bumonskateboard6
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Posts posted by bumonskateboard6
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I've liked the CTS,but if you can go for the V do it!
Not sure how you feel about ebay...but here's something kinda interesting.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/07-CTS-V-Li...1QQcmdZViewItem
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I know Steve is doing something with this badboy, not many updates on the Caddy so he MIGHT be up to something with it
If only.... I wish he was but chances are he's probably playing with those Crown Amp's he got for free for his house.
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Those infinity's are pretty good, but I'm sure you're feeding them enough power to now let them blow, and you'll still be able to hear them fine. I know you're puttin the infinity amp in but what subs are you using?
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Well, I can already smell my alternator frying, but if you think the draw isn't going to be that strong, I guess its worth a shot.
I'm running 2kw RMS on a sub amp and another 400w in a 4 channel amp right now with only the "Big 3" upgrade and my voltage does drop, but it hasn't been doing any damage.
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Good good, post some pics when you get it done.
As for the caddy take out the backseats and throw a pair of Fi BTL 18"s back there
or if you wanna be sensible a Fi BL 12" is a good sounding sub with some good power handling and one in a sedan does good things.
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You probably dont want to use a powermaster charger, use a real powersupply if your going to play for extended periods with your truck off.
True didn't think about that one, that's why you're the boss
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Your head unit is probably enough for what you are going for, however that amp isn't that power consuming so I wouldn't be too concerned with running a 4 channel amp along with it. As you said you're replacing an amp already there, just make sure you're running 4 gauge. You can just take that 4 gauge then run it to a distribution block where you'll run some 4 to the sub amp, and then some 4 or even 8 to a 4 channel amp. The sub amp has 2 x 30A fuses on it so it will be drawing less than 60A of current.
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Probably putting out 22wrms per channel from your HU. As far as a Head Unit "Booster" I've never heard of these things in my life and wouldn't believe them to do too much, if you wanna get a 4 channel amp there are a lot out there that won't drain your electrical too much, what's the RMS on your sub amp?
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Damn Chode, beat me to it by a min.
As for your actual problem...there will be a lot of people on the site that know a lot more about building boxes than I do. I know you'll be able to knock it out though. As for common or individual ports...do one big main port rather than 2 sissy ports.
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Alright I don't know much about the different alternators out there, I know Meade likes Iraggi, what's everyone's favorite?? This is for a 2002 Acura Tl btw.
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x2 on checking lugs, if it isn't those pull the rims off and check to see if your whole brake assembly is tilted or not.
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Eclipse Ti 4's looked them up and the match perfectly. I just remembered these and they were loud but very very clear. To be honest I don't think the guy that had them in his truck knew what they were cause he just took it to a shop and told them he wanted 4 15's and to be loud.
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I've been wondering this for a while, around a year and a half ago I was at a party when someone rolled up with a nice blow-through in their truck with 4 15's in the back, and they only identified them as "competition 15's". I recently was just going through old pictures and wondered since I couldn't see the dust caps if anyone knows exactly what these are?? he had pics of his truck pushin 156 inside.
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HU - Pioneer
AMP - Pioneer Premier/Rockford Fosgate/JL Audio HD Series
SUBS- Fi/Pioneer SPL Series
COMPONENTS- Focal, DLS, Pioneer Premier
WIRE- Knukonceptz/Fosgate
Kinda n00by but I like a lotta the pioneer stuff, they make good things at a good price....
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When the car's off I'm showing 12.5 on the battery up front, and then when it's on everything reads around 14.4 like normal, then I get some bass going and it drops all of a sudden, I've put the multimeter on every connection in the system and it's reading good just until the music starts. I have the big 3 in 1/0 as well so no voltage drop there...I'm thinking my alternator just isn't keeping up and thought a second battery might be able to store some more charge so it's not drawing down the car's electrical as much.
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I can't quite tell cause of the lighting but in the newest vid (posted tonight) did the steering wheel finally get replaced?!?!
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Not entirely true about the batts only charging each other, alternator and everything's working fine. This morning I went through every connection with the car on, and no music on and everything's reading 14.4, so I'm guessing I'm just drawing more power than my battery up front's putting out so I'm probably going to get a HC1800 or HC2000
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Alright awesome, thanks for your help! I'll let you know what I find when I take the multimeter to it tomorrow.
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Alright, I'll check everything tomorrow morning to make sure nothing's gone bad in the past few months. Aside from that I do feel like getting a second battery for the trunk just to help stop any voltage drop and keep it holding Kinetik HC1800's right in my price range, will it be enough?
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It's an interstate bat (dealer installed) about 2-3 months ago, and I'm running all 1/0.
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I'm currently running 2k RMS, did the Big 3, and haven't really had any voltage problems till today. I was driving around to get gas when I noticed my low fuel light dimming when the subs hit, I have a cap in the back mostly for watching voltage cause I had one laying around, and volts are dropping to 11.7-12 area. Time for a second battery? And if so what do you recommend in the 250-300 dollar price range?
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Like it a lot, I'd do the same to my XJ if it didn't just sit around waiting to be wheeled. But very nice BTL and liking the way it looks!
Chickens 2002 Caddy, The Hoopty 8 18" Fi Btl + Rockford Fosgate (2) T15k Amps! UPDATES! IPAD AIR 2 In Dash page 335
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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I spy Chicken...let's get back in with this, you're helping finance the dreams of millions.