siucsaluki11
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Posts posted by siucsaluki11
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WAS going to go with a pair of Icon 12s, or an X or Zcon 12 or 15 and just say fuck it, but i think 8s are cooler.
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It cost $200 for a new hard drive and windows 7. So when this laptop dies again I am springing for a Mac. But for now I really like my Toshiba satilite pro.
The problem I had with trend micro is I'm not a computer guy and I really don't know which programs I should slow to load and run. I know I'm not alone and there's a million other computer illiterate people that are in the same boat as me.
For now I need a protection that can decide for me until I can get computer literate and know which to do. I won't buy trend micro agaian and kapersky is the one I think ill buy. For now I'm going to try the windows essential though. For free!
went from a 17in toshiba sat to a 17in HP dvwhatever, it still works, i got windows 8 RP on it at the moment. And i have my MBP 17in i got in jan. Thing is a badass. If you do any sort of audio or visual stuff, go mac man. i LOVE my mac. I put windows on a 100G partition of my HD so i can run things like winISD, BBP6, torres, etc. Things that simply ONLY run on windows, and i can still access all my movies and songs that are on the mac partition. So go mac and you'll never go back.
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oh yeah, 5 years was a great run, they still sound new too, even though i put a hole through one of the surrounds, which i siliconed over in and outside to fix, that was 3 years ago. These were the best budget buy ever, my first subs, they went from a sealed box, to a ported box to a final ported box, from doing a 135.x to a 141.x @37Hz in my blazer (different boxes). This is going to be in a trunk car, but Ive wanted to do 8s for years now, and I'm really excited to try them out. I just need to scrounge the money together, being in class/commuting to/from school over 40 hours a week, plus hw when i get home, doesn't leave much time for work to buy new stuff. If i can find someone to buy my subs (they are 150 each on ebay, i figure i can get 150 for the pair, 225 if i build a box for the customer buying the subs locally. Which is really close to the cost of the 8s.
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while cone area is king, I'm working on saving up to buy 2 1508s off a guy on here, and replacing my 2 12s with a pair of 8s....i think getting loud off less cone area is more impressive. But if you're looking for numbers, cone area is king.
yea bro your stepping up to DD form clarion subs. ahah of course youll be louder. when comparing similiar subs on same power 2 subs will be louder than 1 in most cases.
i could easily put a DD 9510 on 3k in a great box and smoke lesser dual 10 setups anyday.
i guess there is a fine line when talking about cone area and all that. you just gotta have some sort of a sense of what your dealing with and try to compare apples to apples and not apples to oranges. so of course your gunna be louder going from clarion 12s to DD 8s. each one of those 8s can handle double what the the best clarions can. I assume you have the 500rms set?
so just to set this straight, you may have different results if switching from lets say 2 DC audio 12s or sundown 12s to DD 8s. you are talking about a little bit better subs and the difference may be a lot different when you go down to lesser cone area that is the same quality of cone area. i hope that makes sense.
im a bit intoxicated at the moment, last part lost me, but I'm feeding about 1200w RMS to the pair of 12s, so 500-600 each (not sure what the amp REALLY does ya know) But I've always wanted to run 8s, this may be my chance finally. The clarions have held up for 5 years and still sound like new, so yeah...im not disappointed with them at all, sure, they aren't any of the mainstreams, or the off brands, but thats what drew me to them, i knew clarion had a good rep in other depts, so i figured id try their subs, I'm happily surprised, especially since i paid 145 for the pair of them.
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while cone area is king, I'm working on saving up to buy 2 1508s off a guy on here, and replacing my 2 12s with a pair of 8s....i think getting loud off less cone area is more impressive. But if you're looking for numbers, cone area is king.
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i just use this thing called a mac and don't really worry about viruses, and back everything up to 2 separate externals, and schoolwork to a server at school, and a 16g flash drive (for pro tools sessions/etc.) Have yet to get a virus on here. Yeah, it was an expensive fucker, but god damn was she worth it. The new ones are even nicer, except the fact that they solder in the ram and HDD, so you're stuck using apple for service. I can swap RAM and my HD and keep my warranty.
EDIT: for my windows partition, i do use microsoft security essentials and malwarebytes.
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BRZ1700.1D at 2 ohms, love it.
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I dont think ive seen a home audio woofer in a particle board box taking 1kw RMS.....thats just the extent of my knowledge though with HT...
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Looking for some used 8s. One works if thats all there is, but if i can get 2 used for a decent price, there may be some serious potential there. I guess D4 would be preferred, but i can work with D2 as well (either work tbh, going to be powered by a BRZ1700.1D).
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you can mount it to the box but i wouldn't cause once you remove the amp from the box you got holes in your box. Which is your box i sealed it really wouldnt be sealed, but like everyone else is saying the vibs can hurt it to , this is my thought
so you put the screw back in the hole and caulk over it (if its never coming back out).....
the back wall of my current enclosure is all part of the port (its ported to the rear drivers side wheel well) and i have bracing in the box and the port, I'm comfortable with my amps mounted where they are, but id still like to do some nice amp racks....
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The v.2 subs will handle a pretty massive amount of power when configured properly as they essentially have no mechanical limit within reason (we have busted them mechanically on 5kw burps). The voice coil cooling also puts them on par with many well designed 2.5" coil drivers thermally.
Now this i ilke to hear, no mechanical limit within reason! I need money to come now so i can pick one of these up to experiment with...
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What dimensions, i had a nice one for 3 1508s in my lancer designed that i never got around to using, i could probably make one up for 4 of these for you (I've been toying around with them myself based off what I've read works with them)
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budget around 250$ what could i getIf you're so far away, you can save/pay a little more and get a better amp.
(I'm not an Hifonics lover !)
if thats your budget, does that include shipping? What does shipping cost to where you are? If that is your budget with shipping, you're limited to Hifonics and the like...
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IF you're going to pay out the ass to get it shipped to Jordan you may as well go with DD or something man...dont skimp if shipping alone will rape you, just do it right the first time.
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so someone is saying he can hear the difference between several amps ? Same settings, same power ? How can you be sure ?
I thought an amplifier was meant to make power, and not modify the sound of the speakers.
Don't believe the hype !!!
trust me, yes, there is a huge difference in what comes out of one vs another. cheap things using cheap components will sound cheap. A/B circuitry will have a different sound/color to it than class D typically also. Amps color sound, speakers color sound, the listening environment effects the sound.
Went into the studio, hooked up 7 SM57s on a kick drum, all to different mic pre's, set the levels on all of them so the signal coming out was about the same in amplitude, and there was a tremendous difference in them, when we tried this on a piano, even more so. I realize these are studio pre-amps, but the point is, they are still amps, and built differently, and each color the sound differently, every component signal passes through will color the sound one way or another, sometimes it is noticeable, others, not so much.
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ib4l
Sundown, can't believe you even had to ask.
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are you guys really arguing about cheap ass amps? Is that like arguing over who's shit stinks less?
this is why I'm annoyed that i can't like things, ever since i did once a few weeks ago, i haven't been able to since. This may be a sig worthy quote.......
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whats with all these people saying subs up in a trunk? Why would one do this? You're limiting your height of your box, and it seems like that would just create more rattling...but I've only tried one box in my trunk, so I'm FAR from an expert on trunk cars. I miss having an SUV...
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I have a BRZ1700.1D
I recommend getting a stronger battery, or a 2nd one....
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Im now lost, but I'm interested in this thread, since I'm trying to get my electrical squared away. How do you figure out how much you really draw? How do you then figure out what you need? Just add up output of your alt plus Ah from your batteries?
well the equation for Watts is AmpsxVolts
so if you have a 3500watt system and your car idles at 14V, you'll need 250amps which comes from the alternator.
but you also have to figure in the draws from the stock electricals of the car itself.
the actual draw of the amp is something you have to take a multimeter to, these people on here are just guessing how efficient that amp is at .5 ohms
i knew P=VI
I was trying to figure out what the amps are really drawing....to figure out efficiency.
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the school i went to it wasnt uncommon to see shotguns and rifles int he back window of pickups. Kids would go from school straight to the woods.
same as where my cousin goes to school
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THIS IS GREAT (the OP i mean, not the 11 year old, thats a tragedy that could and should have been prevented)
N8, i fully load MOST of my guns when i shoot them for the first time, but thats because they only hold 2 rounds, almost all my guns are 12ga O/Us.
Be careful, it sounded like it only took this guy 3 round to shoot himself
Skip to :30 seconds
Any idiot can shoot themselves, I've been brought up properly handling firearms, i know what to and not to do, for the most part, its common sense. O/U won't hold 3 rounds. Most of my guns are shotguns, O/Us, which have 2 barrels, if you shoot yourself with an O/U you're a fucking idiot and in contention for the darwin award.
THIS IS GREAT (the OP i mean, not the 11 year old, thats a tragedy that could and should have been prevented)
N8, i fully load MOST of my guns when i shoot them for the first time, but thats because they only hold 2 rounds, almost all my guns are 12ga O/Us.
i dont own anything that holds under 10 rounds. well my 22 has a 5 round mag....
Im a sporting clays competitor, most of my guns are O/Us, got a few SxS, but mostly O/U
^darwin at work
Referring to me or the 11 year old?
I never said an O/U would have 3 rounds.............................. I meant more it he got like an old trench shotgun that holds 3-6 rounds
now, i do know someone (dad's friend's friend from work's dad) who is missing a lot of toes cuz he would go to clean his gun and not remember it was loaded...but hicks aren't always that smart.....
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y not 6th order?
REALLY narrow bandwidth and a bitch and a half to design....
sealed, widest bandwidth, then ported, then 4th order, then 6th (generally speaking, and if im remembering this correctly) by bandwidth i mean from low F3 to high F3
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Personally, Im wanting to get an SA8v2. I want to try it sealed, ported, different sizes and tunings, and 4th order, different volumes and tunings. Why 4th order....never tried it, always been curious about them, so i wanna try one, just cuz i wanna experiment with something new.
what do you guys use to make a box air tight?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
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I caulk the seams inside the box. Nice thing about having a dad who works for a curtain wall company, i have yet to pay for a tube of caulk, lol.