neutman21

Ok, I thought mine was around 75 amps....

ok. ill give it a try... and is it recommended that i only use 0 gauge? or can I use something smaller?

Ok, I am doing about 1150 rms... and the big 3 probably wouldn't fix the problem would it??

I did a check on the wires and all of them seem to be tight...

Ill do a recheck on the wires, but the battery is an optima yellow. I also considered getting a 100A-150A alternator or doing the big 3. I just don't want to put money into it if it doesn't fix my problem..

And the grounds are good...

Box recommendations are 1.25 cu ft and the box is small by .07. I set the gain on my amp with a dmm and backed down on the gain just a bit more. There is no bass boost on the amp/head unit, just a subwoofer level control. And settings on cd player all should be normal, I defeated the eq on the cd player and it still sounds bad. The sub sounds great when it isn't close to me, but when I put my ear close to it, it doesn't sound clean at all.

Alpine cda-9887.

Hey, just got the new system put together and after hooking it all up, the sub sounds really distorted at mid volume. I checked the box size 1.18 cu ft with a small amount of polyfil, I set the gains on my amp with a Voltage Meter, and did research online to make sure all of my settings are right. The sub is a 12w6v2 (wired in parallel) running off an hd750/1. I have 2 guage wiring that splits into 4 guage and I keep thinking it may be that my alternator is too weak to support the 2 amps I have. There is slight dimming with my lights on when the subs it, and the alternator is stock on a 2000 ford ranger. I don't have the equalizer hooked up right now.... I have also had the same problem before with a 10w7 and a 500/1 in the past, but I just thought it was the sub that was messed up, now I am having the same problem. Any help would be nice before I end up messing up my sub or buying something I don't need if it could be a small problem.. Thanks.

so i have a momentary switch that i had already bought and already installed into my dash...and when u say to wire it into the 12v, do u mean the 12v on the 451m coming from the brain or the actually 12v?? and how would i wire it into the 12v? do I just cut it in half and run the two wires to each side of the switch? and will there still be constant power going to the brain? and shyne, if i wired it into the switch...can I use the immediate switch i have?? if so, when u say to do the same for green wire as I do for the blue...wont the two blue and green be touching on the prong together??? leaving the ground on the other prong on the switch?? Here is the switch I have..... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/a...equestid=384862

im getting my phoenix gold tld 22 line driver today...ill see if that helps my amp performance. i have read forums of people having alpine decks that put out low voltage from the sub out (mainly because you have to have the subwoofer control on the cd player turned all the way up to receive the 4 volts with a certain test tone). Ill see how it goes and post if it works or not...thanks for the help so far...

So I successfully installed my viper 350hv and actuators along with the 451m... I would like to now install a button or switch to unlock my doors from the inside while the vehicle is running so I don't have to reach over and open the door since the alarm automatically locks the doors after 3 seconds of starting the vehicle. I bought a button from autozone that is an imediate signal button with just two prongs...do I need an oem door lock for this or some switch that has a 12volt signal?? how do I go about hooking this button up??? Thanks

i put new rcas in and I had originally tried it without the line driver...im taking out the audiocontrol eq and crossover and adding just a phoenix gold line driver because I had low voltage before...line driver will be here monday.... and thank you for the note Red-navi....

k...ill give that a try. I might just go ahead and pay $60 to get my whole system checked from back to front..

No..I didn't... i thought it could be the settings on my amp.

Ya, I know...I keep thinking its one thing...then its another...I had the sub checked at my local JL dealer and they said the sub was fine. and no i bought if from on ebay from a powerseller with good feedback

Since I bought my 10w7, I havent been able to figure out why it hasn't sounded right... all my items are listed below and the 500/1 is equalized and crossed over through the audiocontrol eql and 24xs...sub sounds good until I turn up the lowpass and I hear a distorted popping when the sub tries to play double-bass at loud volumes...it can handle certain frequencies (mainly lower frequencies), but tighter bass causes some popping that is noticeable when I put my ear close... Sub is in a sealed box with 1.35 cubic feet of air...dimensions 13.5x14x17. I thought it was low input voltage, but the audiocontrol eql has a line driver...what could be causing this pop and why is the sub not able to perform like it could on certain songs???

I have a sealed box right now that I made with 1.35 cubic feet of air...3/4 with double on front... but I have room for the HO box and I have heard nothing but good things about it....just wondering if it was possible to find one..

Does anyone where I can buy just the HO box for a 10w7??? I saw one on ebay from dynamicautosound for $251...but I was wondering if I could find one cheaper....

It makes sense why it wasn't working before, and when I say it wasn't working, the sub was not making any noise...and right now I have the rca's coming only from the back of my headunit from the rear rca output because the rcas go straight through the eql and are crossed over on the 24xs... I am going to ditch the 24xs and keep the eql on my 300/4 and run the 500/1 straight from the back of the deck... when you say the loudness only increases the bass boost, it increased it through the rear rca output where I had my rcas coming out of....

On the alpine decks it has a loudness on and off setting.

Ok, I feel like an idot, the Loudness needed to be turned on...my neighbor who works on stereos knew right away what it was.... He also told me that I didn't need the eql that I had since jl audio amps don't work good with equalizers... Im probably going to keep the eql and use it to clean up my mids and highs...or should I just use my 24xs as my crossover??? or should I ditch both of them??? any thoughts on that???

What does x2 mean?

I have the sub set the jls specs...should I have the bass eq on or off in my situation...and I tried resetting the output on my eql, but for some reason it seems like my 500/1 isn't getting enough juice to run the sub... I have to turn the lowpass on my 24xs all the way up just to get decent sound and my gain on the amp is about 3/4s up....could this be an amp problem or what is the best way to see if the amp is running right???

and when I say off it's by half an inch or less.