Jump to content

Brick2560

Members
  • Posts

    594
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Brick2560

  1. You know, that last line there isnt neccessary at all either. He no noob, he knows what hes talking about. He has a great point, re-coning them is pointless unless they're blown.

    But like everyone else said, Install is everything in getting loud. Port the box for the L7's, I'd bet money that you'd change your mind. Why spend 1000's of dollars for new equipment when a new box would cost you probably $150 or less.

  2. well shit, thats a big problem, cuz thats the biggest that box can be, raising the seats isnt an option and I've only got 7" to work with, so I'll be needing to find a different sub, any suggestions? I need it 10" and could handle 1000 RMS, at least thats what I'd like, I could handle a little less, so yeah, thats a bummer.

  3. Okay so the new car was a no-go (sorry for wasting everyone that helped me times)

    But now I'm back to working in a restricted area under the back seat of my pickup.

    I'm looking at a Fi SSD or a Q, I know the Q's are the sound quality subs of Fi, but I was wondering if anyone has worked with the SSD's

    also, I know the Fi subs can take alot more, as its rated at 800 RMS, could I run it off of a 1000 watt or even a 1200 watt amp safely?

    Oh, and for reference, I'm building a custom ported box that is 1.8 cuft., which is what Fi suggests for the ported enclosure on the website, but I'm wondering how much port area I should use, and also how to tune the box.

  4. Peak doesnt really mean anything, the RMS is what you should be paying attention to and thats also what you should run it at, but with that Fi sub you could probably run close to 1500 to it if set up correctly. but seeing as you're pretty new to car audio, I'd stick with running it at 1000 watts.

    Edit: got beat to it.

×
×
  • Create New...