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BJD3

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  1. Depends on how you have the coils on the sub wired. Pull them out of the enclosure, get pics, post them.I agree with the last guy. I think you have the new sub in parallel, the old sub in series. Then out of the box and hitting the amp.
  2. That's not because Apple has a death grip on it. Its because Audacity doesn't "ship" with the needed codec.
  3. When I say 27 inch, I'm not referring to oversized 1920 x 1080 monitors. I'm referring to the 2650 x 1440 things that normally cost at least $700. ex. the Dell 2711, HP ZR27, Apple Cinema Display, etc. I'm talking about the IPS based, high resolution screens. Needless to say, I'm far too poor to get one at those prices. Of those, the only one that doesn't have the really thick anti-glare coating is the ACD which was 1K, and can be gotten refurb'd for I think $800. Again, too rich for my blood. I've been eyeing the 27 inch Korean monitors on Egay for quite some time now and seriously considering getting one. I'm really just waiting to see how low they go before I take the plunge. A few months ago they were priced around $400, now every now and then you can find them dropping below $300. These are also glossy screens. They use the exact same panel as the more expensive monitors, but are the "A-" panel as opposed to Dell/HP/Apple's "A+" panel. You end up with a bit more backlight bleed, the possibility of a couple dead pixels. Personally, I know the monitor I have has a dead pixel, but I never notice it, so I don't care. Anyway, for some, one of the major concerns is if you get a monitor that has problems out of the box, it will cost you $100+ to ship it back to Korea. I still think that all things considered, a $400 27" monitor is worth it, but some people (understandably) disagree. Microcenter is now carrying one. (Review) Note: I neither own this monitor, nor do I know how "EQD" handles warranty claims. Assume the monitor you buy will have no post-30 day return window support. Being that most monitors won't develop an issue, again, this isn't an issue IMO. More info.
  4. Bottom board isn't attached right. Your plexi is too long. C'mon man! Attention to detail! With some seriousness, this box is hella good lookin.
  5. yes i did. and i don't what differences you speak of. There's a much bigger difference between "ear-o-scope guy" and "oscilloscope guy" when it comes to switching to the DD-1. The guy with the magic ears is GUESSING, and telling everyone he is right. The guy with the DD-1, that used to use, and has experience with an O-scope, is getting the job done the same (properly).... but faster and much easier. Depending on how expensive your scope is, and your experience level with it, one could argue it is more accurate too. IIRC, Ric was also using an oscope and still had an audible difference. shrug
  6. Wrong, the loan value of a salvage auto is 80%, meaning it does have some resale value, just not the same as a clear title. You would be surprised how many cars out there are salvage title. A lot of times, it may be minimal damage, but the insurance totals it out cause it cost more to fix than what they consider it to be worth. http://www.foxbusiness.com/personal-finance/2011/06/03/5-reasons-to-avoid-salvage-title-cars/ "Most salvage title cars are priced at least 5% below market, which seems like a good deal. But in most cases the true value is much, much less. Consumer Reports calculates that a salvage-title car is worth 50% of its Kelley Blue Book value, at best." If one has any intention of selling the car someday, then it never makes sense to buy it back with a salvage title. No offense, but there is a fairly large difference between what articles like that say, and real life. Resale value is lower. Oftentimes much lower. But there is still a lot of money to be made buying and selling salvage title cars as long as you have mechanical know how. I personally know several people that do so.
  7. I don't think that's what he's asking? I think he has a dual 1 subwoofer. In which case, flashlight is correct.
  8. Unless I'm mistaken (and I seriously, seriously doubt it) Tahoes/Yukons/Suburbans don't have leaves...
  9. When gaming, I like NO post processing. This includes 120 hz. All the processing increases input lag. Meaning the amount of time from when a signal is sent from a source to the television takes longer. In some genres this isn't that big of a deal. To some people this isn't a big deal. But for me, playing racing and FPS isn't an enjoyable experience. It's even worse if you want to use it as a computer monitor.
  10. You forgot to mention viewing distance matters as well. And even if, I'll always take a 1080 24 inch over a 720 24 inch. ESPECIALLY if I'm gaming or if its for computer use. I mean my laptop is 15" and is 1080. There is no way in hell I'm going back to 1366 x 768 on anything bigger that 13 inches. And 1366x768 is a higher resolution than 1280 x 720. As far as ghosting goes, most modern plasmas have systems that minimize the chance of image retention. Its a virtual non-issue. Is it possible to happen? Definitely. Is it likely through normal use? Nope. Also, after the extreme headache I've had with Best Buy extended warranty, I'm never getting another one from them. 30 days without my phone is ridiculous.
  11. Not always the case though. I'd rather a deck that outputs a good signal with a low voltage than a high powered one with a crap signal. If Pyle came out with a radio that had 8v preouts, would you buy it over one of Alpine's 2v decks? An issue with high voltage headunits is not all amps go high enough to match. If your deck is 5v and the amp with the gain all the way down is 2v for example, you'll clip when you turn up the volume. What about the hu I'm getting?? Is it good? No clipping? I'm using a apsm-1300 You'll be fine as long as you properly set the gain. Basically what I'm describing is the exact same thing that happens when you turn the gain up too high. Its just in this case you can't get the gain low enough. You can clip virtually ANYTHING if you're a dumbass with gain settings.
  12. Not always the case though. I'd rather a deck that outputs a good signal with a low voltage than a high powered one with a crap signal. If Pyle came out with a radio that had 8v preouts, would you buy it over one of Alpine's 2v decks? An issue with high voltage headunits is not all amps go high enough to match. If your deck is 5v and the amp with the gain all the way down is 2v for example, you'll clip when you turn up the volume.
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