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Posts posted by Neo_frog
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alright guys i have a question about voltage drop
this is what my electrical will look like for my system
if i can get a 400amp alternator
2 new max AGM 200ah batteries thy weigh about 150 pounds each in the back so thats 400ah
1 95 ah in the front
6 or more runs of 0 gauge and big 3
ima b running around 8000rms or higher depending on voltage
know do you guys think ill have a huge voltage drop or a not to bad voltage drop
ima trying to run a SD 8000.1 its rated 8000rms at 12.6
still learning a thing or 2 guys so thanks for your help
A 400 amp alt is fine for 8kW, but you'll run into voltage issues at idle.
What kind of batteries? Amp hours mean nothing.
3 runs of + and - are sufficient.
And with said electrical, yes, you will have significant voltage drop at full tilt. 400A charging @ 2k RPM will hold its own for a while, however.
Here's my 10k setup:
320A alt
5x HC2400s
2 runs +/2 runs -
Big 3, buss bars, etc.
I can run decently at idle, but I can't demo for hours. Worst I've seen is 12.9 under heavy abuse before I kill it.
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I bet you fixed it. And I'd put money on it that only one of them was smelling badly. Another member came over to my house just the other day with the exact same problem.
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If it's not centered, the surround will rub or the cut out will prevent the sub from moving causing heat to build up quickly. Did you smell both subs individually?
If you have answers for this and insist you did it correctly, then listen to Korey.
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Then another issue I'm wondering is if you are rubbing since you're inverted. Make damn sure that each sub is centered exactly. That is another thing that will stink up a sub quickly.
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I think many are failing to see that my subs are inverted, thus I can't really fry my subs or roast them, because I will smell it right away. Also feel that not everyone is reading everything, i said they smelled after a while at full tilt, Took them out then put back in, played over full tilt without smelling anything, thus why I am so stuck on that the pressure inside the box from heating and cooling did it.
Here's what you need to do.. have pen and paper ready. Note the temp, volume, and song you're playing when it happens.
Do it over and over. I'm willing to bet you find it's only specific songs that do it, but I can't b sure because there's just not enough info. Where you located? (No locations on mobile)
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Things to consider:
First, inverting means more airspace in the box. Im sure you know what that means. Second, if the box is sealed the smell will tend to stay inside the box.... you won't notice it as quickly. Third, you are supposed to reverse the polarity when you inverse. Just an fyi if you didn't already know.
Not entirely true. It makes no difference to the sub what polarity it recieves, it won't hurt it. Sometimes it's better for SQ, but it's application dependent and a whole different topic altogether. He probably wouldn't notice much of a difference.
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Good to see they have real classes now. I think it was last year they had <1000W class and >1000W class. I called and bitched out the owner lol.
Were you guys there last year?
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More port area raises tuning
More port length lowers tuning
More volume lowers tuning
Apply the concepts accordingly and do whatever makes you happy. Sometimes we have to deal with what we have.
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Wrong. 1/3= 3.333333333333333333 so on and so forth
Interesting.
1/3 is .3333333333 9/2.7 is 3.33333333333
What does 9/2.7 have to do with this problem?
hdorre said 1/3 was 3.333 whatever. Then someone followed agreeing.
They were both wrong. Skippy was showing what 3.3333 was as an improper fraction.
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I know it may sound crazy, but I f*cking love this girl and her covers. I was hoping somebody could..ahem.."fix" this song up with a nice bassline. Looking for < 35hZ, but I'm open for anything that flows.
If you need help "finding" the song, shoot me a pm. =]
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Well if you ever get fed up with it, you can bring it out and I'll help you figure it out. And yeah, the light drizzles seem to cause more problems than heavy rains as odd as that sounds. Dealt with it a few times..
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So the firewall AND the (driver?) door are leaking? You have any pics of the source inside the car or what's wet?
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I quoted a blanket price of $650. I need to see the car before I give an actual cost. I made some recommendations and said to provide everything as far as materials.
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94retta, it's all good bro. We all have our prices and I'm not out to steal anybody's business. If you are the "better man" I'll gladly let you have it lol. I like helping people out so I figured I'd offer.
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Sounds like a nifty install. I'll pm you my pricing and requirements.
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Either way, if you're looking to pay for time and need something fairly large, I'm willing to take it on. Just let us know details so we can help you out.
Oh its on now... Hah jp
Post up Some of your builds if you dont mind im interested.
Bah, I'm at work so I can't see/post pics. =(
You can look at my latest build log for my recent work. It's in my sig. The old ones are on my fb page with my PT Cruiser.
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This is a good idea. I think I'll initiate a contest as well for my team. We have members already, but no stickers. So ya can't steal it.
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Either way, if you're looking to pay for time and need something fairly large, I'm willing to take it on. Just let us know details so we can help you out.
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What kind of install are you looking for?
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The speed of displacement is based on cone area, acceleration (derivative of xmax, power, and roll off) and port area. But that's just for the box. Cabin activation is a whole new ball game. You won't know until you test for statistical data from several scenarios, then derive ideal setups for air movement specifically (response aside). Hopefully you have these resources and the time. I can tell you how to do it, but I'm not going to because it would take me all day.
People generally rely on high power and lots of cone area for air movement. Port size can be designed with equations for tuning goals, "dialed in" for uncalculated boxes to maximize SPL, or sized according to response goals.
But...to answer your very generalized question with a generalized answer, you will be better off meeting in the middle. You gave no information at all for anybody to answer this question sufficiently.
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Ugh...I'm getting out of here. Too much bad info from everybody. OP, feel free to pm me.
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Are you serious? People have big batteries for reserve so the strain isn't constant on the alternator. If you have a cap, tiny as fuck reserve, what do you think its going to do for the alternator? Nothing. It actually adds more strain since the cap needs to be filled all the time because it will be depleted all the time. Hell just off headunit power, your way of thinking still doesn't works lol. Also, a cap with half capacity will have a voltage of half as well and that accounts for a lot compared to a battery that will still have a voltage within 10% of of say 12volt even half way depleted.
Actually, the big batteries put more of a strain on the alternator than any capacitor would. People use banks to maintain consistent voltage under a load since majority of alternator setups cannot keep up with large systems. Each battery draws 2-10A for charging constantly. A capacitor cleans up unforeseen dips in power, assuming you have very little drop in the first place. With his setup, I'm saying use the thing.
And if your capacitor is properly installed, it will never be at half capacity.
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You should really look up how to test "drop" before trying this if you've never used a multimeter.
Some people don't understand what voltage drop is.
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Lol
N00b I'm goin on 4 year
Noob, I was here day one before anyone else, will soon be 5yrs I believe.
Noob, I was...er...uh..
voltage drop question
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Eight DC LVL4 10s on two Memphis 4Ks. The 10kW come from my five 4-channels.