BJD3
-
Posts
2036 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by BJD3
-
-
My experience:
When I was setting my gain with the DD1, the clipping light was solid red while the DD1 said there was no distortion. I'm thinking the light comes on AT the clipping point instead of when there is actual clipping.
Granted, this is the M1a and not the AQ2200, but being that the knobs are interchangeable, I would think they are similar enough to draw similar conclusions.
That said, I would still get my hands on a DD1 or a good oscope.
-
I'd personally wait another month and a half for the iPhone 5. But if you wanna go the android route the HTC Inspire and the Samsung Infuse look pretty nice too.
I'd reverse that statement, but the idea remains the same.
Infuse > Inspire > iPhone 5 > Atrix.
My opinion.
-
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/14666-calculating-gain-voltage/page__hl__setting+gain
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/4382-setting-amplifier-gain-control/
Now read this:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/4382-setting-amplifier-gain-control/page__view__findpost__p__498392
And considering with a DD1 you can find 1% distortion and not just clipping, it is (IMO anyway) the better tool.
-
Me.
Cool part is...I thought it was this past weekend.
Made the trip out there only to find a completely empty parking lot. :facepalm:
-
IMHO, HP>Dell
I've ran the same HP laptop since the beginning of 2008 and I've had absolutely no problems with it. Tech support is not needed if you know what you're doing with PC's, which honestly, is not very complicated to deal with. Even if you need tech support, I never had any issues with them. To me, Tech suppolrt is just getting drivers if I need them. Internal problems are a little more complex, but I never dealt with that kind of stuff from HP.
My current desktop is a custom built machine, however my friend has a nice HP desktop that I wouldn't mind picking up and just upgrading the RAM in it
The only drawback to HP, or any "store-bought" PC is the pre-loaded software. I'd never use any of it. Usually, what I do, and did with my notebook, was formatted the hard drive and just install whatever Windows OS it came with. After which, it is a really nice machine.
I'd be a bit disappointed if HP went into quit, because smartphones still will never be able to accomplish half the stuff PCs (or MACs) can. Also, they're not as blind-user friendl, for people like myself who can't see well and rely on screen magnification programs or screen readers.
Just my 2 cents.
I would have handled my issue myself...had HP not made the computer so damn hard to get into. Literally a week outside of warranty and they don't cover an obvious hardware defect? OK. How much is it to fix? Over $300. I'm not going to drop $300 into a $700 computer.
I was planning on buying an Envy. I got the G53 and never looked back.
So did anybody pick up a hp tablet at bestbuy for $99?
I wish. I have my
s out though. -
Dual 2. You will wire down for a 1 ohm final load. But you want the dual 2 coil configuration.
Edit:at a bare minimum you will want 4 gauge. If you can swing a high quality 1/0 (knu, stinger, kicker, etc) do it.
-
Thats why i want to get a DMM so i can check my voltage. also its a D4 sub so im only getting like 750W if im at good voltage i did the big 3 but the headlights still dim..
Doesn't matter. If you don't know the signal amplifier is actually outputting, the DMM will tell you the amplifier is outputting more power. And it is. But the signal is could be distorted/clipped.
DD1 >= Oscope > DMM > ear > crank and bang.
-
Well, I tried to order the SAX1200D from dB-r yesterday and the website checkout wouldn't work. I went to order it today but I guess the sale ends on August 22nd, so they no longer have the sale. Shame, I really wanted to buy from dB-r.
Should I just buy the Audioque AQ-1200? It's now $40 cheaper than the SAX1200D.
I think you'd be happy with either one.
While I don't have personal experience with either*, both are from well respected companies and both get rave reviews.*If information I've been reading is correct, the M1a and the AQ1200d are very much alike. And I've abused the crap out of mine.
-
You've closed the thread but I'm going to reopen it. lol
There is a school of thought that says putting a line driver behind a low power deck will rectify all the problems a low power head unit creates.
I would think that being that the line driver would still have to have that high noise floor then would boost that, you would still have all the noise you were trying to fight. If anything, running it through another device would give noise another chance to rear its ugly head. Correct?
Also, I've confused myself. I know what I want to say, but don't know the correct terminology. Would the noise floor be lowered or raised?
-
Id like to know if I go from a 4 volt h/u to 2 volt would i be losing lots of power.
From what I'm given to understand, all a higher preout voltage will do for you is lower the noise floor since the amplifier doesn't have to be as sensitive. Higher voltage head units give a stronger signal out.
As far as losing power, no. That's why you have a gain knob. So you can set the amplifier to match the deck.
EDIT:That said, preout voltage isn't the only metric you should judge a deck by. That would be like saying "I'll buy this subwoofer because the magnet is bigger."
-
What he was saying was if your amp is clipping... it doesnt matter what you head unit volume is at... So to be on the safe side.. just set your amp about half gains.. and find out the number your head unit clips at.. someone said 34 or 35 or something so dont go past that.
Also x2 on the DD-1... or find someone in town who has one that has 5 spare minutes...
Yes i have my gains at halfway but i was wondering if i turned up the SW Lv on the Hu will it make it clip at a sooner point? same with treble bass and mid Lv?
i am trying to get a DD-1 Beleave me lol but im still trying to get a DMM and lots of other things new Batt stuff like that....Yes. You have the headunit outputting more at the RCAs. Eventually they will clip. If they don't, when you pass on the signal to the amplifier, unless the gain was low to begin with, it will clip.
Basically the SW level etc. are gain knobs themselves.
The only exception to this rule I'm aware of is Alpine units. Their SW level is wonky in that at 15 you are at 0db. So set your gain with the headunit at the max you will ever go. Make sure that doesn't clip. Then go to the amplifier with the deck at that maximum output level and set the gain there.
A little searching goes a long way.
And as for the DMM...are you sure you're really getting rated power? If not since you have no way of seeing the waveform, its entirely possible you will still get 1000 watts to exit the amplifier. However, its also possible its dirty power.
-
its because you are looking at the small picture. The money isnt in the pc and laptop game. the money is in the server and computing game. If you knew what the cost of a rackmount server and all hardware to set it up right cost you'd shit yourself.
This. HP has been alluding to this for several years now. I didn't think they would take it quite this far, but I knew their PC business was hitting the back burner eventually.
Their stuff are shit anyway. I stopped recommending them years ago. Their netw hardware cant compete either
Not only that, but service is shit as well. Never again will I buy an HP computer.
-
What type of wiring kits should I use? Anything under $50 would be fine.
EDIT: I guess it would help if I gave the link, huh?
After shipping it will be a little more. But in my (very) limited experience, this is the best wire I've used.
Its a little outside of your budget, but maybe you can make the stretch?
Sonic electronix also has Kicker Hyperflex. Its a lot more flexible (though how useful that extra flexability is is debatable), and a little less wire.
AudioSavings has Cadence wire. I haven't used it, but a few people on here have and seem to like it.
-
What he was saying was if your amp is clipping... it doesnt matter what you head unit volume is at... So to be on the safe side.. just set your amp about half gains.. and find out the number your head unit clips at.. someone said 34 or 35 or something so dont go past that.
Also x2 on the DD-1... or find someone in town who has one that has 5 spare minutes...
This. I literally just tuned my dad's truck. It took me more time to break everything down than it took to actually set the gains/find the deck's clipping point.
If money is the issue, I'd suggest turning the gain way down until you can afford a DD1.
-
Dont have one.
Get one. DD1 is cheaper than amp/subs.
-
My link , refurbished Sundownsale 20 % off Saz 1000 D 208 $ SAX 1200 D 220 $.
Would you suggest to get a Sundown amp or the Audioque AQ1200?
Honestly, its a toss up. Pick the one that's cheaper/looks best/matches your sub. They will both perform.
Personally, I'd get the Sundown because I think they are secksy. If I really would have had a problem with my M1a, I would have bought one of the refurb SAZ-1500Ds off dBr.
Yes, I do make decisions based upon looks.
-
also, the phase on the amp reverses polarity
so that should stay at zero correct?
subsonic should be set a little lower then box tuning? or a little higher?
LPF is something id have to play around with right?
im not a noob here but amp settings are not something i fully understand lol
going out to mess with this real quick ill be back
also checked neo-frogs thread, theres nothing about phase that i see
Is it detecting a signal and the 40 hz tone?
-
Now I did personally set forth to test and compare most of the brands out there to see how they perform, I just need to finish testing all of the brands I do have and compile the info. Just been a bit too busy to complete the task.
Just a question.
How common do people have an issue reinstalling the interior after installing MLV because of the added thickness.
-
I'll just say this. Put your Mechanical Engineering degree to the side. Car audio is not rocket science, at all. You made my brain hurt reading that. Not from lack of understanding what you meant, but understanding why you think you need to do all this fanciness for car audio.
Because a car is a terrible, terrible listening environment. Road/wind noise, off axis speakers, various acoustical barriers and reflectors...
You want to get as stable a platform as you can. You begin this by ensuring the car itself doesn't interfere with the sounds you're trying to reproduce. You can't eliminate all negative factors, but by eliminating what you can, you make the best of a bad situation.
-
From what I'm given to understand, its a toss up. Birch is ligher, has less sawdust, and (IMO) looks better.
MDF is cheap. And works perfectly fine.
Don't know how they compare when you work with them except for the fact that MDF has a tendency to split if you don't predrill.
If I had to speculate, I'd think birch was a little healthier since you don't inhale crap tons of glues. But I have no fact to back that up. And I doubt you'd want to snort either one.
-
Dude, WTF happened to my post?
Link. In my sig. Anti-Peel and Seal. Click it.
-
2 18's
the thread should have ended after this post.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that though that. lol
-
-
Personally, I'm not convinced. The peak is still flat, its just quieter than it was before.
That said, all the audible information that used to be in that peak is now gone. (Which is why I HATE the loudness wars. I have a volume knob TYVM)
I'm going to sit here and see what Decaf has to say.
Actually, I won't be sitting here. But my point remains the same. lol
s out though.
While I don't have personal experience with either*, both are from well respected companies and both get rave reviews..gif){kind=small}
2 audio que 10s help
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted · Edited by BJD3
This is bad advice. It is stupid to suggest "set your gains around half way," ESPECIALLY since nobody knows the headunit you have.
Invest in a DD1. You can spend the $200 now, or in a couple months when you start killing equipment.
And that's regardless of whether or not you get the AQ or the Kenwood.