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Neo_frog

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Posts posted by Neo_frog

  3. What do you call a person like myself?

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    I know what you mean. For the longest time, I never understood it either. But honestly, until you've listened to your favorite music in an SQ car, you will have no idea of the difference. Hell, just installing six components in my driver door made me hear shit I've never heard before and it is beautiful.

    I'm don't install for SQ by any means, but my placement and setup has shown me quite a wider range of frequencies I've never heard before. I've sat in competition SQ cars and there's an incredible difference.

    But generally, ALL cars sound exactly the same (with aftermarket parts) at first. After you do it for a while, you'll start to pick up subtle differences in the stage, reproduction, and overall range being played.

  5. I feel air from the port

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by Neo_frog

    like opening a hatch or rear door for ex?

    Well you have to remember that majority of systems employ a box that has much lower internal space than the cab of the car. Trunk systems rely on the back side of the car (or sealed trunk) for extra loading if oriented that way. Walls are where you run into that type of problem. Each time you add more exposure to the outside air, generally the resonance spikes. Unless you know your response well, in bassboxing for example, you would have to start a bit lower and turn it up until you start to unload to get your best score. That's assuming you haven't tested and you actually care about your equipment.

    But with normal trunk or hatch setups, depending on the size of the vehicle and position of the box, there's a chance that opening doors will barely affect the cone movement even though your peak frequency could change.

    Here's my example from my last setup:

    Enclosure: 19.7 cu; 2x DC LVL5 18s; 8kW

    Sealed Cab: ~42 cu

    Door: ~806 sq in.

    Peak Sealed: 32hZ

    Peak (one door open): 32-33hZ

    Peak (both doors open): 51hZ

    And doing the little test I mentioned above, I did start to hear some distortion with both doors open on normal music.

    EDIT: spelling

  6. I feel air from the port

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by Neo_frog

    loading is when there is pressure...btw port tuning is not the end factor of how subwoofers load, don't forget f3 of the box..i have a box at about 7.1 cu ft. with a dd 9518 in it tuned at 42hz and i play a song like i luv your girl for ex. at 31hz fine...lots of deciding factors if the sub will bottom out..hell sometimes subs can bottom out just by opening a window.

    If the cross sectional area of the window exceeds the total effective cone area of the enclosure and the volume of air inside the enclosure is about the same as the cab...then yes a window will choke it. ;)

  10. Subs overexcusion

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    WTF?

    6 cubes for 3 12s is perfect. Hell, even on the small side. Tuning low and playing low would in fact reduce the amount of excursion of the subs at resonance. And you would be giving them about 600W at the ohm load you mentioned which is within their limits.

    I say, you either have nothing at all to worry about, or you are playing well below tuning. You can tell a significant difference in sound and smell with the latter.

  11. hot swap

    in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice

    Posted

    The computers that are put in cars are specialized for a car application. They have solid state devices and can handle more vibration and temperature limits than a normal computer. Most likely your hard drives won't be possible to add hot, let alone easily.

    Your best bet would be USB drives stored away with it that you can readily dismount, remove and bring inside.

  15. 12v Lead from Amp?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    They said it all. A relay is your best bet. In fact, you could use a relay where the hot wire is from a constant source, the switched wire is the head unit remote, and the output goes to the amp.

    This would save you from having to run extra wires to the back and also allow you to run the fan off your remote wire at the amp without worrying about current draw since it's minimal anyways.

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