Neo_frog

Oh, and anything goes. I will let you know ahead of time if something is out of my scope of capability. EDIT: For example...body drops. No f-in way

Ok, so over 2k posts and I couldn't think of a better section in which to put this, so here goes.. I know there's a bunch of you that need audio work done. Many who need something crazy, but can't afford it. Well, I'm technically in a spot where I can't afford an old vehicle to use as a project (wife won't allow it haha). So it would be a win/win situation for both of us if somebody needs work done and has an old vehicle they are willing to "pay" for the work. Make sense? Here's an example. You need a wall. You've never built a wall. It's too damn expensive. You have an old Blazer sitting around (that isn't dead in the water). So I build up your doors/wall/dash/whatever as a trade for the vehicle. Maybe I'm going out on a longshot here, but I think it's worth it lol. My only stipulations/requests: The vehicle must be running and not completely rusted out You pay for materials (wood, resin, etc.) and equipment (subs, speakers, etc), I'll cover the labor Allow reasonable time for the build to be completed Preferably pickup with cap or SUV We can negotiate terms if the labor OR vehicle perceived prices do not match A full build log will be provided All terms will be contractual and signed before we begin the process If there are no questions (I doubt there will even be responses lol) then please post a pic of the vehicle and description of the work needed.

I love this forum sometimes.

As long as you know how to solve for Fb, you can play around with your box to check tuning rather than dealing with vent length volume offsets. That's what I do anyways. And Jason, many of these guys rely on large port area. Not sure why it's a "rule of thumb" because every setup is different. My clamshell in the cruiser had about 5sq/cu and did 156 with windows down. My Jeep has about 20sq/cu and I play down to 7hZ safely. Both were designed to do just those things. It may require trial and error though. Sometimes things only look good on paper.

This. My subs play 7hZ to low 50hZ range because of my box and orientation. Not my subs. I didn't look once at T/S specs.

The necessity to apply a bunch of glass and mat really boils down to the setup. But here's a few points to think about since you're worried about affecting stuff. Adding a layer of resin to a sheet of MDF will seal the porous surface. Covering the interior of the box will seal the seams as well. Mat adds a significant amount of strength. If you used wood glue, then covered it in resin, and you're not running a wild system, then you will be fine with what you've done. Do not worry about the volume displacement of mat/resin. It's negligible. If your seams have visible or questionable gaps, then throw 2-5 layers on it. Whatever you end up being comfortable with. You will get what you pay for with mat/resin. The more you work with it, the better feel you will have to know the when/what/how.

I believe it's UM-1010/C/T, but I'll have to double-check. And the motherboard came with it's own CD full of drivers, but I have a "Coprocessor" in device manager that can't be driven properly or found. Not even sure what that is.

Morning bump

Hey guys, I've been working on getting this damn monitor going, but it seems like no matter what I do, the screen does this: Now, I've been working around it by using a regular monitor, putting the mouse over "Detect" in Adjust Resolution window, then plugging in blind and clicking. The monitor works perfectly after that until I start up again. It picks up "Generic PnP monitor" but works completely fine when I detect it. Platform is Windows 7 SP1 all latest updates. All drivers installed properly for screen Zotac motherboard And anything else I can fill you in on. Anybody else had an issue or have experience with this? **If you can't see the vid, let me know.

Guys, seriously, thank you for all your time. I wanted to mention that I talked to Ray and I completely skipped checking some things. These Jeeps have a data retention harness that allows you to use the stock amp..well I'm not using mine since I ran all new wires. Turns out these things lose grounds all the time and he told me to just rip it out since it's doing nothing for me other than supplying an ignition wire. So that's my next test. Hard wiring HU. I have another test for the antenna and some other things to try. I will definitely post up tomorrow and give an update. Right now after working 14 hours, I'm beat. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes.

It does it through three amps on mine. And using the phone trick, I eliminated the amp as a problem. After talking to Ray, he said that's normal. It just creates a ground loop in the phone adding noise to the signal. That's never happened to me before, so it's good to know. I have a brand new 320A Mechman. I tested, clamped, and load tested the alt. All results were in spec. =/ Yes. This has never caused an issue for me. But I ran new RCA's over the seats and the problem was still there...this kinda eliminates the back half.. Three Memphis MCA3004s

The pico fuse I'll have to look into. I'm not sure if the Eclipse is set up that way, but definitely something I'll try. I'll try anything.

I have about 20 sets of RCAs in my garage. After relocating my existing RCAs, I tried three different sets over the seats and it persists. Even through the phone 1/8th to RCA cable. And that confuses the hell out of me, I know. Pulling off the amp stops it, but pulling it off the HU doesn't. That eliminated HU and pointed me in the direction of induction, but that was trumped using the phone and running new RCAs over the seats..

I tried this from the rear batteries. It had the same noise.. also tried a noise filter and it did nothing on either wire setup. I did a very similar rig grounding the whole RCA chassis to both vehicle chassis and HU chassis. It made the noise louder. I read through this guide and several others. I tried everything in all of the guides, but it seems like the problem exists no matter how it's wired, filtered, grounded, or even disconnected. Guys, I'm not trying to come off like a know-it-all, but I have been battling this issue for weeks and I have really tried EVERY fix in every guide short of scrapping it all and buying all new equipment. But really, thank you for the help.