Ben Building
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Posts posted by Ben Building
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I am about to use an interface kit to install a Clifford alarm to supplement the factory alarm in my PT, which I have 'hacked' into to add sensors, siren, and additional LEDs.
I have a buddy who is a retired pro installer, and he says that there are a few wires that connect to the car from the bypass, then the aftermarket alarm connects to the bypass. The factory alarm stays intact and is controlled via the aftermarked alarm, so you lose the factory remote.
I am in no way trying to discount taking it to a pro installer, but I want to learn to do this myself, and having an expert friend nearby will make it easier for me.
There are a few pro installers here that will post up more info. You can search the web for the manual/diagram for your particular bypass kit to see how it connects to your car.
**EDIT, look for a member named Shyne for good advice.
Exactly, my point. Why use an alarm upgrade to arm/disarm the factory alarm? True it saves you from having to find door lock wires, but why not just use a pulse (+/-) arm and disarm the factory alarm like we've always done? Please excuse me if this is a dumb question, but so far, I don't see it's advantages.
Assuming the interface kits save the installer time (=money), but what about the security aspect? All factory alarms for the same vehicle are pretty much the same. Having the exact same alarm (minus any add-ons) as everyone else who drives that model car is not going to make the car more safe is it?
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I have some badass 20x8.5" Boss 318 on 245/35/20 Toyo Proxes 4 tires for $850. The tires have very low miles. The rims are 5 bolt (2005 Nissan Altima), so they should fit. Here they are on my car:
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I have some badass 20x8.5" Boss 318 on 245/35/20 Toyo Proxes 4 tires for $850. They are 5 bolt rims (2005 Nissan Altima), so they should fit. I'll post pics in a few, but let me know if you're interested. My email is [email protected].
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If it was my truck, which i probably will do to my dads, is that i would invest in some fiber glass and get it done. Just looking at it, i believe you would be able to get a Fi Q 10, or even possibly a DC 10 in there. You would have to fiber glass the whole thing and then build the port so it would look like an L in the upper section where the wood would be and fire it out the front. would look pretty kool.
Hmmm...
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If it was my truck, which i probably will do to my dads, is that i would invest in some fiber glass and get it done. Just looking at it, i believe you would be able to get a Fi Q 10, or even possibly a DC 10 in there. You would have to fiber glass the whole thing and then build the port so it would look like an L in the upper section where the wood would be and fire it out the front. would look pretty kool.
Thanks, Blue. That's about what I've come up with, except for the L-shaped port. I think I'll try to keep the port as straight as possible to minimize drag. The only problem with a straight port is making it come out close to the sub.
How do those Fi or Dc 10s sound and how much airspace do they need? How would they work in an undersized box tuned low? Real world power handling?
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I have a three month old American Bass VFL 100.1 for $350 if it's in your budget. The amp has been running at 2 ohms during that time period and doesn't even get warm on those speakers, so it hasn't been abused...
How bout $325 for this one:
http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/B...ing/Image84.jpg
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Thanks for the help, Blue. I'd like to do something creative under there but, as you can see, there's not a lot of space to play with? Looking for suggestions here, so if it was your truck, what would you do?
It would have been cool to make and mount a trim ring for one high-power 12 inch subwoofer and mold a wood and fiberglass enclosure out of the rest of the space. The Ram is wide enough to make a looong port for a low fb, but mounting height precludes a REALLY powerful sub. Hopefully Santa will slide a couple of these down the chimney this year:
http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/B...namicscs162.jpg
and this is the first time I've owned a vehicle wide enough to take full advantage of the front stage, so I need an impressive beat to match.
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its gonna be real tight everything wise, it would be nice to have an extra~3cubes so you could fit an optimum box
...or just use 3 and throw one in your girls car or something...hint hint
noticed you have individual amps on each sub, sooo grab one more, move your rack a little bit to compensate, do 3 wide which would look ill
38wX24hX14d, port 26 wide, 3 high, 20 deep, gives 1.55cube per sub, 16.8sq in port per cube, 40hz tuning , very close to optimum specs from kicker, use some poly fill if you want lower curve and "smoother response" (port 20wx3hx27l gives 32hz tuning, 13sqin/cube if u wanna tune lower)
may be a consideration, i think 3 across would look better too
I'm with Raytard on that one. With daily drivers, sometimes less really is more. lol
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These are mesurements that i got off of my dads quad cab. It looks like you could do 1 12" with a depth of 6", and 1 10" with a depth of 6.5" I would have to say. Now if you were to do shallow mounts, then you can probably get away with 4, but i dont know if there is enough volume for 4 of them.
Thanks for the help, Blue. I'd like to do something creative under there but, as you can see, there's not a lot of space to play with? Looking for suggestions here, so if it was your truck, what would you do?
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That is a cool concept car, but keep in mind that it's only a concept. Any production U.S.-legal production car based on this design would look a LOT different. The concept doesn't have a bumper for asthetic purposes, but it wouldn't pass DOT certification. Ditto applies to the super-cool looking LED headlights. DOT regs require headlights to be xx inches from the road surface.
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Hey Guys,
This topic pertains to the advantages of OEM factory alarm upgrades. I've never been to actual school for mobile electronics, but have done lots of alarms over the years. Lots of us haven't, so I know I'm not the only one that needs to hear some input from more experienced installers.
Sure, having a black box control locks, immobilizer bypasses, and factory alarm is nifty, but is it really necessary? How do these interface kits either save time for the installer or add security/ convenience for the customer?
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I always went under the hood for the tach.
We would run the tach, hood pin, and 10ga wires to the engine compartment.
I thought almost all remote starts that are out today had the Tach Sensing option built in so you didn't need to run the tach wire? (aleast 90%)
I thought I had been wasting time finding my tach wires at the injector! lol
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No, there's no tray under the seat. I'm ok with fiberglass, but there are guys on this forum that are LOTS better. I want to try to tub the whole space out, but there's not a lot that will fit under there.
If anybody has any experience building a custom box for this truck I would LOVE to hear from you before I get started.
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Does your truck have the fold out tray under the seat? If you do, you are gonna need to take it out. Let me go check the depth on my dad's truck real quick. Also do you know how to fiberglass at all?
No, there's no tray under the seat. I'm ok with fiberglass, but there are guys on this forum that are LOTS better. I want to try to tub the whole space out, but there's not a lot that will fit under there.
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If you want girls to want to be close to you, the try 360 White, bro. Trust me.
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my boss has 4 of the memphis shallow subs and they seem to hit really damn hard... then he has powerbass in the doors... and well 5 tvs in it... one in the h/u one 15 right bellow one 15 above for the backup then 2 in the headrests...
How do your boss's shallow subs sound as far as low bass extension and SPL? How much airspace do they have? How much power is he using and in what kind of vehicle?
Do you guys think I would be better off going with 4 10 or 12 inch shallow subs (presumably inefficient), or cram the biggest single sub under the seat that will fit height-wise into a single ported box?
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im looking for an amp that can put out 2000 watts at 1 ohm. something under 300 dollars. and im am wanting a bass knob with it.
I have a three month old American Bass VFL 100.1 for $350 if it's in your budget. The amp has been running at 2 ohms during that time period and doesn't even get warm on those speakers, so it hasn't been abused...
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I just got a 2002 Dodge Ram SLT with the factory system and it SUCKS! I have to do something fast. I don't want to do anything crazy (yet) like a wall or a blow through, but I do need some low end.
So, right now it looks like I'm stuck with the space under the rear bench seat.
I have 2 new American Bass VFL 100.1 amps and would like to use both if I can find subs that can handle that power on a day-to-day basis that still fit under the seat, box and all.
I'm running one of the VFLs at 2 ohms in a Mountaineer on 2 Lanzar Optidrive 1232D subs (2.75c.f., 25.12 sq. inches of vent tuned to 22hz). Anybody who has any experience with that amp knows why I'm not optimistic about flat subs taking that kind of power on a daily basis.
Does anybody have any good ideas for this install? I've seen the prebuilt boxes for under the seat of the truck, but who wants to slap a sub in any old box? The chances of that sounding right.... Right now I'm leaning toward making a custom fiberglass/wood box for one high-power sub, but again the space issue. Most strong subs simply won't fit into the 9 inches or so under that seat. Is anyone familiar with the Audiopipe TSF 1200 flat subwoofer? It's said to handle 1000w RMS, but will 4 of them fit under that seat? Can you really get BIG bass from those flat-type speakers in a small box?
If it helps, I will post pics of the truck asap.
PLEASE HELP ME!
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Whaaaaaat?
Yeah, because all the world's loudest dbdraggers are running t-lines... :01nocomment8so:
That said, yes, a t-line would probably suit you seeing as you have lots of space and want strong lows
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think T-line referrs to a transmision line enclosure. They are super efficient, true, but aren't they also super tricky to build. That is unless you're willing to measure your speaker parameters yourself and build a few test boxes...
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Need 4k Amp
in Want To Buy
Posted · Edited by Ben Building
What about 2 AB 100.1s for $700?
http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/B...ing/Image84.jpg