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siucsaluki11

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Posts posted by siucsaluki11

  2. Amp questions

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    If you're trying to split the stereo signal out of your iPod to a 4ch, heres what i would do. Get a 1/8" to stereo RCA adapter, then get 2 RCA Y splitters, there you go, your 2ch has become 4....this is not necessarily ideal, but for what you're working with, it will work.

  4. Walling 4 door car

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I've contemplated doing a wall when i get done with school and get a real job and buy a new car, and use my lancer to wall off, or buy a blazer and wall that off, but I'm 6'6...i just don't see a wall all the way to the B pillar in my future....My back doesn't like sitting up straight, and my legs like having their room....

  7. how to calculate this design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    i find its easier to just tell them multiply your area by the hight, then divide by 1728 (12^3)

    What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height?

    take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches....

    i find its easier to just tell them multiply your area by the hight, then divide by 1728 (12^3)

    LOL, that only works on uniform boxes dork mcgee, This is an irreglular box, so short of dunking it in water ala "Archimedes" you have to either use a tool like sketchup or break it down.

    ummm, yeah, since his box is the way it is, you can take the area of one of the sides, multiply it by the depth of the box (in inches) then divide it by 1728in, which is 12inx12inx12in to convert it to feet. If youre talking about boxes with different depths on the top and bottom, measure a side and the same rules apply smartass.

    You can use sketchup to get the area of the side, or you can not be a lazy fuck like you probably are, grab a fucking paper and pencil and a ruler, and do some math to figure it out. But apparently youre too fucking lazy. Doing what you said wouldnt work anyway, it would give the Gross Volume, not even taking the thickness of the wood into account in this situation.

    It is assumed you don't figure the wood thickness into the equation, only internal dimensions. And if you will take notice the box has a 45 degree angle in the middle therefore your method wont work.

    edit. I do want to add that yes area X depth will work, but you can't just do "X" x "Y" to get the area of a trapezoid like you make it sound.

    that isnt what i was saying. i was saying take the area of that face, and multiply it by the height. If you dnt have sketchup, you need trig/geometry.

  8. how to calculate this design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    i find its easier to just tell them multiply your area by the hight, then divide by 1728 (12^3)

    What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height?

    take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches....

    The area is given in square feet, not square inches (at least for me). So keeping it in inches till the end would involve converting to square inches, and then converting to cubic feet at the very end, rather than just converting inches to feet once.

    Also, calm the fuck down. There's no reason to calculate it manually, when you have a tool like sketchup, that's just a stupid waste of time. And it works just fine, you're taking the inside volume of the box, no need to take wood thickness into account... Just quit running your mouth, you're making yourself look like an idiot.

    yeah, im saying how to use sketchup the same way you are, but this jackass isnt seeing that. Sketchup for me keeps it all in inches till i tell it to do feet. Easier to work in inches for me

  9. how to calculate this design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by siucsaluki11

    i find its easier to just tell them multiply your area by the hight, then divide by 1728 (12^3)

    What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height?

    take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches....

    i find its easier to just tell them multiply your area by the hight, then divide by 1728 (12^3)

    LOL, that only works on uniform boxes dork mcgee, This is an irreglular box, so short of dunking it in water ala "Archimedes" you have to either use a tool like sketchup or break it down.

    ummm, yeah, since his box is the way it is, you can take the area of one of the sides, multiply it by the depth of the box (in inches) then divide it by 1728in, which is 12inx12inx12in to convert it to feet. If youre talking about boxes with different depths on the top and bottom, measure a side and the same rules apply smartass.

    You can use sketchup to get the area of the side, or you can not be a lazy fuck like you probably are, grab a fucking paper and pencil and a ruler, and do some math to figure it out. But apparently youre too fucking lazy. Doing what you said wouldnt work anyway, it would give the Gross Volume, not even taking the thickness of the wood into account in this situation.

    You can ALWAYS use math (trig/geometry in this case) to do this kinda stuff....

    Also, my method is the SAME as the guy who also posted, but i convert to cuft at the end, i leave everything in inches till then.

  16. Box for 2 12w7

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by siucsaluki11

    3.8 cubes is fine, as is 30Hz tuning, What are you listening to though, and whats it going in. You can most likely get away with 33-35Hz ( i currently have 2 12s in a 3.8 cube box tuned to 33-34Hz and i fucking LOVE it, but i cant wait to get a/some new sub(s) for the back to replace my 5 year old clarions. but yeah, 3.8 cubes is fine for 2 12s ported.

    Might wanna make the port a bit bigger (not much, but a tiny bit) but that wont matter much, youre close enough....Box tuning will rise once you put the subs in also, since they will displace some volume as well. Find WinISD and see how what plots out the best, then use sketchup to design a box.

  19. so when is a HO alt needed?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    To answer the generic question "When is a HO Alt needed?"

    A High Output Alternator is needed when your total potential amp draw of your audio system and accessories added to the total potential amp draw of your vehicles electrical system exceeds the output of your existing alternator.

    Though there are other things that can mitigate the voltage drop (adding batteries (power storage), monitoring voltage, etc) an adequate power source (Alternator(s))is the root of the electrical needs of any given application.

    i understand when it is needed in a technical sense, but i guess I'm trying to ask, how far can you go without getting a HO alt

  20. so when is a HO alt needed?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    every car is different man, even someone with a very similiar setup. a vm take 20 min to put in. run some wires from the bat to in your dash (run with your amps power, and branch off to the dash where you ran your rcas from, and even if its a temp thing and the VM is tucked between your seat or something outta sight, just so you can reference

    I haven't had a spare 20 min to work on my car since i put the new battery in, and that took away a nights sleep cuz of schoolwork i had to do still. I am on the 630 train to the city, and the 6pm train home. Then i get to do all the fun homework. Im not going to do it ghetto, ill wait and do it right. I don't think you understand how much of a PITA the 2010 lancer is to work on when you're 6'6

  21. so when is a HO alt needed?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    accidentally deleted my reply. But what all do you have in there?

    Im doing the big 3 in aug/sept when i have a break from school. I don't have shit for spare time lately, too busy with school.

    Probably do a volt meter then too, though my dash is a bitch to get off...

    I have a HC1400 under my hood and 1/0 to the trunk, BRZ1700D@2ohms and MRP-F300@4ohms, and my voltage drops to 12.9 at full tilt while idling.

    As far as the numbers go, i need an HO alt as it is, my alt is a 120A alt, and my system draws ~200A

  22. xmax questions

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Maybe you should rephrase the "i want more frequency than a kicker L7 12" part.
    i want more frequency than a kicker L7 12 and louder as well. i think the BL covers that. i was just confused by the large xmax on the Q series

    no shit, that makes no sense whatsoever.....

    So what you're saying is that you want a sub with a broader frequency response curve, that also has more output SPL wise yes? L7s are garbage, they sound like shit in everything I've heard, i only know of one setup that was tolerable, and i actually designed the box for the shop that did the install for the guy. Either the Q OR the BL will both sound better and be louder than your L7, if you build the box right.....Currently I'm debating between Q and BL myself, then I'm debating between keeping trunk and going with a single 12, or saying fuck the trunk, i havent needed it in the past 3 years now, always have had 2 12s back there, and go with a single 15

  23. New amp, is it any good?

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    maxxsonics amps never do rated, good for the money though.

    would like to see some clamp scores on these or hifonics

    id love to test my actual output, but A. My voltage drops to 12.9 at full tilt while idling, and B. I don't have a clamp meter, just a Fluke 88...my grandfather, who's a retired electrician might though....if i can find one without buying one, ill do the tests.

    I want to see a gut shot. Doesnt it have 4 gauge inputs not 2 gauge like the BRZ 1700. The sides look identical almost to a BRZ 1200.

    I wonder what differences there really are on the inside. Is it CEA compliant like the BRZ line...I know it doesnt mean alot for actual numbers but part of me feels like they put a MB Quart case on a BRZ amp upped the rating a little and called it good.

    Kinda like how they have Autotek and Crunch under the Maxxsonics name...and that Mean Machine is 4000 with 4 gauge inputs. and the side of the board has two 70amp fuses identical to the brz1200

    In fact a quick look at Sonic electronics the sides of the MB quart 1500 BRZ1200 and MM4000 all have the same number and look identical. But they could still use different components inside right?

    if it weren't a bitch to get mine out id take a gut shot for ya, but it requires removing my back seat completely and all, and its too fucking hot for that.... my BRZ1700 takes 0ga knuconceptz wire.....

  25. full system amp

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    If you want a quality amp to do it all, youre going to have to spend a fair chunk of change to get it. Your best bet would be just get a 4/5ch for your doors (5ch if you wanna keep your center) and a mono for your subs. You could also run, i know this goes even farther from what you want, but a 4ch for the doors, a 1ch amp for your center speaker, and a monoblock for your sub(s) but now youre looking at 3 amps...

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