siucsaluki11
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Posts posted by siucsaluki11
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lol im gonna guess you are... my suggestion is kinda crazy and idk if it can be done for an amp but this is how i hooked my LEDGLOW lights up: i wired the on/off to go to the 12V cigarette lighter socket so it turned on and off with the car obviously... i think u mite need another fuse for that tho... just a suggestion, like i said idk how it'd work with an amp, good luck tho
its a 9887 replacing the stock HU, may try that.
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There is no data bus to the HU. It had 2 regular pin connectors in the back.
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blue wire w/ white line.
or plain blue one.
will go back out and look...Got to my ignition column and there was a block/harness that had 5V written on it in red marker. Havent put the DMM on it yet but im guessing that means 5 volt. Wondering what these wires could be.
To the suggestion of the switch. I have horrible memory, and always forget shit, but hey, that happens i guess. I would always forget to turn that thing off.
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Anyone have a HU wiring diagram? Im in the middle of doing mine and ive been searching for the accessory wire for 15 min. Im a bout to run it to the ignition column.
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the alpine cable charges at 12v you need a adapter that connects to that adapter in order for it to charge at 5v which the new ipods need
Ok, thats what i thought you meant, the 2 cords thing threw me off. Its just an adapter plug that goes between the alpine cable and the iPod yes?
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whats the different cable? Only one im finding is the KCE-422i
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2 cords? Ill have to look. Im tempted to just get the big 160 gig but i was afraid the 9887 would be sluggish searching through it.
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Well, its been about a year and a half since my last iPod got stolen. I have yet to replace it, been using CDs for everything, and have alot on my hard drive. I just got a 9887 and was wondering which ipod i should get. Does this unit have a problem navigating the big ol 160g iPods or will it not be an issue? Will it work with the iTouch? Thanks.
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ive spent quite a few hours playing with BBP6, trying different tunings and volumes to get which response curve and everything looks like it would work best to me. If it does, great, if not, time to build another box. Most people say ported area should be 3-4 times that of sealed, but it is all woofer dependent. Going by the response curves ive gotten ive decided im going to be trying 3 chambes, 2 sealed, one ported. 1 cube in each sealed chamber, 3.2 or so in the ported, with a big ol 8" port about 4" long. Heres a pic. Went with the untypical ration because it gave the smoothest curve, widest bandwidth, and most gradual peak. Other ones had a real strong peak around 50 Hz. I dont want a boomy box, its an SQL build. Supposed to get loud but sound good doing it, which is why i wanted to try a 4th order in the first place, becasue they can be very musical from what everyone says.
And the response curve im getting
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And since someone bumped it, Today my wiring from KnuKonceptz came in.
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Just a random i was happy because my new mids came in, and i got them on teh cheap. And today when i got home there was another box, with my 9887. Tomorrow should be one with a bunch of wire from Knu. Hopefully some goodies from sonic electronix so ill be able to get it all wired up this weekend. Deadener in doors and trunk too possibly if i get motivated enough. Im waiting on my dash kit to come in with my RCAs from sonic, they were a seperate order, ordered first, but they were short a set of RCAs so it should head out tomorrow they said.
Its been about 8 full months since i got my new car, and that was 8 months of no bass, no aftermarket anything. 8 months of boring ass 30some mile drives to and from work down the highway and sometimes in shitty joliet traffic. Cant wait to get everything installed.
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So the other day i started ordering alot of shit for my car's stereo. I needed everything but a 4ch, a monoblock, and subs. My Peerless SDS 6.5s came in today. Theyve been here all day, but i just checked the mail, and it was like 11pm when i found the box from parts-express on my front step.
And i typed this out last night and forgot to post.
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x2 you want smaller sealed chambers and a bigger ported area roughly 3-1 ratio (ported to sealed) and your by looking at your port length it looks like your trying to tune it low which is what you dont want
In my 2nd post, red is tuned to 65 yellow is to 60, much bigger bandwith, it doesnt peak really, plays pretty flat. Which is kinda what i was goin for, equally loud at almost all frequencies. Ill do some more playing with BBP after work tomorrow
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To me the one in red i would imagine would sound better. But not as loud. That is with bigger sealed chambers. I like my lows, and from 43 Hz on down the yellow one has less output. But how will the system work with the car? That is the question, i have no idea where it will peak, and how this graph will end up sounding in my car.
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Ya, im going for loud and musical. Ill be happy if it works, if it doesnt, guess i will just have to keep trying more and more. I still got a few months to read up though. Might buy the loudspeaker design cookbook to give myself something ill actually want to read and gain some knowledge.
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BUMP
come on, i know theres some bandpass guys on here, just take a quick look, lmk if it looks right.
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Well, to be honest, i dont know shit about bandpass boxes. I know they have potential to sound good and get loud. So im thinking of trying one out in the build im hoping to start in the next month or so (about damn time). The woofers are best suited for sealed supposedly, but they liked a ported box, got loud and low. But im in the mood to try something different, so heres this. It will be for 2 Clarion 12s, gettin around 400 each (supposedly 450 but i doubt that). If this doesnt work i can always just build a regular old ported box. The box will more than likely end up facing forwards firing into the seat back from my trunk, sealed from the rest of the trunk. Rear seat doesnt fold, but the box is pretty big, and theres no holes in the rear deck. So id be afraid of the enclosure blocking all the sound from getting into the cabin.
Enclosure
Bit of info
Response chart
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Happy bday man. 20 flew by pretty quick for me, enjoy your last year of not bein able to legally buy booze haha.
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Why not 2 12s ported? More cone area than as single 15, a smaller box than a pair of 15s ported (since it wont fit that way), and the ability to run more power than your single 15 setup (depending on what you have/buy). A pair of 12s ported has alot of potential.
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havent looked up any numbers, but the box for my blazer was around 17x37x24 or so, that was 4.8 cubes after port and subs. Did you take into account port and sub displacement, bracing displacement? I can look in my files see if ive got anythign thatd work for ya.
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The desire to keep a trunk was my reason for originally thinking 8s, then i was thinkin a 15, but now im thinking 2 12s since its more cone area, will take up about the same space, and i can do it in stages so im not dropping 3-5k all at once.
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what do you mean about cut an opening? i had a car very similer to the the on the OP mentioned and i had two ported L5's back in 2001 and i didnt have to cut anything
what size subs? He means to fit the box you may have to trim a bit of the metal in the opening so that the box will fit into the trunk. I miss my blazer because i had endless possibilities as far as what i could have done for setups, plenty of room in there. I switched to a trunk car last august, and im still bassless. Trying to save up money, and figure out what im going to use. Ive got a pretty roomy trunk (2010 lancer) But i can tell ya, i wont be stuffing 2 15s in there. I was thinking of a single 15 off 2200-3500W, but now im lookin at a pair of 12s off some decent power once i save up enough. Like everyone else has said, even if the box fits, running that kinda power, where are you going to putt the amps and batts? And keep in mind when you build a box that big for the trunk, your spare is going to be inaccessable. So you may wanna consider moving it and stuffing some batts into the spare tire area.
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Will work out a cutlist for you, cut sheet is up to you to figure out.
Top is 1.5 in thick. Port is 15.5 x 5. Box shoud be good as long as you brace it properly. I recommend 1" dowel rod.
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alright, ill try and get those done for ya by the weekend. I work 6a-230p so when i get off i usually am a lazy bastard, or got shit to do. Today was a bit of both. Had to do a lil cleanin, and just overall lazy. But ya, Should be able to get those to ya this week. Should be able to do it with one sheet of MDF too. Thats all mine took, and i fucked up and had to re cut pieces, and your port will be shorter.
Head unit wiring help
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???? dont follow you...I have found my 12 v constant. I cannot find my accessory wire. It is pissime me off royally. Ive busted out the flood lamp. I have done this on a blazer in below zero weather at 11 at night, i can do this on this gorgeous night tonight since i dont have to get up at 4 tomorrow (thankfully, but wish it was for a different reason i will be late to work) But ya. Car is getting annoying.
and n8ball, dont wanna ghetto rig it. Bit if i cannot find the wire, i may tap into that wire, it is essentially the same thing. Id tap into it and solder in a new wire to run up to the HU, which is right above it pretty much. Not much work to do, and not ghetto. Ghetto would be plugging into the Cig lighter, and running out and into the front of the dash to the back of the HU, lol.