micahmye
-
Posts
587 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by micahmye
-
-
Usually in my experience they seal themselves. You could probably seal them with resin or caulk, but that could end up with really messy threads on the bolt. Bolts are really easy to use as long as you use them with ring terminals.
Ring terminals look like this:
Make sure if you are using 1/4 inch bolts that you drill a 1/4 inch hole, even a 1/16 of a inch smaller is okay as long as the bolt is snug so there is no air leak.
-
I will be there!
-
Sweet setup, dude where did you get that engine knob? how'd you set it up? that's really cool.
-
Fuckin' good movie period
-
No problem, glad to help
-
I was opening my engine on my accord up and I found a mcdonalds large fry box under the engine bonnet
-
yeah that chart is more or less used to show what power is present at the given ohm load. (i tried taking that bottom white section out...but it's stuck everywhere lol). it doesnt show what an amp is capable of. nor power after box rise. if you KNOW your amp can produce the power at the given impedance, then imo using the chart is better than blindly turning the gain if you dont have an oscope to use.
Here's the chart without the white bro.
-
If math isn't your thing do you really want to go into financial management?
Not bashing, just my .02...
-
-
haha, SMD is to big! xP
-
It might work if you have gravel stuck to your car
-
Good scores dude, that wall in the 4 runner is tits. I woulda thought that'd have better scores. But it sure is a nice build.
P.S. Is that car in the 6th pic down a Yaris? It looks kinda funky.
-
all cd should be musical. no test tones allowed. termlab with meter on the dash
car 1 - toyota vios with 2pcs dc2000.1 and 1pc dc lvl4xl 10" in the trunk - 144.6db
car 2 - honda crv with 2pcs dc 3000.1 and 1pc dc lvl5 18" in the cabbin non wall - 149.9db
car 3 - toyota vios with 2pcs dc2000.1 and 1pc fi 12" in the trunk - 146.5db
car 4 - toyota 4tuner 3rd row wall with rf 4000.1 and 2pcs dc lvl4xl 15" - 146.8
Good scores dude, that wall in the 4 runner is tits. I woulda thought that'd have better scores. But it sure is a nice build.
-
This is a great build BTW. I gotta pick myself up some of that urethane stuff. My local Ace hardware doesn't have it and I need it for my door pods on teh civic.
Steve, how'd you get the car back anyhow? Was it just sittin' somewhere and the cops found it?
-
Let me know if this doesn't go through, I'll grab it from ya.
-
I have 2 18" DC LVL5's for daily and i love them.
The owner of DC, Rusty, is really easy to get ahold of and is a really nice guy. He has a user account here on the forum.
I wanted BTL's but Scott was very hard to get ahold of in my case too... I'm glad I went with DC, perfect customer service with a great product too.
-
Hahaha, I'd like to see you try to fit a 1/4 inch jack into your ipod. You should be looking for a 3.5mm to RCA cable not a 1/4 inch to RCA cable
1/4 inch RCA cable:
3.5mm to RCA cable:
-
Really helpful stuff Steve. Thanks!
Anybody know where I can get the discs mentioned in the article?
-
No if I'm correct it's for doing exactly what I was saying about running two runs of 4 gauge from the battery.
In the 06 models of the HCCA the manual said that you could use either one.
Your right dude, The funny thing is that the fuse holder included has only two 4ga terminals (in/out). I want to feed it 2 4ga feeds but theres only one fuse, I have KnuKonceptz 4ga from the batteries and if you know KnuKonceptz their wiring is pretty thick and there is no way I can fit two 4ga leads in that 4ga terminal of the fuse holder.
In the manual it says 250amp fuse is recommended. which is what it comes with, but I would think I should utilize both sets of power terminals which means to me I need to fuse both positive lines. Which means I need another fuse holder, Am I correct?
-
why?...fusing is important
I would expect them to include the proper fusing for their amplifiers with the amplifiers or tell me up front that I will need to order a extra fuse holder because they are only including one and I will need two.
Sorry, I live on a island in the pacific ocean so shipping takes forever and when I have setbacks like this that could have been avoided it's kinda annoying haha.
Thanks guys for the help!
-
yes
Damn, I'm starting to regret getting these Orion amps, anyone else have experience with them?
-
put a fuse on any and all power wires
That's what I would think, thing is they only include one fuse holder and fuse with each amplifier, the included fuse is 250amp.
Do I need to buy another fuse holder for each amp?
-
Alright so I have two Orion D5000's that I bought new, If you are familiar with these amps they have 4 4ga power terminals, 2 positive and 2 negative.
Also the fuse holder is external from the amp, its a ANL type fuse holder and it is 4ga also, My question is, how do I wire the fuse?
Should I put the fuse on one of the positive wires and and one of them will be straight through and the other one fused?
It's confusing because I would think that for protection you would want the whole positive power feed fused and not just one of the power leads because if there was any kind of electrical fault/failure you would want the fuse to burn, but if I use the config I stated above, there will still be a power feed even if the fuse were to burn.
Let me know what you guys think.
-
there is 2 DC LVL5 18s forsale here....
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/s...read.php?t=7870
Dude you're the best, that's a good deal. I'll work with the guy.
Know anywhere I can get enclosure specs for the DC lvl5 18's?
Their site doesn't have that info.
brass bolts as terminals?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Also if you are soldiering ring terminals this topic helped me out alot: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=6399