Neo_frog
-
Posts
2543 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Neo_frog
-
-
I gots me some SPL tiles holding mine together.
-
Holy shit I hate these know-it-all posters that claim they don't know it all, but refute all advice that's given to them.
You say you've been doing walls for three years...yet you have somebody else tune your ports...and you're not sure how to orient three subs...and you can barely keep up with the other posters... Good luck with your build mang.
-
There's a few things you can do, but I'm going to tell you know, that unless your HIT training, you're pissing all your money away.
There's some cups from GNC you can buy that have motorized fin mixers on the cap and it's dishwasher safe. There's also cups you can buy that have the mixing ball inside. They work well too.
-
In Flames - Jotun
Lacuna Coil - Falling Again
Nightwish - Over the Hills / Deep Silent Complete / Crownless / tons more...
Within Temptation - Somewhere / Ice Queen / Angles / tons more...
Sonata Arctica - Full Moon / Shamandalie
Symphony X - Candlelight Fantasia
Luca Turilli - Legend of Steel
just to name a few...
I have about 120 songs that I just get extremely nostalgic with and I consider my favorite. None of which are rap.
-
okay, so I have 2 15 inch Kicker L7s in a vented box that barely fit into the trunk of my 1999 ford contour SE.
now... my problem is, i had them and still want to face them backwards out of the trunk. because it should be louder in the car and out of the car. because of the matured sound wave coming back into the car and if i open the trunk it will be loud as a bitch.
If i face them inwards, if someone were to break open the trunk there is no way you can steal or break the subs.
i am powering these subs with 2 alpine PDX 1000w RMS amps and I'm using all 0 gauge wire and i have an optima yellow cap battery.
would my sound be inhibited by facing the subs inward towards my car? because i dont want my 2000 dollar system harmed or stolen.
This really has me confused and makes no sense. As soon as a wave is created, it immediately starts losing energy in the form of sympathetic vibration of body panels and friction of air molecules. It doesn't mature necessarily, but depreciates due to loss of energy. The only "maturing" a wave does is die as soon as it's created. People mistake the loading and allowance of expansion of the wave with maturing.
If you face the subs backwards, you will be increasing the effective length of the port which will cause the enclosure to "seem" to play lower causing more vibration and seemingly play louder. Opening your trunk with the subs facing backwards wouldn't make anything louder because you'd have no return and nothing to load off of.
Tuning lower and facing subs into the cab would give you the same results, only louder.
thanx bro i like this idea. im gunna face them inwards, but i dont need to seal off the trunk because you cant get to the speakers or even get them out.
but i was wondering what would change sound wise in the car and out of the car, by facing them inwards?
€
and how did you do your decibel rating in your profile?
What would change is your response. It would yield higher frequencies much better since you wouldn't be loading off the rear of the car.
-
Memphis started out as Fultron and I think that when it was fultron they were USA made but now they are made in Korea
They changed their name to honor the city they were manufactured in back then.
-
Memphis Car Audio was founded in Memphis, Tennessee in 1964. Parts are manufactured in Korea, China, and California.
-
BJD3, I can't see pics at work, but I got your question. Give me the numbers from the box on here or your max dimensions and I'll shoot you a design on the other site.
-
I posted that shit a while ago on FB. It's a great song. And yes, guys are doing that shit too now and it's soooo ghey.
-
Neuropathy is terrible and I hope that shit doesn't keep up for you.
-
Blackberry fail.
-
i tuned my box to 35hz with 2 4" aeros and eh im going back to vented. it sounds LOUD at 35hz but anything below like 32 or higher then like 39 doesnt sound good at all. they have peaky frequencys imo and everyone tells me its not good to bump with my trunk open because the aeros need the trunk to load off of. eh its all in your opinon. if i ever used aeros again it would just be for a burp car.
-
I've been trying to get a hold of him for pricing but he hasn't responded. =(
-
-
Fusing is always a good thing. You should up the ampacity of your blocks though. 100A is not enough. 250-300A will do fine and protect the wire.
I got eight runs of 1/0, eight amps, two alts, ten batteries....and 0 fuses lol.
-
I've been hit with this type of scam about a hundred times. People claiming they are in another country and wanting me to send it before payment, and this check bullshit as well, plus some others.
If it's not 100% the way it's supposed to be, reply with a polite "go fuck yourself" and go about your day.
-
So I brought the TL out to work to do some testing. These scores are extremely odd.
NOTE: This is plug and chug. No tuning or seal from front to back. Amps are gain matched from last tuned install... I'm flexing a LOT in rear doors and back hatch.
Sealed: 149.7 @ 32hZ
Driver Door open: 153.6 @ 37hZ
Kick: 153.6 @ 36hZ
Sealed on music: 153.8 peak?
EDIT: Music stays above 152 the entire time on Decaf's version of "Go Ham"
I didn't try door open on music due to batteries needing a charge and ppl complaining.
So now I have no idea what's going on. I used both 0dB and -3dB tones coming out with very similar results. But my music score is way higher? I was thinking voltage drop, but at the amps on a burp I drop to 12.6 and on music 12.4 or less if it goes too long.
Can anybody explain this? My LVL5s were doing 151 on music, but didn't flex the roof. This one bows my windshield so bad I'm considering a stripper pole. I have no idea wtf
-
Yeah my wife drives that half-car. I'd say build it small, with a small port and add more power. You will probably have to angle the box because of that damn back seat, and it's going to mess up your acoustics.
I don't know how the hell you plan on adding batteries on top of all of it. I would give you some more pointers, but my wife will not let me touch the car lol.
-
ill admit rite now that you seem to have a better grasp at all this than i do but ill give it a shot.
there is a delay from the back wave coming out of the port. if the back wave come out at the same time the subs push then everything is working together. since the horn is so big, you dont have a lot of pressure built up on the face of the subs so cancellation would be minimal. but the small box, port and a little pressure on the face of the cone will all help you not bottom out.
just sounds like everything is working together. i dont like the port being so small but i think you built a great box.
I made the port smaller to achieve Helmholtz resonance (once again, experimental). The volume of air inside the port against the internal airspace would theoretically achieve this in a practical application. This is another reason I adjusted the baffles in the design to match everything up with my projected scenario, but I wasn't going to mention anything about it in case I screwed it up lol.
Maybe it is the delay that's creating compliance.. I was really hesitant to try this because an oscillator would have an outside force acting on a set volume both inside the system AND the opening. Every time the subs move, this changes the internal volume and would affect the pressures inversely since the port is inside the horn. But maybe since the angles are loose, it's not actually resonating like I am thinking...
I think I'm a bit over my head on this one lol. Hopefully this discussion continues though.
-
Bump for more info
-
ur gonna need like at least 80amps or more
umm i would say like 50 or 60 amp fuse
You post worthless information. Every single time.
-
My boss was always about the horn effect, as I posted in the Quarterwave thread ( I think) get your hands, and cup over your mouth, make a sound, like a ahhhh or something- make sure no one is looking.. lol
start your hands off in a cylinder/tube shape, and slowly open them to a bull horn shape, the wider you go the louder your voice gets, until your hands are open to wide, and there is no more compression built up in your hands
I always wanted to do a clam shell, my way, where maybe there is 24- 10" speakers, the beginning of the horn throat equals the cone area of just the 4 or 8 subs
it would end with the area of all 24- 10" subs
So basically the horn throat at the back wall, or port would be about 220 - 440sq inch assuming the 10" subs have a cone area of 55sq inches ( the area would be a test and re test method, first try with the area of half the speakers, then try with the full area of the subs)
The ending result would be 660 - 1320sq inches
if the opening goes to wide, say 1500 - 2000sq inches, there would be loss of compression at the horn/clamshell exit
I cant say this is why your clam shell is louder now, than before, but I'am willing to bet compression built up in the horn of the clamshell is key
See, I was going to attempt a cross-sectional area ratio like that, but the port threw that off. That's why my taper is a little looser. I have the port area close to one sub Sd while the whole back face is about 5 subs total. The opening was adjusted to drop my internal airspace and meet my tuning/handling goals. I didn't even think about the area of the opening. I was going for volume matching to attempt a resonating effect.
air movement has latency to the movement of the driver diaphram, thats why the cancellation doesnt "seem" to be there. It is there, just not perceptible.
At this point, sealing it off or attempting a port adjustment would be difficult. I know there is some minimal cancellation, but I don't understand how the incredible amount of cabin compression happens.
The behavior of air is way different than I've felt in the past. I can't do a can trick like my last wall, but it gags me and destroys my door guts. And it's the first system that is bowing my windshield so bad that I've considered reinforcement.
-
So you all know my design I've been using.
The subs are in and the system is operational. It is by far the loudest I've had, and the last one was hitting a 154 on a burp. I haven't metered it or anything so don't ask about it just yet.
I built it to have 1 ft³ per sub, and 5.9 in² of port per cube for control. The baffles are at 14° with a 7" separation in the back. Port is tuned to 34.7hZ.
This gives me close to 12 ft³ inside the clam as well for a reference. I figured matching the air space would play a role in the response of the horn.
Now here's what I don't understand. Since the port would technically cancel the subs movement with inverse compression, why is it MUCH louder? Or is it that the port creates a compliance effect? I even play flat from 25-40hZ before it drops off.
And my subs don't get hot, and won't bottom out. I've tried. Even with the doors open, the subs continue to act like they are in their own environment independent of the car. (Thanks to Boon for that recommendation) This probably means I have a lot of scalability for power...
-
He's asking if you dropped full power on them fresh out of recone, but after it sets up, full power shouldn't be a problem.
.gif){kind=small}
who else is making alternators on here?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Have you tried calling ANY of them? They do have a business to run and have very little time to check posts on a forum, let alone e-mail potential non-buyers.