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About Neo_frog

  • Rank
    Da Froggy one
  • Birthday 11/27/1983

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  • Location
    NW Indiana
  • Interests
    All Boom, No Zoom
  1. You'd be surprised at how much power you can draw from one battery, but in your case, it appears that you have other issues. If money is a problem, I'd say your first steps would be to replace your strut tower grounds with full length ground wire runs from the front. You could even try turning one of your + runs into a ground run just to benchmark your drop on one input, but only for testing. Don't push it too hard. The number 1 power/noise problem is a faulty ground. Also, get rid of the breaker and go with a fuse. The breaker is likely a bottle neck, and relying on a mechanical system for electrical safety is unreliable in this application. You aren't even fused on the other side, so there's no need for a breaker. Next, you need to dump the stock battery. It is the weakest link in your grid, so everything else is compensating. Doing these things will significantly improve your situation, but it won't fix it entirely. If anything, it will dramatically increase the useful life of your equipment. Ultimately, you need more storage after the weaknesses are addressed. Are you sure you didn't mean 13.2V?
  2. Clear your inbox when you get a chance, i want to buy your amps!

  3. As requested. You'll notice that the end caps are missing, but I have all of them. they will be shipped with the amps.
  4. I'm also willing to negotiate the truck price if you're interested. This includes reinstalling the interior. And as always, if you would like to see pictures with username and date, I will provide those. I've been away for a while, but I'm still on the Super Sellers list. Feel free to pm or text if you have my number.
  5. My apologies for the delayed response. I will be keeping better track of this. Yes, I'm willing to separate. MCA2004 - $75 MCA3004 - $100 Kinetik HC2400 - $150 MCD4KW - $350 Prices do not include shipping, but again, I'd prefer local pickup for the heavier items (to include the truck lol).
  6. Willing to offset pricing if anyone has three similar 16v alternators or any number of 16v batteries. PM or post to discuss options.
  7. For Sale: 1988 Ford Ranger - Lowered, rims, shaved, actuated doors, painted, engine swapped for 2.9, 90% gutted, comes with all interior pieces and a cap prepped for blow through (glass removed) ISSUES: 90% gutted, does not come with glass removed for blow through, possible slow oil leak, otherwise runs well. Also coming with the truck are the following: - Memphis MCD4KW SOLD! - Memphis MCA2004 - $75 + shipping - Memphis MCA3004 - $100 + shipping - 3x Kinetik HC2400s - $150 ea + shipping - 88 Ford Ranger - $1500 pick up only PRICE LOWERED Nothing is wired up as it was being prepped for a build, but decided not to. Plus, the wife doesn't like me having two project vehicles. I also have 6x 10" DC LVL4 D2s that I'm willing to part with. Asking $160 shipped each (snail mail).
  8. Nope. My job will only be kicking my ass for another week or so. Plus, the wife is pregnant, so my schedule is packed. Once things calm down, I'll be rebuilding the back end again. Actually looking to trade subs for 18s on fb.
  9. Don't worry! It's still alive. There's a full rebuild in the works, but I'm waiting to finish it before the pics roll out. Demos/vids will follow.
  10. Also raised the box about 1" so it's flush with the rear seats and there's plenty of clearance to access batteries through the front considering the trim panel is gone. All in all, it's working in MY favor now.
  11. Thanks guys. After several major overhauls (wiring, bracing, box chassis, mounting hardware, etc.), it's finally coming together. The vinyl was destroyed from sliding into the notches that were cut in the doors, so I coated the box instead. The whole thing was ripped out to find the main source of shitty intermittent voltage and whine. Turns out half the nuts were loose from vibrating. Torqued and sealed them, and refabbed front buss bars. Box framing on the underside was a wreck and slid ripping wires apart. Replaced/resoldered the ends and rerouted. Re-engineered the chassis and screwed to battery box. ^above caused subs, box, AND batteries to jump around 7hZ. Bolted battery box through stock floor. Screws broke, so t-nuts were installed. This caused baffle flex, so I braced it on the sides of the port. As of now, no issues. Just a little creaking while driving. This will be addressed by adding some box to frame positioners. In the midst of it all, I tore apart my doors for a rebuild. I was very disappointed with the RF components. Although, the facepalm comes in after realizing I could have just ditched the crossovers and gone active. oh well. So there are no pics yet. I'm waiting to get her solid again. I've had the forms of the doors set for a long time, but very little time to continue. I'm on vacation for ten days, so I'm hoping to get it going and done shortly. Again, thanks for keeping up! *cheers*
  12. Shit was working great until I had to drop the dash again. Now there's a horrendous whine, RCAs stopped working, and there's crossover issues. Idk wtf happened, but I'm pissed because the main problem is under the box. Only way to fix it is a rebuild. Sigh...
  13. My new puppy is smaller than my foot, but his shit is bigger than my fist. Fml
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