siucsaluki11
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Posts posted by siucsaluki11
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simply get a volt meter ( i got one $5 on ebay) and watch your voltage. im not sure whats considered the lowest safe safe voltage but prob mid to low 13's is as far as your want it to go (for stable eletrical) see where your at. . . if you can run 10k rms and you never see ur vlts go under 13 you dont need one ( super super exagerated and will never happen) but you get the point. get a volt meter and look at whats happeneing
Didnt feel like installing a voltage meter, but when i was setting everything up and checked my voltage blasting a 40Hz tone, full tilt, car idling, and voltage dropped to ~12.9, but that was at idle. I also dont have the big 3 done under my hood yet.
This is what i was thinking, like you said, so long as your voltage doesnt drop to dangerous levels, its not going to hurt anything....but there comes a point when your alt cant keep your batteries charged....
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My lancer has a 120A stock alt, and i have a HC1400 under the hood. Im going to be doing the big 3 as soon as i got the money.
Currently, i only have my BRZ1700.1D which is being ran at 2 ohms, and an MRP-F300 which is being ran at 4 ohms per channel. In the future, i think it would be nice to get some trunk space back, so i an contemplating just running a single 12 in a ported box with lots of power. But how much power can i go to, with just adding some big ass AGM batts in the back (my 1400 is under my hood) before i need to look at a high output alt? A HO alt for my car is about 450-600, and since its burried in the tiny engine bay beneath 2 other belt driven pumps, im going to have to pay someone to put this in most likely, making it a costly endeavor in all. But id like to be able to run 1700-2500w RMS, plus what im feeding my doors, and if i go up in power there, ill most likely be feeding more to my doors as well, which means even more current draw. So when do i really need to get a HO alt. As far as physics are concerned, i need one as it is, since my alt puts out 120A and my system draws ~200A at full tilt between my subs and mids/highs. So when is it necessary to go up to a HO alt?
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i dread the 10 year old HP desktop in the den, thing is old and slow, 1 gig of ram was a ton for when we got it, and it has that, lol.
Main computer i use is a 17" MacBook Pro [email protected] GHz/core 8G of ram (going to upgrade to 16G as soon as i can, protools sessions with lots of plugins makes it hiccup at times, same for abelton) and a 7200RPM 750G HDD. I have a Glyph 1T 7200RPM external, and a Focusrite audio interface that i use with my computer when I'm recording or producing.
I have a 17" HP with an i5 and 6G of ram thats a few years old now. And i have a 17" Toshiba that i forget the stats on, the AC port broke, so i need to have a friend solder a new one in for me and it'll be good to go.
At school i love the computers, iMacs in our labs (classrooms with computers) and powermacs in all the studios with protools HDX setups.
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Ya this topic mainly derived from my enclosure where I undersized the port area a lot and therefore port noise is a huge issue. So I mainly wanted to know how about I would be able to make a new enclosure with a great port that would maximize the subwoofers performance, mainly sound quality wise.The answers you got really are the main points that need to be made. Sound is different per person and dependent upon your ears...so I have never noticed louder scores when going from 14^2 to 16^2 to 22^2. What I have noticed is that the boxes become more and more peaky. "peaky" means a big hump in the frequency response just above the F3 point. A box being peaky is not caused by the port size (unless it is undersized and has too much compression), the tuning frequency vs. the box size vs. the driver parameters will determine the frequency response. High Q designs will have more peak. Usually works out great in a car where cabin gain boosts the lower frequencies. That is why you see car subs tuned 30-35 Hz, but home subs tuned down around 20 with drivers that have different t/s parameters (or amps with EQ on the lower end). I'm not sure if you're expecting more, or thinking that more port equals louder, it doesn't always unless the sub isn't given enough port to begin with. Some say port area to volume has zero connection whatsoever and maybe they will chime in.like i said, my first ported box, not enough port area, low scores and i forgot to mention the port noise. Built a new box with the right port area, and it did better on the meter, sounded louder and cleaner to my ears, and the annoying chuffing sound of the port was gone.
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you can't have different port areas and same lengths.....
which post are you referring to? OP said different port area and length. I said same net volume and tuning, different port area....so yeah, who you talking to exactly?
Its a generalized statement. This was posted on another forum and deleted. Almost the same sn, only thing was op talking about same lengths in that thread.
Net volume changes with occupation of port, thus tuning changes....
you don't know the difference between net volume and gross volume apparently.
Net volume means after everything is taken away, wood, bracing, sub displacement, port displacement, that is your net. Before all that is your gross volume.
The GROSS volume will change, but I'm talking about net volume remaining the same. So if net is same, and tuning, yes, port area and volume can change, since that will change the GROSS volume of the enclosure, not the NET volume.
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you can't have different port areas and same lengths.....
which post are you referring to? OP said different port area and length. I said same net volume and tuning, different port area....so yeah, who you talking to exactly?
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given everything else stays the same (such as net box volume, and tuning) the one with the larger port will have a peakier response with worse cone control away from tuning.
i went from a port that was WAY too small, to about 15in/cube and it made a world of difference.
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didn't read the thread, just woke up, and the xanax i ate at bedtime has yet to wear off (its prescribed guys) So I'm kin dad groggy...
But yes, port size makes a hug he difference.
In my blazer, i had a tiny port, hit a 135 on the TL. Built a new box, same amp, same internal volume, same tuning, but bigger port, score went up to 138-9. Built a new box, slightly bigger, and a bigger port still, went up to a 141.xx @37 HZ
Port size DOES matter, no matter what your gf may tell you.
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Do you think Alpine type R 12's would be ok in a t line box? Im about to build a sealed box for them, and experiment with either a ported or t-line with the rest of the MDF (I have a few sheets)
don't waste your time with a sealed box, just build a ported one....thats just what i would do, ill most likely never go back to sealed unless I'm doing a full SQ setup...
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My 37hz 12' T-line hits the 32nd notes without too much problems at all. the 64ths sounds a little sloppy, but who ever listens to music THAT fast.
The box sounds best to me on Dubstep. Tight, fast, and loud!
i listen to shit with 64ths, break core and really fast dnb, but mostly break core, venetian snares FTMFW
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Your dad dropped 15k on a gun. We obviouslyhave different hobbies.. If he had to repair that gun, he'd drop a few hundo. Im trying to help and answer your question. P.S. I dont care what your daddy makes.
yeah, i didn't fully get it either, that Kolar is nice though...gorgeous gun. Ive held over unders that cost upwards of 250k... And the beauty of that gun, he doesn't have to repairer it, once a year he sends it back up with WI where it was made, and it gets serviced, and that doesn't cost shit IIRC. When he gets done using it, just cleans it off and wipes it down.
And i wasn't saying look at me my daddy makes money....i was saying even to someone who has quite a nice income, the way i was raised at least, a few hundred isn't pocket change, like you made it sound like.
Also.. Lol at aq being around in 20 years
LOL at almost any company existing (aside from auto manufacturers, and now even they are at risk) 2 decades from now...
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Yes my old hifonics has been used daily, since 1987. To answer your basic question.. Most people dont buy authorized anymore (sadly!) And dont have a warranty to start with. Others realize that the average repair (if needed) is only a few hundred. Not that big a deal
must be nice to say a few hundred aint a big deal. Im a broke college student with about 75k in student loans at the moment, and it will be 100k by the time I'm done with school next may. (school I'm at is 25k/year) Aside from that, i know what my household income is...its over 200k....if you were to ask my dad, a few hundred isn't pocket change. Sure, he has it, but its not like he would want to spend it either (if it were him in this position)...then again, a few years back he dropped 15K on a Kolar 12ga....but still, he wouldn't say the cost of repairing an amp is ONLY a few hundred. He would say what the fuck, a few hundred? Why did i void my warranty....
It sure must be nice to have a few bills worth of pocket change at any given moment in time....
And even if your old amp has been used daily, from everything I've heard, they don't make amps like they did back then. Todays products are shit in comparison (mainstream stuff at least, not saying AQ and sundown and the likes, but kenwood is shit product and ill never give them my money again). My kenwood didn't even blow, its just on its death bed. Everyone i have heard from was shocked i got 3 years out of it, said they hardly got 6 months. My BRZ may have been a factory defect, or it very well may have been my electrical not being enough to support it at the time. But that is fixed now, and i know in the future what ill have to do if i run anything bigger.
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Its a valid question. I have amps here exceeding the 20 year old mark, never died.. You are doing something very wrong...
the only one that died of age was a shitty kenwood, after being used daily for 4 years, the rest were upgraded and replaced, or in the case of the RF, returned to its original owner. Did you use those amps every day for 20years? And my hifonics blew due to voltage drop. And ive fixed that. I was asking, knowing that amps can blow, how people can justify it. Any amp can blow, no matter how well you take care of it, there is always the chance of a manufacturer defect still. I have audio equipment at home that is older than i am, but not car audio stuff.
Like i said, i blew the BRZ cuz of low voltage, and the kenwood lasted 4 years, from everything ive heard, a lot of people said they shit out on them after a year or less, so i got lucky, it died of old age. It still works so long as i dont push it hard, but i just replaced it before it took a full shit on me.
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silicone....
I put a drill through a surround one day putting my subs in a new box i built before a comp, put the drill through the surround, threw silicone on it (inside and out)... this was 3 years ago...im still beating the shit out of them and they sound as good as ever.
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why in the hell would you put 4 10s in if you don't want loud bass? If you just want something in there, go with 2 10s, and some good speakers up front. I have an SQL setup in my car, equipment is in my sig. Its loud (for a trunk car built on a budget using 5 year old subs), but god damn does it sound good. Go with a solid front stage, no rear speakers, and a pair of 10s in your cargo area if you just want SQ. But 4 10s =/= Sound Quality install...
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reading this reminded me that they never sent the terminals that didnt come with my HC1400, i called C/S the day it arrived, said they would have them in the mail the next day, this was....wed or thurs...STILL NOT HERE...
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i dont know if anyone asked this, but are your grounds tight? paint sanded off? positive wire has tight connections from the lug on the front battery all the way to the terminal at the amp (this includes the fuse holder)?
yes, i sanded off my spot for my ground and put about 6 scores through the ring terminal to hold it down (wanted to make sure it never came out, 6 may be more, but i know i put at least 3 in it) My power wire is nice and tight on the battery, all the connections, the batt to fuse holder, fuse holder to dist block, dist block to amp, amp to gnd block, gnd block to gnd are all nice and tight... When the amp was going out it just cut off and cut on. The way its wired, if the ground was loose, my subs would have cut out as well, since their power comes from the same dist block (though each has its own fuse, which are also nice and tight) and their grounds are ran to the same grounding block, and they share the same ground from there. It really is the most confusing thing ever to me. I really can't figure out whats wrong with it, and really don't have the time to at the moment. Its currently working again, as of 6am this morning, and thats when i was confused. Until it started working again, it was similar to how my kenwood just died. Which is why i was thinking maybe it was on its way out, but now i haven't the slightest clue.
And please, don't ask me for pics of everything, i really don't have the time to pull my back seat out and the box out of the trunk and everything. Currently in 8 classes, 2 of which I've had a to write a paper for every class for.
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On the ride home from the train today, my amp worked without any hiccups.... wtf.... I figured an alpine should last at least 4 years....especially if it hasn't been overdriven... Idk whats going on with it, but its working again....Ill check that amp out, i was looking at a few cadence amps i found online priced between 170-200
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only ones I've had i would want to have been the RF, but it wasn't mine, and it was a decade old, so it wouldn't have mattered, and my current BRZ, which i wouldn't mind taking a look at its guts anyway.
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Got in my car today to drive to the train station, amp cut off and came back then cut off and came back, turned it down, then said fuck it, i need to wake up, so i blasted Cyberoptics - Pimpin, and it didn't cut out anymore. WTF? I think its just on its last leg....
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The real question is why do you keep blowing amps?
I have yet to truly blow an amp...I just bought new ones that were slightly better than the previous ones (RF NOT INCLUDED, IT WAS A LOAN) My kenwood lasted 3 years before it died, and my blaupunks worked when i took them out to put the kenwood in. My BRZ had a short somewhere in on the board according to customer service. My alpine 4ch that just died is 4 years old now. So i don't keep blowing amps, stfu and post something relevant.
Max gain and bass boost ftw lol.
My skar amp didn't have a warranty void, but all I'm not going to mess with the internals.
No, gain is never past 1/3 and bass boost is always turned off/all the way down, i don't intend to mess with the internals, but i don't want to void the warranty on my BRZ i just got back either.
The real question is why do you keep blowing amps?
Prob running it @.5 with no electrical upgrades
nope, never ran an amp below 2 ohms in any of my setups, so guess again.
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how can you guys do such a thing so easily. I understand how to do it, but i mean how can you just go into it like that? Every amp I've gotten (I've gone through 2 blaupunkts, 1 kenwood, an old RF i borrowed a while back from a friend, and now my Hifonics BRZ1700.1D) has had a sticker on the part you would take off to show off the amp guts that says in usually bold red writing, WARNING, WARRANTY VOID IF SEAL IS BROKEN or something along those lines.
Now, I've never had to warranty an amp till....a few weeks ago when my first BRZ shit out on me, but had i done something like that, i would have been shit out of luck. How can you guys justify saying fuck it, ill hope this doesn't shit out on me and have to be sent in for warranty?
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Yeah it sounds like your 4 channel may be toast then. If you have a buddies car to borrow pop it in their ride and see how it works if its anything different before you shell out the money on another amp only to find out it still has a problem with your car. Amp issues are a pain in the butt.
i wish i had a friend with a system....i also wish i didn't have to completely pull out my rear seat to get to my amps....its a bitch to put back in....
i may just have to shell out the dough in hopes that it is the issue. theres no way for me to wire the HU to my speakers...well, there is, but it would take more time than i have to spare at the moment.
EDIT: Now that we have unofficially confirmed my amp is TOAST, any suggestions in the 160 range? The hifonics ZRX1000.4 looks good, but i can't find reviews on it.
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The amps share a ground, they go to the same grounding block and are grounded to the same spot. Yes i checked that when i did the install, its a good ground. I doubt it is the HU since i loose my mids AND my highs, which are run off 2 separate sets of channels (l/r) from the HU itself (CDA9887), rather than running rear speakers, i ran 1 set to the mids, 1 for the highs. and i loose both at the same time. Its not even at a high volume. I turned the sub amp off at the HU (it doesn't power it down, just doesn't send it signal) and it still happens. It happens as low as 15/35 (and i can't go past 17 or it WILL happen), and the internal amp on the HU has been turned off since i installed it, I've never used the interal power amp once. It doesn't matter if the sub amp is on or not, the 4ch cuts out. The amp has been installed for about 3 years now in this car, and I've had subs along with it the whole time. Even when i had the BRZ and my stock battery, i killed my BRZ, but the 4ch stayed strong. i think years of voltage drops have finally taken their toll on my poor little alpine 4ch. Good thing i have a new battery under the hood. but that does me fuck all worth of good without mids and hits.
so when is a HO alt needed?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
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theres a fluke 88 in my car at almost all times. I have just about every tool i need to work on my shit in my car at all times for the most part. Especially since my rear seat doesnt fold, so i have to pull it out to get to my spare tire if i blow a tire.