Neo_frog
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Posts posted by Neo_frog
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Kyle, shoot me your number again. My old phone was destroyed.
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I thought about it but I would have to have someone who can make a bracket look at it and say yes one could be mounted down there on w/e bolts they see. There is some room down there though. Some company claims they can do 4 alts on my jeep O.O
Wow..that's a nifty way to do it.. Did you ever get a price?
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He just needs to follow his last drawing. More efficient, less wires. Sorry for the confusion again!
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The response about meter and RTA was to AlexK. I also gave a basic explanation of gain matching. Again, the phone is hard to manipulate lol. Responding is harder than fast reply. It was in regards to strapping amps.
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Yes, the wiring is correct there. Sorry for the confusion.
And as far as strapping, yes it's beneficial to the meter or RTA, but not really to the ear. As long as you tune both with an o-scope, then turn the higher one down to gain match with a DMM, you'll be fine.
If all you're using is a DMM, then use manufacturer recommendations. You won't be getting full potential, but it will be clean.
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Oh crap..no no. I'm really sorry for coming off that way.
That will work, but minimizing distance throughout the circuit is the key to efficiency.
In your first drawing, just move the positive lead to the opposite side on each sub.
ONE lead should come off each coil to the amp.
Sorry again bro. =/
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You got it. Parallel the coils.
For efficiency, I would run the sub-to-amp leads from either coil rather than from one.
I'm on the phone so I apologize for a lame description lol
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Nvm. Please lock if necessary.
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Just test them real quick. They are probably fine. Upside down, short-term, won't hurt a battery. Mount upright (or sideways if necessary) in the car.
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That's pretty cool actually.
As far as dance goes, I'm more of a fan of b-boy style.
Sorry for the video-jack. ;P
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well thats why i did my research and got the universal option
and how reliable are those level control knobs?
i see it comes with a 1 year manufacture guarantee but i dont like hassling with all the problems trying to replace or fix the thing
They are pretty reliable. If you rip it apart multiple times like I did, you'll have some humming issues down the road, but as it stands, it's just a limiter to the preout signal.
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not funny but kinda. i really want to know why people think big subs only work for rap who started that? any bass guitar amp has big subs dont people think about that?
I wasn't really trying to be funny. This is 100% true.
It's also true, however, that a general trend of drivers is the larger the size, the lower the Fs. But this is misleading because it's not a rule, but a general trend. People easily misconceive something they heard from a buddy or a noob as cold hard fact.
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There is no reasoning. They are completely uneducated in car audio.
You can use ANY size sub woofer for rap.
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And you have no DCsig in your sign, ohh bad boy...!
Nope. Just a shit load of DC subs in my av lol.
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Oh yes. Rusty is damn good about getting back to you. We sat and talked for an hour one time about life and random stories during working hours when I called for some pricing. He's very down to earth and ready to help anybody with anything.
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I'd say at least a brazillion watts.
From a Brazilian amp
Now that...was a good one.
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Bandpass has less rise than a regular vented box?
Not necessarily. This is just like asking if bandpass is LOUDER than ported. It can be, but it's all based on TS and box specs. There's just more availability for control.
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The best way to reduce your "average" rise across the spectrum would be to drop your nominal load as far as possible with efficient wiring (which will be negligible). Rise relies highly on motor force and mechanical compliance of the sub and acoustic properties of your box. If you're not willing to change these things (or even learn the details) then you are SOL.
You could use a bandpass to control it, but you'd be making trade-offs with your final reproduction because you worried about something unimportant.
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Considering your box is on the smaller side tuned low, I'd say you could safely play 5-6k with some controlled conditions. There does come a point, however, that box size won't trump the power handling capabilities. You'll also have to do testing on your thermal if you go that route.
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Only benefit I see is less miles on the odometer.
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I say some new door panels so you can dress em up real nice. At least I would love to have spares lying around lol
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Neither and both.
I've had them both and they both sounded great. It's all in the setup, but I wouldn't expect much of a difference in output. Some will say the BLs "ring", but I couldn't tell an audible difference. I run DC now, but it's your call. Go with the cheaper one.
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Have you contacted Ray?
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4kW wont make a difference?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Did everybody miss the original point here? If he adds a second amp to his 1 amp/2 sub setup, chances are, he will hear very little difference in reproduction.
Load distribution will be better across two amps and it will be more efficient, but he'll be halving the load (doubling impedance) on each amp yielding half the power from each.
I'm assuming you're using D1s. So unless you're planning on running @ .5, you won't have a big difference.
Or did I miss an important part of the story here?
Torres: if you caught my comment that I quickly deleted, it's because I read the responses wrong lol