Crump

1000 watts 2 tens, and you mean brace the inside of the box right? Fiberglass 2x4's etc...

What about the amp mounted to a peice of 3/4 MDF and then that screwed onto the box, would that be cool?

Got cha, well the amp is pretty old, it was before the Bd sync's on those amps. And i dont think the box flexs as much as vibrates.

Really ? I have seen tons of amps attached to boxs, will all of them do this?

Well i told my friend that it worked perfectly cuz it did. I dont know how or why this happened, i didnt drop it or toss it. I need this amp by next saturday or I'm screwed. I really dont want to spend 50-150 $'s + shipping both ways to Texas. Just to sell the amp for 175 bucks. You know? and could this be becuase it was mounted on the box?

Do you think someone at a car audio shop would be able to fix it?

Do you know what it is?

So i was showing my friend my old T-1000 and i heard this thing rolling around. So i open the amp up and this is what i find. Heres where its supposed to go. I just need to know what is it? Do i need it to use the amp? If i still use the amp will there be any problems? And would my local shop be able to fix it?

I tried to solder using meades method of heating it from the back and pushing the solder in, and all it did was go down the wire and melt the plastic surround. It was Knuconceptz 1/0 if that matters. Now i hammer the shit out of them

So how do you "make" your system hit the lows? what do you need to do. Just tuning the box?

The Fs of a sub, is that the htz that its loudest at? or is the box tuning more important?

Thats what it was nice. A7X

on an unrelated note where is that quote on your sig from? i cant place my finger on it.....

So filter on phase off. cool thanks

So does that mean it wont play anything below 28 htz? or what? and it SHOULD be on?

there on my amp, i was just wondering... lol and i dont have the manual. Thanks

My Height max in my trunk is 17" (sadly), And that 17" cant make it into the trunk so in my fi Bl box i had to put it on its side (15") to get it into the trunk. So if i can get the box to 16" Will the sub fit? The cut out is 14" and the internal box height is 14.5 so i just dont know any tips?

I cant give the Xl the wattage it craves, 1360 birthsheet holds me back, so i guess the two 12's with a big ass box and a big ass port will be good then

So your saying 1 15" xl will be better? So if i can fit the 15 would that be better than the two 12's

Email [email protected] with message title Prices. And for amps you cant go wrong with Rockford Fosgate

Two Lvl 3 12's vs. 1 Dc lvl 4xl 12" (or 15 if i can fit) Both same wattage Any opinions?

If you decide to run two T215D4's with a RF t-1500 youll have a nice setup bro.

Yeah, but that amp puts out more than said RMS. Its probably like 1700-1800 watts rms @ 1 ohm. So like 850-900 watts rms per sub. However those subs can handle 1250 watts without breaking a sweat. So since its new to you, if you have seen steve meades Tahoe build hes got 2000 watts rms subs, he gives them 4000 watts each. Those "Max" numbers pretty much warn you so you dont over power them too much.

Dual 4's takes more effort to run? I dont see it being any more difficult then any other woofer wiring. That would change the ohm load to 1 at the amp giving 1500+ watts to the two subs roughly 750+ per sub. And why would you want to tone the watts down to 1000 watts.

You know that you can get the power series sub in Dual 4's right? here http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...S&p_status=