shazaam
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Posts posted by shazaam
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haha true that! i want as much as possible before upgrading later on lol. i need to get me one
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question, doesnt -15db seem like a massive overlap? compared to something like -3 or -5? idk it makes me think that my subs would stink up a lot. all the huge gain overlaps like -10, -15 confuse me. i dont fully understand it yet. i do know that the distortion is increased but then the dd detects it so would that mean its fine to use a -10db, -15db tone rather than -5db then?
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im sure he will love it. its a really nice headunit
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i have the 5901 on mine running on a 14v setup with the same voltage levels as you with no problems daily. i think its safe
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i thought my headphones were going to explode with the high gain setting lol
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nice truck!
i got an 04 ls
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i just laugh and tell them they bought shitty stuff! i had a guy tell me the same thing pretty much. i let him hear my system and told him about non mainstream stuff. he was so impressed he now has a Fi BTL in his house and runs 2 12" Q's in his car. i guess i converted him lol
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gotta love the XLs
DC ftw!!
Great Video. It's sounding nice. Earned my like.
thanks! i just threw it together but i wanna make more now lol
Check out 2:32, those subs want out haha. Looks good man. Are the inside parts of your ports flared? I want to see that tuned to 31, then do some nasty hair tricks
yeah man these subs are monsters! thanks! no they arent flared i dunno how id make flares for them lol. you know what my old box was tuned to 32 hz but i feel like this box moves more air especially on the low notes haha. if i could figure out how to make flares for the inside then i will pull my subs out and put em on when im changing to fatter screws lol
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cousin and i made a new box not too long ago. just got around to making a lil video. camera really doesnt do any justice. you can tell the flex a lot better from my cell phone camera (records in hd) in the last clip. but anyways lemme know what you guys think. thanks
i feel like they want more power
ill take requests on what to do for the next videos lol
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i gotta give my props for the pros though that can easily do the back windshields with no problem.
yeah i cant do curved glass
i take mine to get done at a shop 30 minutes away, they also did my windshield in one piece in an hour and looks perfect. then again they do this everyday they better be good at it. good work=returning customer 2nd windshield they tinted for me and they took care of me both times. i dont know, even tho the autozone stuff is cheap ive had it on the jimmy for over 4yrs no problems, hasn't change colors or peeled or scratched
yeah i was almost going to. i WILL redo mine later down the year because i want to get better at it and do it in one piece but its fine for now i guess. the part where the second piece overlaps is covered by my box and from the outside its too dark to even tell
but its still messed up I was almost going to try them but i just didnt wanna take any chances. you arent the only person i've seen that has/had good luck with them.
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tinting isnt incredibly hard but it can be difficult. like Beatbox said you need A LOT of patience. i did my car's back windows with 4% over the factory tint and it came out pretty good for a first time. i gotta give my props for the pros though that can easily do the back windshields with no problem. i had trouble with mine and ended up doing it in two pieces cuz i fucked up a lot. my back windshield has a retarded curved shape that hates heatshrinking lol. gonna redo it some day.
just make sure you get quality tint and not the ones you can find at autozone or the likes.
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My back batteries are grounded to the frame in the back. It was explained to me by Matt at Mechman that to make separate charging systems work properly that there could be no common wires between my front and back batteries. Now I did not ask specifically about grounds I just assumed that the only wires running to my back batteries should be 1+ and 1- from the alternator.
I see that's what I was wondering about thanks.
You shouldn't have to worry about grounds....ground is ground, 14v or 18v dont matter. Nobody even makes a dual alt setup for your truck do they? That sucks, i see a lot of guys wanting one. I dont think there is much you can do about the cold morning start ups, even a stock alt charges a little higher on a cold morning. Good luck with this bro.
Hmm ok cool. As you can tell I'm still learning haha. I will do something all out one day. But no not really. The only one I know of is one for various 5-6 cylinder gm's and it's kind of universal, and that's the one Boilermaker used for his Trailblazer and even then he had to do some cutting and what not to make it fit. I'm willing to try it but I don't have the money right now. I don't think there really is. It's not a huge deal to turn the voltage down though. I just wanted to see what they would say about it. But thanks man.
If it were me and it didn't like the voltage over 16.6 I would probably just drop the voltage down in the mornings, because the alt is always going to charge higher on initial start up until it warms up. You could always add in the step downs if you wanted to drop the voltage down for your vehicle. With the step down you could run one of them and just have it hooked up to the fuse panel on the truck. It really depends on what you prefer.
Yeah that's exactly what I do every morning. It's not really a huge deal. The only issue I really did notice though is that my a/c doesn't really work when I'm in the 16 volts. I've noticed that today when I turned it on. It wasn't cold until I brought it down to 15.6 volts. I'm def not complaining though I love running at 16 volts.
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Yeah that's actually exactly what I wanted to do, 2 270 amp alts from DC Power or possibly something from Mechman. Anyway yeah man that is on my list of things to do. Unfortunately for us 4.2L I6 Trailblazers we have to do a lot more just to get enough space for a second alt. Only one I know of who has two is Boilermaker (Sp?) with the 4 lvl 5 18's. I will def consider what you said though. One thing though, did you ground the back batteries separately or are they grounded to the chassis or where ever along with the front battery, since they are being charged by a separate alt?
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Unplug the VCM itslef from the harnes in the car before you turn it on after its warmed up plug it back in...
Haha wow I didn't think of that!
I dont know the details of your system but if you have multiple alternators I would suggest letting your stock location alt run your front battery at 14v and then dedicating your other alt/alts to powering your 16v setup, just to avoid any problems with the cars electronics not liking 16v+. If you dont have a multiple alt setup ignore everything i just said and I hope you figure out your problem.
I don't have multiple alternators just one 250 amp alt. Hopefully in the future I will but for my car its hard for more than one. The car actually runs fine its just that when the voltage goes higher than 16.6~ the abs and ebrake lights come on the dash but they turn off after a little while when the voltage goes down to about 16.5 and below. My car actually runs better at 16 volts. Interior lights are brighter, horn is louder, windows roll up and down faster, car cranks and starts up MUCH faster... I love it lol. But thanks man.
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That is strange, because we have a few other guys running them with no problems. A step down could always be used for that system. You would just need to locate where that part of the 12V system comes in and hook the step down up.
It would be interesting to see what the voltage is reading at your brake sensors.
Yeah it is strange. My brakes aren't really that affected from what I can feel. What really scares me is on some cold mornings it goes up to 17+ volts to almost 18 and my dash lights turn off. I just turn it down really quick and turn it back to 16.5 after it warms up though. The dash lights cut off around 17.1 or 2. Is there something I could do to prevent it from going up that high on cold starts?
I can try and check tomorrow when I have some time before work.
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What voltage are you charging at?
I am charging at around 16.5-6 volts. It mainly happens whenever it goes over 16.6 but once in a while it does at lower volts.
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Hey so I just got my d1400's in yesterday and I got the batteries installed and everything, but I'm having a slight issue where my abs and e-brake lights would come on every once in a while and stay for a little bit then go away and then after a little bit come back on. I can also feel like the car wants to accelerate just a little bit. I'm not sure if the VCM is causing it from running at 16 volts, but I was under the impression that 16v was OK for most new cars. I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer by the way. Is it because of the VCM? Will I need to get a stepdown module? I don't wanna have the brakes fail on me when I'm on the highway or something.
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If your alternator is set to charge at 15V or higher then yes you can run into problems and cut down on the life of the battery. Suggested charging voltage is 14.4 to a max of 14.9V.
Alternators will fluctuate with their charging voltages. When they are cold they will jump up into the 15V range and then drop back down into safe charge voltages when they warm up. This would be ok for charging XS Power Batteries, but if you have a regulator on your alternator and it is regulated to charge at 15V or higher, then you will cut down on the life of your battery.
How long can they be "safely" charged at 15+ volts? I'm asking because Steve Meade had an MLA Module on his and now the VCM which I saw was charging at 15.5V on his thread which I quoted here. I just got my VCM in the mail today and installed it and I have it set to 14.8V. I'm just curious.
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Do some glassin'...and won't that single baffle flex bro? I havent seen many people do 18s with 1 baffle
Yeah I was thinking about that but I was trying to keep the box from going over my back seats. I was thinking about glassing the corners too but I've never glassed before
Definetly more bracing box looks nice though is the front baffle 1 layer of 3/4 or 1 inch, or can I just not see its more than 1 layer if its only 1 layer you might have some serious probs even at 1 inch. Im starting my 2 12 xl box and Im using double baffle on it just saying better to do it now then have it break and have to do it all over again.What kinda power you using?
Yeah I'm for sure gonna add more bracing. The whole box is 3/4". I kinda feel like I should have done a double baffle but I guess its too late I just need to brace the interior better. For now I'm gonna run my Sundown SAZ-2000D at .5 ohms until I can afford something better. I also have an XS 3100D coming my way too but I will get more once I'm ready.
I saw that too. I would say add a layer, but it's already painted.
You could always run another 2x4 across the bottom of the middle of it to add a lil rigidity.
Yeah I think I should have done another layer but I literally used up all the wood I had at the time. It seems extremely solid right now I mean I sat on top of it and tried to get the wood to flex but it didn't seem to move at all. BUT that was just me I'm not 2 18's lol
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Hmm ok I'll look into that thanks.
Does anyone else have any other ideas?
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How would I brace the port? I was thinking about adding another 2x4 going across but I dunno how I would get a full piece in there with the box pretty much constructed. Any ideas on that?
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Hey whats up guys. I don't really post much but I'm in the process of building a box for my new 18" DC XL's that I'm supposed to be getting hopefully this Saturday. It's mostly done but I'm not finished painting it but before I finish I wanna make sure its real good so I thought I'd put up a few pictures and hopefully get some more ideas on what else I should do if I need to do anything more. I will probably need to brace it some more but it seems pretty solid but I don't know as this is my first big system I'm gonna have. By the way that space in front of the box that goes up and over is supposed to go over a row of batteries that I will be getting. Don't make fun of my box lol
And its gonna go in this beast lol
2004 Chevy Trailblazer
Well lemme know what you guys think and what I should do to it thanks
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But I already have a deep cycle battery. Shouldn't that help a little with that? The yellow top battery pretty much stopped my voltage drops right now and I have about 1400-1500 watts right now with the stock alt. I get what you are saying though and I will get another battery too.
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The storage will not help if you don't have the charging capabilities to back it up. Go with the alt first you already have a good battery, then another battery if you still need it later. I would suggest going with an alt with an external regulator like the ones from MechMan that you can turn up the voltage from inside the vehicle when you need it and keep it at 14volts when you are just cruising around.
Yeah that's also on my mind at the same time, which is also why I needed help on deciding in the first place. I have a yellow top up front that's been pretty decent so far. I think I might as well get a high output alt first.
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i take mine to get done at a shop 30 minutes away, they also did my windshield in one piece in an hour and looks perfect. then again they do this everyday they better be good at it. good work=returning customer 2nd windshield they tinted for me and they took care of me both times. 
first video of my tahoe
in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
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looks good man! try a hair trick next