siucsaluki11

Just tested cig lighter and it is switched. I dont see how this it is ghetto to run it to there. If anything it seems like the only option i have, i tested all the wires and didnt find one that worked, I dont get it.

The cig ligher is fused anyway. Trust me, ive blown them in every car ive owned when a dime falls into my cig lighter and i push it in when i loose my lighter and my stereo stops working. Also, the amp gets its power from the battery lead, which has a 10A inline fuse already.

71-005 or whatever it was, the 2nd one, looks like the end i cut off in attempt to solder my 9887s harness to the car. I left a bit of wire so i wold be able to re-solder if needed. Manofthehour, idk if youve ever installed a HU before, or if were just not communicating our thoughts to one another clearly. Electronics have 2 inputs for power. As switched source, the accessory wire, the one im trying to find... And the 12v constant wire, the one i already found.

???? dont follow you...I have found my 12 v constant. I cannot find my accessory wire. It is pissime me off royally. Ive busted out the flood lamp. I have done this on a blazer in below zero weather at 11 at night, i can do this on this gorgeous night tonight since i dont have to get up at 4 tomorrow (thankfully, but wish it was for a different reason i will be late to work) But ya. Car is getting annoying. and n8ball, dont wanna ghetto rig it. Bit if i cannot find the wire, i may tap into that wire, it is essentially the same thing. Id tap into it and solder in a new wire to run up to the HU, which is right above it pretty much. Not much work to do, and not ghetto. Ghetto would be plugging into the Cig lighter, and running out and into the front of the dash to the back of the HU, lol.

its a 9887 replacing the stock HU, may try that.

There is no data bus to the HU. It had 2 regular pin connectors in the back.

will go back out and look...Got to my ignition column and there was a block/harness that had 5V written on it in red marker. Havent put the DMM on it yet but im guessing that means 5 volt. Wondering what these wires could be. To the suggestion of the switch. I have horrible memory, and always forget shit, but hey, that happens i guess. I would always forget to turn that thing off.

Anyone have a HU wiring diagram? Im in the middle of doing mine and ive been searching for the accessory wire for 15 min. Im a bout to run it to the ignition column.

Ok, thats what i thought you meant, the 2 cords thing threw me off. Its just an adapter plug that goes between the alpine cable and the iPod yes?

whats the different cable? Only one im finding is the KCE-422i

2 cords? Ill have to look. Im tempted to just get the big 160 gig but i was afraid the 9887 would be sluggish searching through it.

Well, its been about a year and a half since my last iPod got stolen. I have yet to replace it, been using CDs for everything, and have alot on my hard drive. I just got a 9887 and was wondering which ipod i should get. Does this unit have a problem navigating the big ol 160g iPods or will it not be an issue? Will it work with the iTouch? Thanks.

ive spent quite a few hours playing with BBP6, trying different tunings and volumes to get which response curve and everything looks like it would work best to me. If it does, great, if not, time to build another box. Most people say ported area should be 3-4 times that of sealed, but it is all woofer dependent. Going by the response curves ive gotten ive decided im going to be trying 3 chambes, 2 sealed, one ported. 1 cube in each sealed chamber, 3.2 or so in the ported, with a big ol 8" port about 4" long. Heres a pic. Went with the untypical ration because it gave the smoothest curve, widest bandwidth, and most gradual peak. Other ones had a real strong peak around 50 Hz. I dont want a boomy box, its an SQL build. Supposed to get loud but sound good doing it, which is why i wanted to try a 4th order in the first place, becasue they can be very musical from what everyone says. And the response curve im getting

And since someone bumped it, Today my wiring from KnuKonceptz came in.

Just a random i was happy because my new mids came in, and i got them on teh cheap. And today when i got home there was another box, with my 9887. Tomorrow should be one with a bunch of wire from Knu. Hopefully some goodies from sonic electronix so ill be able to get it all wired up this weekend. Deadener in doors and trunk too possibly if i get motivated enough. Im waiting on my dash kit to come in with my RCAs from sonic, they were a seperate order, ordered first, but they were short a set of RCAs so it should head out tomorrow they said. Its been about 8 full months since i got my new car, and that was 8 months of no bass, no aftermarket anything. 8 months of boring ass 30some mile drives to and from work down the highway and sometimes in shitty joliet traffic. Cant wait to get everything installed.

So the other day i started ordering alot of shit for my car's stereo. I needed everything but a 4ch, a monoblock, and subs. My Peerless SDS 6.5s came in today. Theyve been here all day, but i just checked the mail, and it was like 11pm when i found the box from parts-express on my front step. And i typed this out last night and forgot to post.

In my 2nd post, red is tuned to 65 yellow is to 60, much bigger bandwith, it doesnt peak really, plays pretty flat. Which is kinda what i was goin for, equally loud at almost all frequencies. Ill do some more playing with BBP after work tomorrow

To me the one in red i would imagine would sound better. But not as loud. That is with bigger sealed chambers. I like my lows, and from 43 Hz on down the yellow one has less output. But how will the system work with the car? That is the question, i have no idea where it will peak, and how this graph will end up sounding in my car.

Ya, im going for loud and musical. Ill be happy if it works, if it doesnt, guess i will just have to keep trying more and more. I still got a few months to read up though. Might buy the loudspeaker design cookbook to give myself something ill actually want to read and gain some knowledge.

BUMP come on, i know theres some bandpass guys on here, just take a quick look, lmk if it looks right.

Well, to be honest, i dont know shit about bandpass boxes. I know they have potential to sound good and get loud. So im thinking of trying one out in the build im hoping to start in the next month or so (about damn time). The woofers are best suited for sealed supposedly, but they liked a ported box, got loud and low. But im in the mood to try something different, so heres this. It will be for 2 Clarion 12s, gettin around 400 each (supposedly 450 but i doubt that). If this doesnt work i can always just build a regular old ported box. The box will more than likely end up facing forwards firing into the seat back from my trunk, sealed from the rest of the trunk. Rear seat doesnt fold, but the box is pretty big, and theres no holes in the rear deck. So id be afraid of the enclosure blocking all the sound from getting into the cabin. Enclosure Bit of info Response chart

Happy bday man. 20 flew by pretty quick for me, enjoy your last year of not bein able to legally buy booze haha.

Why not 2 12s ported? More cone area than as single 15, a smaller box than a pair of 15s ported (since it wont fit that way), and the ability to run more power than your single 15 setup (depending on what you have/buy). A pair of 12s ported has alot of potential.

havent looked up any numbers, but the box for my blazer was around 17x37x24 or so, that was 4.8 cubes after port and subs. Did you take into account port and sub displacement, bracing displacement? I can look in my files see if ive got anythign thatd work for ya.

The desire to keep a trunk was my reason for originally thinking 8s, then i was thinkin a 15, but now im thinking 2 12s since its more cone area, will take up about the same space, and i can do it in stages so im not dropping 3-5k all at once.