Dr. Johnson
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Posts posted by Dr. Johnson
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I would definitely buy from Lower. They have a very strong reputation. Just so you know they really mark up the equipment. A high efficiency furnace and AC unit is most likely costing them $2000 or less. But they do install it provide warranty and service at a reasonable price.
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I love this I bet when you pulled up next to the guy with the 18's he was all cocky and stuff then you started and he sharted himself. then he got worried. lol I wanna see a vid of that guys face. Keep up the great work Thor it makes me smile seeing your updates.
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Blue dot is having a discount sale advertising 4200 bucks off. I do not know what brand but I think its York. What is the name of the HVAC Company? I used to work in the field. I have heard some bad things and some good about a few companies around that area.
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I think you can get 2.66 ohms and 1.33 ohms with 3 d4 subs.
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Thats more like it.
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I do not know; but look at the parts in bold and the price in his title. 16000 lol thats a ton for thatHe also says it has a 15" lift lol I do not think he knows what he is talking about. maybe hes high?
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http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1392780724.html
austin craigslist > for sale / wanted > cars & trucks - by owner please flag with care:
Avoid scams and fraud by dealing locally! Beware any deal involving Western Union, Moneygram, wire transfer, cashier check, money order, shipping, escrow, or any promise of transaction protection/certification/guarantee. More info
2001 lincoln town car cartier L 30's screens and more. - $16000 (near austin)
Date: 2009-09-25, 8:14PM CDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
///M5 or Sean from Sound solutions audio is a straight up Cocksucker and a pedophile!! lets cover the L part first ... this is not a normal town car.. not only is this car a cartier ( the top of the line) its an L the top of the top...
has headrest in the rear seats, with a/c and radio controls, heated seats in the rear and the front, its 6 inches longer in the rear seats.. you can really tell. also has drop mirrors. with lights.
everything works on this car....
extras,.
30 inch rims, 3 brand new tires, big boy brakes, slotted and ported, all the way around, lifted 15 inches, headrest screens, one drop screen and an indash.. i also have a seprate DVD player with a custom console that i run all the screens on inscluding the indash so i can play music while the tv's play. window visors so the rain wont come in. remote start alarm with tilt, moation, and shock sensors, and two way page. lincoln plate holders.250 amp high output alt. with 0 gauge wiring for + and - from the motor to the battery and to the frame.. 2 runs of 0 gauge wire ran to the rear.. and 0/1 ground to the frame in the rear.. set up to run 15 batteries.... trunk and doors have 5-10 layers of fatmat and the rest is rubber sprayed. CDT mid bass in the doors, with seas tweeters, i ran active front stage..... every light inside this car is LED.. so it has a real crisp clean look.. with custom LED's in the doors each with 320 leds in factory location. lights the ground up like a football feild! HID headlights. led licance and back up lights.air horns,smoked tail lights. VERY RARE wood gain dash kit chrome flying lady. and so very much more.......
new stuff!
lets see everything about this car is in pretty good shape.. i always take care of it as i used this car for SPL shows, and i needed it to make it any where i needed to go at any time! K&n air filter, always used royal purple oil.. new coils all new repays, new water pump, new thromstat belts ideler pully new tentioner pully, and belt,new Idel air sensor , new heater core, (1500) job, new tranny (2500) job new rear end with all seals, all pit man arms tie rods and such in the past year.new headlights, top and bottom grille if it hicuped i replaced it. this car is/was my baby.
this car is not perfect.. its just very nice. it has high milige but as you can see i took care of it very well.. and its a rare edition with TONS of custom parts and new parts... this car is a HEAD TURNER.. belive me i know.
i still have the full sticker from when it was new in 01 along with the sales agreement and the manual and the service guide all of that.
i love this car.. but im thinking about moving. i keep this car under 24 hour video bur where im moving its not possible... so my loss is your gain... but i will not GIVE this car away.
i will trade for a SUV like a excursion or a navigator but it has to be clean taken care of sum rims on it maybe too lets talk...
slab donk lincoln buick cadillac please dont flag me!.
///M5 or Sean from Sound solutions audio is a straight up Cocksucker and a pedophile!!
and please i dont wanna be rude... but i dont have alot of time for people who arent ready to buy a car... so please no tire kickers.. or hoopdreamers forsay
- Location: near austin
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PostingID: 1392780724
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LOL Thats funny
- Location: near austin
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So we are needing a new heating and A/C unit for our house. The unit we have is just over 20 years old and the tech that came out to service it last week said that the inside unit isn't even the same size as the outside unit (sorry, I know nothing about this stuff).
Anyway, the company that serviced it gave us a quote for $6500. That's for the new unit (a higher end model that qualifies for a tax credit), labor/installation and travel charges (they are about 45 miles away). He said that $6500 was probably the worst case scenario and that more than likely it would be less. We've used this company in the past to service our heating/air unit and to redo our plumbing when we remodeled the kitchen. They have always been reliable and provide quality work.
So I was wondering if we should just stick with this company or get a few other estimates? We live in a small town and the closest "big" city is 40-45 minutes away. There are two heating and cooling businesses that are local, but we've had very bad luck with both of them. Is there a "rule of thumb" when it comes to how many estimates you should get for something like this?
Dan
Is it an amana? Where in kansas do you live?
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DC 1000.1, Zed Audio Kronos, Sundown 1500D or 2000D. Those are what I would purchase for it.
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Are those your amps?
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Says its available now?? Huh I wonder what the deal is?
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I detect a hint of jealousy..... <--------- Sarcasm
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bumping and quoting your own thread. lol this has to be a new low.
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WTF is an spl coil?
Well When I bought them I told Mr Rusty what I wanted to do with them he told me the price I paid it. They came with "SPL Coils" made for me on the side. I do not know if they are level 4 coils or what but he did say they changed the rms to 1000 watts. They handle a Sundown SAZ 1500D amd equal right around 1 ohm at the amp. all coils paralleled . Ask Rusty when you contact him what they are. I am thinking the SPL Coils are like the armored coils......... Only the cool people have them and Know about them. lol
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Get the "SPL" coils in the level 3 then power handling goes up to 1000 rms. That is what we have in ours. I can say one thing that is for sure; you will know what the level 3's are like maxed out.
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I would use the level 3's it you can control yourself with the volume. I have some on a 1500D and it is pretty close to the max it will take. The level 4's take all of the 3000D so a 200D would be easy on them. I do not see a reason to go with the 4xl's but it is your money.
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I am still going with the 2 level 3 12's. it will be louder on the same power. Especially if you do not want to upgrade right away. But I only base my opinion on my experience with both subs. Cost to output ratio will be higher with the level 3's. I do not think you will be disappointed with level 3's.
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look at that vid in post 362 that doesnt even look or sound like a 160 outside the vehicle.
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I had that same setup in my Explorer and it is now inn my wife's Civic and it sounds superb. When I switched my truck to level 4 12's it needed more power so I swapped to a SAZ3000D and it sound great.
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Oh yeah and get the level 3's with the "spl" coils too if they will still do it. You will be glad you did.
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I say level 3 12's
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You could just run a self tapping screw through it and then silicone over the top to make sure it doesn't move. That is what all of the best shops in the U.S. do.
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I would not use it. I would drill through the floor and put a grommet in. I would then bolt it to the frame after wire brushing the area then I would paint it to stop rust. Just me though.
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I will buy it as well.
look at this one
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
He posted at the "other " Site that his account has been hacked. That would suck. I wish I had hacker skills. anyway I guess it is only 6000 and not 30's like everyone has already said.