Megalomaniac

but with t/a shouldn't that not happen at all, isnt that the idea of it, all the sound reaches yours ears at the same time? you should not be able to localize speakers. But only localize instrument like watching a concert. The lack of slopes on the 360.2 is a bummer, also the limited xovers. I really wish RF would do software updates. The new Audison Bit1 was released this month, it looks very promising, with the specs thus far its an H701 killer. Only downside is you have to tune with computer, the controller is just a volume and eq preset control.

I played with the 800prs before, that is a nice deck. One thing I noticed when using the t/a on it, maybe this might help you yield better results, is to delay the passenger mid and not the driver side. Since it uses in/cm it works a bit backwards(maybe whoever installed it plugged the rcas backwards idk) however try it, lets see if it is consistent on the 800prs.

I think you got a bit confused on what i said. Driver seat biased, you will still hear sound coming from center of dash(rear view mirror center) but in same setting if I go and sit in passenger seat, it will not sound the same as the driver side at all. What I was actually asking was do you prefer your sound to come from rearview mirror center or do you prefer it to fire straight at you coming from front of steering hump. If had a diagram I would post it, I dont have a simple paint program on my mac so it will have to wait until tomorrow, hopefully you understand what I am asking now.

Only fair I answer my own questions too: 1. Yes; Eclipse CD7000 allows me to t/a all 6 channels individually 2. Absolutely, your car is the worst environment for hi-fi listening pleasures; you have to manipulate everything, there is no such thing as over processed. 3. my actual method is if its in m/s ( i hate the cm and inches) I start delaying the driver side mid until the voices start coming from the windshield(rearview mirror center) then I start delaying the driver tweeter for finishing touches, they say you cant hear a tweeter move, but if you are crossed below 8khz you can hear it ( "they" are the people that are running 4way so that figures) 4. Imaging and phasing with your mids and highs if you can, play with different positioning to hear what sounds best, this natural step will put you leaps and beyond before any processing can fix it. 5. Fixes separation of the mids and highs, drivers will sound more "united" and plays in "harmony", a more sense of a stage will appear(acoustically of course); for the sub i just play with phase, I dont mess with t/a on that channel. 6. I could talk about this subject for quite a bit

You havent heard many reference cars have you? All of them will be center on dash. When it is driver seat biased, you have to sit in driver seat to hear it come from center of dash from that seat. If you sit in passenger seat it wont sound like it at all. Now some people prefer the singer to be coming right in front of the drivers seat, Now i have to question that. Wouldnt your stage be squished on the left channel? or does it make your left channel extend out past the cars boundaries on to the road.

I want to hear the SMD perspective on this topic: 1. Do you use it? 2. Do you care for it;(Do feel it is needed)? 3. What's your method(s); your actual process into implementing time alignment? 4. Any thing to be done before you start the T/A process? 5. What are you trying to achieve(goals) with T/A? 6. Post any other thoughts you may have with this discussion.

Mac amps do start to produce coloration especially on the user end if they listen at high volumes and experience a voltage dip and/or clipping. Instead of a noisy distortion, their amps alter the sound and start messing with the processing, they do this so the consumer never complains about it sounding like shit, cause it wont sound bad, but it wont sound right either. Now I am sure if you set up the amp properly maybe it wont do it, however There is no sonic difference in amp A from amp B. Can you really can hear .0295% distortion difference, you got some mighty gold ears?

answers in bold*

All you are doing is regurgitating information. You cant tell him whats best without knowing his variables, you are jumping the gun. An SQ car does not mean a flat response, however that is a part of it. In SQ the whole idea is to accurately reproduce the music as it was originally intended to be heard. Factory locations are completely fine in a daily car, as long as you find a suitable driver for them. No beaming needs to be involved if your driver has a great off-axis response, depth can sometimes be increased as well from doing this. Why are you completely against JL? JL makes outstanding products, they are up there with Audison, Brax, and Helix if not better. The new JL HD or even the Alpine PDX amps have a smaller footprint, it will make installation easier and will save space for a daily car. Do you realize how ridiculously big and heavy the Mac amps are? Sure they look cool, but the trade off of space and weight is horrible and not the best decision.

I see you are a Lil Wayne fan, I myself am too. Here is a good one off his mixtape. Lil Wayne - Pussy money weed here is the original beat he got it from, its from Outkast called Jazze Belle

How about a Zapco DC Reference amp? You can still do all tuning on a computer and it will be cheaper than a Mac amp and a 3sixty.2 combined, also you will shed some weight, space, wiring, and hassle. Here are some nice Acura installs to help brain storm some: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...retty-good.html http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-...l-complete.html

You can hear induced noises with any speakers, including a $6 radioshack speaker I have sitting in my closet, if the issue is in the amp. However I do agree better amps are more reliable and are least likely to fail in the run. I suggest getting an amp that is highly regulated like the JL Audio amps, my personal choice would be the new HD amps. They have a small foot print, puts out power from 11v-14.5v, and gives the power out in fullrange. Why regulated? Regulated is better even though the current demand may go up. I rather have the current demand go up when the voltage drops than to have my music go quieter when the car is off. When JL releases an 5 channel amp that has a bit more power for my needs I will be upgrading my amp myself.

Amplifiers only amplify sound, there is no proof that one amp is better than another sonically.

What are you trying to accomplish overall for your car? If you really want to get into the SQ of music in your car, having the extra set of components in your car, backseat set?, will not be such a good idea. Try focusing on your sound up front, it will be more enjoyable for you. Also keep in mind your speakers are only as good as the user installing and configuring them in other words just because you have a ton of money to spend on components does not mean you have to spend all the money on it. Lets say you were to buy only 1 pair of components, and not buy the 2nd pair. Use the money for the 2nd pair on other things you may need like dampening your car, especially the doors your components will be installed in. Do a little research on dampening/deadening and you will understand why I am suggesting to invest their. Dampening can really improve your sound. Also the best thing to do when buying components is to find a dealer that will demo them for you. Most dealers will stand by the product and will demo them for you one way or another. Do not buy speakers "deafly", pun intended

Thanks

TBI HDSS Review I will try to break this review down so it is easy to read and understand: Packaging & Shipping As soon as TBI announced the winners for the TBI HDSS giveaway I emailed TBI with my information. They sent me a shipping quote and a Paypal address very promptly on the next business day. TBI shipped the tweeters the same day I sent payment. I received the tweeters 3 days later. I did not expect UPS to ship that fast. They must have shipped them 3 Day select. When I got the package and opened it, I noticed it was double boxed. When opening the actual packaging of the HDSS, they were sitting in a Styrofoam seat. These babies were well packed! No way could you damage these in that box. What’s in the Box? - TBI HDSS Tweeters - Flush mounting hardware - Angle mounting hardware - Tweeter cups - 3.5khz @ 6db passive X-over with 4’ cable The tweeters have a bit of weight to them, shows to me that they are solid and well built. I didn’t see any excess glue, and the terminals were different sizes so you know which side is which. But I must say this, these are the ugliest tweeters I have seen ever. They look a lot like Pyle tweeters or the cheap $20 ones you can get off eBay. I can live with the design of the tweeter but it’s the cheesy silk screening that makes me not want to buy the tweeters. I do like how shallow they are, I mean they aren’t Hybrid Audio L1 shallow, but they are shallower than my Vifas for sure. Cost The TBI HDSS Tweeters cost $200 for a pair. I won these tweeters free in a giveaway that TBI sponsored on www.DIYMobileaudio.com Installation Installation was a breeze for me. I installed them in the A-pillars’ of my 00’ Honda Accord LX sedan. I was using the Vifa D26 prior to these tweeters, so my holes in my pillars were already made, I did have to widen the hole slightly with a Dremel to get them to fit. I made a harness for them. I used Knukonceptz Karma16 awg speaker wire, ¼” Techflex, and some quick disconnects from Home depot. What Does My System Consist Of? - Eclipse CD7000 deck with active X-overs - Elemental Designs NINe.5 Amplifier - Hertz High Energy 6.5” Mids (50hz-4kHz 12db slopes) - Second Skin Audio for my deadening needs including a deflex pad - Kicker wiring - Custom RCA cables - Stereo Integrity Mag 12” v3 in a 1.3 cube sealed box stuffed. (40hz 18db slope) - TBI HDSS Tweeters (4kHz 12db slope) Initial Listening Impressions My initial impression from listening to them right away from the D26s to the HDSS is that the HDSS is definitely brighter and louder than the D26s. I mean brighter in a good way. The D26s are known to be mellow and laid back. These aren’t laid back by any means and aren’t screaming in your ears either. I had to turn the Gain down substantially; yes it is that big of a difference. These definitely have a higher sensitivity. My second listening impression is these are more detailed than the D26s in every aspect. They play higher than the D26. The HDSS does not have the 16 kHz roll off like the D26. This initially worried me into thinking my ears would get fatigued listening to them for a long time. What Songs Did I listen to and Why? “The Sinister Mister” By Bela Fleck and the Flecktones I chose this song for a reason; this track has many instruments playing all at once, from the bass to harmonicas. It has this cool walking bass line at the beginning, and then followed by the drums. A harmonica is added later on too. You can really hear them playing on that harmonic good. “Stomping Grounds (Live)” By Bela Fleck and the Flecktones The use of the banjo is what I love about this track. The picking of the banjo then the use of harmonics on it is phenomenal. The Harmonic pluck is way detailed, no way my other tweeters could play that. Listening to the song with these tweeters made the song even more enjoyable than it already was. . “Grandmother” By Rebecca Pidgeon First thing I noticed with this track on my old tweeters was that her voice was diffused and out of focus. Using the HDSS her voice immediately changed for the better. It’s now well focused and her voice thinned a ton. She sounds more “airy”. If I close my eyes I could swear she was right in front of me in real life. “Grandma’s Hands” By Livingston Taylor I listened to this track to hear if there were any unwanted noises coming from the tweeters, I couldn’t hear any at all. The snapping of the finger was a key part in this song that I had never heard before real well. “Improvisation” By Jim Keltner What is a review without a good drum track? This track really brought the tweeters to life to see how they really are. It played every beat without any hiccups. I cranked this track real loud; I got no breakup at all. I absolutely loved it. “Knocking at Heavens Door ” (cover song) By Ladysmith The lady's voice singing is very airy, you can really hear the air around her voice. Very spacial. When listening to the song you can really hear how wide your stage is and how well it projects. This is a very good song to have reference to. Her voice did not scream in my face at all. My depth is just past my clock then the guitar playing is further back slightly. “Into the Groove” By Madonna At the beginning of the song you will hear a keyboard playing, followed by cowbell sounding instrument, and then the music starts with the synthetic bass playing. The new tweeters really tied the system together in my opinion. My mid bass felt more on the dash the cowbell extend to far side of stage while Madonna's voice right in center(well a little bit to the right of rear mirror, tonal sacrifice I had to make). If you haven't heard this song in a Hifi environment, you must! Other Notes I can say this; these tweeters might be too detailed at times. If you listen to music from an artist that doesn’t record their music real well, you are in for a disappointment. The TBI HDSS brings out the worst in recordings that aren’t good. The HDSS is very linear. For instance the Jack Johnson album “Sleep through the Static” was recorded in analog. You can really hear the tape hiss in all of his tracks. Sure it gives the song character but after a while it gets a bit annoying, for me at least it does. Conclusion If you are looking for a tweeter that is shallow, low distortion, neutral, and detailed these are what you are looking for! though the non existent 16k rolloff might bother some who aren't use to the extended response, however the average mp3 rip does not even extend that high due to compression, but you are a true audiophile that listens to well recorded material then you wont have an issue. Would I spend $200 on them? No, and that answer is solely based on its cosmetics. If they improve their design aesthetically I might be willing to spend $200 on them. For what they are I would probably spend up to $150 on them. I understand they have Patents on these tweeters so maybe the $200 is justifiable to keep it cost affective to produce. Pros - Well packaged - TBI has excellent Customer Support - Detailed and smooth tweeters - Variety of mounting hardware - Higher sensitivity than most tweeters - Some what shallow tweeter Cons - None really other than Price and Aesthetics I just want to Thank TBI for having this giveaway. We would not have known how great their tweeters were if nobody was able to "test" them for them. -Megalo- Here are some videos, I know it doesnt do justice, but thought id post it anyways "So much to say" "Oh Darling" "Grandmas Hands" "Into your Groove" http://www.tbisound.com/dsp_products_auto_tweet1.asp

Si edit: If you have a RadioShack outlet you can find it half off.

I got a tip from Mark Elderedge last Saturday. He had a little seminar. If all you are trying to do is set your gains, you do not have to own an o-scope. You can buy a mini amplifer from Radioshack. It has a built in speaker and an amp. He demo'd it for us. What this unit does is it detects clipping. I am quickly going to tell you this next part is just to check clipping on your source, there is a 2nd part actually for setting your gains, but it requires a voltage divider, I will type that up later on. Why do I need to know when my source clips? If you do not know when your source clips and you are clipping you will amplify that clipped sound. By knowing where your deck starts to clip you can set your gains appropriately and get the fullest out of your equipment cleanly. It will sound better too and yes you can hear the difference. What will I need? - -Radioshack Mini Amplifier - 1/8 to RCA converter - fresh 9v battery - CD with test tones, you will need a 1000hz test tone at 0db and a 500 hz test tone at -10db and 0db(try to buy the test tones on a CD, do not just download from the internet in a mediocre quality) - RCA extension cable if your source does not have a remote Getting Started - Unplug all your RCAs from your amplifier. - Plug 1 channel of your RCAs into the Radioshack-mini-Amp(I will call it an RSMA for the rest of this post) - Put the test tone cd in your source, for your mids and tweeters use the 1000hz test tone and for your sub use 500hz * if you are active processing put all your xovers to fullrange - turn your RSMA on and turn the volume up to wear it just turns on, you should barely be able to hear the speaker if you put it up to your ear. If you turn the volume up on it you can hear a clipped signal when you send audio through. That volume knob is a gain setting for that device. So keep it low. - Now gradually start turning the volume up on the source as soon as you hear it clip on that little speaker you know that is your max volume for that preout. You can do this for every preout but its not necessary. some higher end units wont clip at all, the Alpine 9887 wont clip at full volume I know that for sure. I will post 2nd half of tutorial later on the actual gain settings for the amp. I will even post up a voltage divider schematic that you can make on your own. End result looks like this: