rack, might need to add a second lithium bank still, but same wire runs and blocks would work. Concern is once again impedance rise as with one amp and 2 subs I would still be left with a 1 ohm wiring configuration with rise moving the effective load to 2+ ohms. Also: IF I went the two amp route, how do you control the bass level without having to go with a bass knob per amp? In-line signal attenuator? THOUGHT about strapping the two 3000.1's since that would allow me to use one bass knob, BUT once again I keep coming back to the impedance dilemma and effective output. Help appreciated!

Appreciate the cross check. Was questioning using ports of such long length, but with a bend (yes using a pvc coupler/fitting) I believe I can make 4 fit if I design it with 2 ports per side and then angle them internally with the bends. "Rated power" is a mystery with these as they are one-offs from Fi and when I asked for specs they wrote "I’m sorry, but we never broke one in to pull good specs.". Best I can find is they are based on their older "Omega" line which MIGHT have been 4500 as they wrote "The power rating of 4500W is a base rating that in testing were simply could not hurt it in any way. This is not to say that this is its “rating”. " Joys of "limited edition/never going to make these again" subs I suppose.... At any rate...I am powering these two with a single Orion HCCA 3000.1 DSPLX (latest version) which going by the Williston video of that amp presenting a 1 ohm load (yes I know about impedance rise, but let's go with known #s here), he tested 4825 watts certified/1%thd and 7673 burst/dynamic....point being I think I am well under the "rated" combined 9000 watts (which once again is probably conservative at best based on Fi's cryptic commentary). Not chasing SPL #s here, just want a very fun daily enclosure (and I can't physically fit any larger sub amp at this point without ruining the cosmetics of the install in this truck).

Just wanted to run these calculations by some of the more seasoned enclosure builders. Scenario: 2 Fi Audio "Halcyon" 15"s. These are massive. I consulted with Fi and they recommended tuning to 32 Hz with 60 sq in of port area and 4 cu ft of enclosure (each). Running the #s I come up with: 8 cu ft box ( overall, I realize I have to account for displacement of the ports and the subs). 4 6" aero ports ( pi r 2 = 3.14 x 9 = 28.26 sq in per 6" port.....so 4 x 28.26 = 113 sq in of port area). While I realize this is LESS than the recommended 120 sq in of port by Fi, running the scenario through Triticum's spreadsheet it results in a minimum of 109 sq in of port required. Running the #s through the PSP aero port length calculator I come up with a length 33.81 inches per aero port. Since all car audio systems are an exercise in tradeoffs and compromise here are my questions: Am I correct in my math/calculations? In other words, I come up with need 4 6" aero ports at 33.81 inchs per port. Should I fret over the missing 7 sq inches (if I go with this plan of 4 6" ports) or should I consider adding a 5th 6" port? <--I'm running out of real estate which is why I'm hung up on 4 6" ports. Reading the forum, it looks like I can introduce a bend of 90 degrees or less in each port with no ill effects. True? Ideally I'd need close to a 90 bend in each port so I can make this fit (the box is going to be about 16" wide, subs will be "elevated" via the use of fiberglass to make this all fit firing up). Seems like my port lengths are VERY long, but then again this is a lot of cone area with a fairly low tuning frequency. Thoughts?