Neo_frog
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Posts posted by Neo_frog
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They are overlooked because they are nothing special. People don't use them in the lanes because they are not worth it, not because they're nuthuggers. You sure seem to know quite a bit, so why not enlighten us?
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yeah, i've got an 6x9 in a box tuned to 12Hz that my buddy upgraded for me... he was doing 187db with it ...AND the gains were only halfway up.
True story. I was there.
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I know its tuned at 35hz and pretty sure it was used for burps by the previous owner.
I think you got jipped. 35hZ tuning in a box for just burps is unrealistic with that equipment. Just set your SSF to ~30-32hZ and you should be fine depending on the signal you're throwing at it.
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Most use stainless steel bolts. The bolts are very convenient. I suggest using a lock washer on the inside also so there's a higher sustainability of abuse without coming loose.
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Oh yes. There are plenty of 2000+ post counters on here who still don't know shit.
I always give the low ballers a chance before I pounce on them and I have a mental list going of those who post garbage and I chase them around correcting their mistakes.
But that's only because I have a bigger post count and proportionally, a bigger schween.
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You'll be fine with either stock electrical or your plan to add the small back battery. No need to go balls out on power running only 2500 watts.
You'll have 20 people come on here and tell you to upgrade alts and batteries, but it's unnecessary.
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I've made some ridiculous requests as well to test people's skills out. No shame in adding bass to songs that never had it.
I'd pm BigPimpin or Decaf since they work on this stuff all the time. I believe there's quite a few others in the tune's section who are doing similar modification.
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All it does is regulate the current voltage coming out of the alternator. As you increase the value of the desired voltage, it sends slightly higher voltages to the field wire of the alternator. As a result, the alt will charge higher. If you are using an MLA module, it just changes the charging curve based on your PCM.
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Just pm WCA_Rusty and see if you can work out a deal on a LVL5. Better to go new than used anyways.
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Run it under the car and drill a hole through the floor close to your amp with a grommet. Problem solved, and much less hassle. Just be sure to support it with wire clips or zip ties.
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Well remember that your box won't necessarily show the resonant frequency of the cabin. It will only show you where your cabin peaks based on the box response. Most of it is trial and error matching them up.
Some have other test methods, but I've found that port shaving is the best to match up the peaks. Especially since a box vs a wall could yield significant differences in the peak due to the lack/excess of air outside the enclosure.
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1000w and a TV is the kind of system I would run off a completely, utterly stock electrical system. 1 run of good quality 4 gauge and you'll be good as gold. Do the big 3 if you really feel the need.
Yup.
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The trick is minimal voltage drop. If you are playing music, then that's not going to yield the highest possible numbers. You would have to know at which frequency the pressure peaks in your car, play that frequency only for a short burst, then be done. Playing any more than that is useless.
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I agree with not deleting it, but it's very simple to fix or to make more convenient for users typing a number. Hell, I could do it if I had the rights.
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The amps at idle are inversely proportional to the max amps. Generally alts are rated by their output at 2000 engine RPMs. The smaller pulleys spin much faster than the engine and spin differently on different vehicles.
The link in my first post shows a video of how the alternator works. I suggest everybody watch it.
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It's not a real hair trick. He said it moved his hair a little and couldn't light a lighter.
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Psh it sucks only having one weekend off a month.
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My 89 Lincoln with two 15s on 750RMS did that too. Take solace in the fact that you know what really happened.
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A prefab isn't a bad choice like I said. It's not a competition box by any means, but you could still play down to mid 30s without a problem.
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There is still subtle air displacement from sound waves in trunk cars. He could easily have noticed or felt it a small amount. Not a hairtrick per se, but still movement.
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I would ask them to find your peak before competing. Most shops charge like $5 for an extra or pre-run. Run a sweep to find your peak, then run your peak tone when you compete.
Just a note too, your peak changes when you open the door, so keep that in mind that you may have to run a couple sweeps at the same volume, one with door open, one closed, and take the higher SPL of the two to use as your burp in the respective orientation.
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Prefabs are tuned to 45hZ usually. There's nothing wrong with running one in a trunk since the minimal air space will help with cone control, but not enough to stop them from blowing from abuse.
Honestly, if you want to save money, people will help you design it and it's much cheaper for one sheet of wood than a prefab box. But if you really don't want to venture there, then do it. There's nothing wrong with it.
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I know how hard it is to jump into a foreign community so I feel his pain.
Slap or bottoming out
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
The subs aren't bad for what they are, and nobody is nuthugging by telling you that they don't believe scores. Post up proof and show them up. Are you running modified ones or the stock Daytonas?
I'm still waiting on this record though. If you're referring to a 171 back in 06, that's not a record.