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siucsaluki11

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Posts posted by siucsaluki11

  1. or less

    with boss, id go with or less. Clean power, way less. Just my guestimate. My buddy had a sony xplode amp pushing his Pioneer sub. His pioneer amp shit itself, which caused the switch. We set the gains to what the amp said it puts out RMS and it sounded like SHIT, had to turn it WAY down to make it sound good.

  2. I sent someone at AQ a message a few days back i believe, never got a reply asking for :help: and a few questions about the sub. The TSP on AQs site are for the Aluminum coils. So now im between do i go Al or Cu coils. Im pretty sure i wanna push a 2200D on each one, some day may go to a 3500D on each one. So i may go with Al coils. So i have found i can make a box that will be roughly 13 cubes tuned to around 38 hz after displacement and bracing and all. People seem to like these things tuned high. And the response curve agrees. So...sounds like im going to be going with 13-13.5 ft^3 tuned to 38Hz, 160 in^2 of port. Subs and port up cuz i dont want the port right in front of the hatch. Anyone good with designs? Im thinkin ill take a whack at it, i just have never used any of the fancy cad programs except wildfire, which i dont have anymore.

  3. You could go all out and learn how to fiberglass and make new door panels.

    P7160144.jpg

    if you dont wanna do that thought the best way it to get rid of the plastic housing, and make a adapter out of 1/2" mdf. Ive even gone as small as 1/4" mdf to get some 6x9s in a 5.25 spot.(with some metal cutting)

    I got some glass skills, not much though. Ive been wanting to do doors or door pods. If i do my whole door, ill probably do 2 part foam. Ive used it a bit before, shit is kinda cool. I see alot of people that do door panels or just pods, but it never shows how its attached to the door if its the whole panel or how the pod is attached to the panel. I wanna put 2 sets of 7" daytons and some tweeters in my front doors. Already kinda know where the tweets are going seeing as i already got type s comps up front and cut a hole and flush mounted my tweeters in the door panels.

  4. I heard the copper coils are a bit more musical than the aluminum. The price difference isnt that bad. Kind sucks the coppers are cheaper, last i checked, copper was more expensive. Now. If i buy them as copper coils and blow them, could i recone them as aluminum? I really know nothing about reconing a sub, ive never had to do it. There isnt a big price difference between them either, i mean, ya, an extra $50 per sub, but if its going to be cheaper in the long run, i may just do it.

  5. With that kind of power I would start to think about the aluminum coils just to be safe.

    Ill ask around. I know a guy who has a wall with 4 of the 15s with a 3500D on each. I wouldnt be blastin it full go at all times. Ill do some more research before i make my final selections. Ive heard people say these woofers need a good 2k each though.

  6. Ok, been playin a bit more.

    Exterior dimensions, 38 wide, 35 deep and 22 tall. Port would be 8x20 for 160 in^2 and 8 in long. This will give me a box of roughly 13.5 cubes tuned to 37.65 Hz

    Then i put the volume and tuning into WinISD Pro, and looked at the response curve.

    For a 13.5 cube box:

    Fb: 37.65

    F3: 30.9

    Peaks at +5.279dB at 41.20 Hz

    Would this still sound good on music or no?

  7. Not sure what im going to do yet...I have some time, I got some bills to pay before i can buy all this stuff. I just like to plan ahead. I may end up making 2 boxes, one 10 cubes tuned to 30, one ten cubes tuned to 38, see which i like better for daily, and keep that one. Is there a big difference in the T/S parameters between the copper and aluminum coils?

  8. hmm...I know its apples and oranges (or something more outlandish) comparing my current subs and those. My subs went from being in a sealed box to a 4 cube box tuned to 35 Hz, to my current box of 5 cubes tuned to 30 Hz, and so far i like the low tuning best. I was playin with WinISD after i posted that.

    Results for boxes that have 10 cubes after displacement.

    Fb: 28Hz

    F3: 26.36Hz

    Pretty much flat 1> + or - 0 db above 40 Hz

    Fb: 30Hz

    F3: 27 Hz

    +.789dB @ 39.35Hz

    Fb: 38

    F3: 31.78

    +4.194dB @ 43.63Hz

    Not quite sure which one would be best. Its going to be my DD, otherwise i wouldnt really care about the back seats. I listen to alot of types of music. Mostly i drive alone, and then its rap or electronic shit. I do sometimes decide im in the mood for rock, and i got alot of friends that like rock and things along the lines of portishead (BTW AWESOME FEMALE VOCALS IN PORTISHEAD), boards of canada, venetian snares (fucked up but good), and back to rock, primus, sublime and radiohead.

    I want these things to sound good on music. Will the 38Hz tuning get low still and sound good on music? Of all of the response curves i looked at im leaning towards the 30 Hz curve.

    mxman, what kinda music do you listen to?

  9. Alright, so im wanting to go with 2 18s in my blazer. The other weekend i got to hear a bunch of HDC3's and decided thats what im going with next. At this moment, I wanna keep my back seats still. Since this box is going to be a good size and im keeping the rear seats, it will not be staying below the window line. If i make the outer dimensions 38 wide, 21 tall (only including the one baffle, but ill end up doing double baffle of 3/4"), and 35" deep. Its a 2000 4dr. I have 36" but that will make opening the hatch a little more difficult to get my big hand in there to grab and pull the latch thingy (not good with words on the weekends) I was thinking of making the port 8x19.5-20.5 (not sure how big yet), giving me around 16in^2 per cube. After displacement im still looking at roughly over 10cubes. Probably right at 10 after bracing and all. What is a good freq. to tune these at? I was thinking somewhere around 28-30 Hz. Havent gotten a chance to play with WinISD lately as my laptop crashed and im not supposed to be downloading things onto this computer im on. But i went and did it anyway since nobody else in the family uses it. So ill probably go and answer a bunch of my own questions when i play with that. Till then, any suggestions.

    BTW: I wanna run subs and port up. There wont be enough room between the tailgate and the box to run subs up port back.

  10. To be honest, i have acid reflux, and i know when i forgot my meds, or sometimes after a big meal when im bumpin. Shit fucks my stomach up, no joke. I get heartburn like a mother fucker sometimes, turn down the bass, heartburn is gone. He may be on to something. What is that thing the govt paid assloads to have developed...the matterhorn? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o36Kp6veJ6c

  11. Ask the last two installers we fired how much they learned at mobile dynamics... Truthfully you will learn a hell of alot more hanging around a shop and reading forums.

    The only good I see car audio schools doing is for someone like myself or another installer that has been doing it for awhile... you already know all the basics, some fabrications, etc... and just want to get a little more in depth or maybe take some fabrication classes.

    No one take this personal, I'm just speaking for experience. But everyone I've ever worked with that went to a car audio school didn't last more than a month.

    I heard about that kinda stuff from there. I ended up going to acoustic edge, loved it. Finished up in end of march but the problem is the economy sucks and alot of shops in my area have closed down or gone out of business. I have a resume at one, but they still havent made a decision, hopefully ill have a job before too long.

  12. my shits simple and in fact a miracle it bumps at all lol

    2 diamond D3 12's

    Kenwood KAC-9104D( i know i know its a whack ass amp lol)

    and get this....... a factory headunit (07 civic) lol

    No reason to knock the 9104, lol. It does a decent job in my blazer. (its all i could/can afford at the time/for the time being) What program do you use?

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