ant the ninja

My first amp was a 4channel boss 800w amp, I had both channels bridged at 2ohms, each sub seeing 400wrms or something like that because it wasnt probably pushing nearly that much being a boss and that thing used to get so damn hot it was ridiculous. I think those amps just run hot.

Still waiting for a PM back from him, thanks for looking out though. Hmm, Ill let you know. Not sure if I want factory reps though.

I dont care what brand or what they look like. I need atleast two, but four would be better. Kinda tight budget so let me know if anyone has anything. thanks

This. I'd say you've got a pretty strong alt/batt running there.

Really? No one knows?

This isnt my build or anything but I cannot find that song thats played through out the video and I am going crazy. Any help? (Got it from here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/77722-elemental-design-13av2/page__gopid__1077536entry1077536 )

I have the subs hooked up in 2ohms so only have I set of wires running out of the box into the amp so Its will split the 950x1 to 475x2

Alright Ill probably end up buying the ap1500, seems like it would be the most wattage for the cheapest at 475x2.

I really like the price of the audiopipe but you said its a current hog, bad idea since its stock electrical with a deep cycle battery and 4 guage running from the amp?

Looking to push 1000wrms at 2ohms. I'd rather not spend anymore than 200, the only amp I have seen for that cheap would be the audiopipe 1500 but I havent heard much about these, any good?

Are you sure your actually pushing 1800 to it? I wouldnt go over the RMS, its 2000w peak not RMS.

I wouldnt push 2000w to that sub, Id max at 1000rms.

Single, running them at 2ohms

Change of plans, going sealed instead of ported and I Just bought two Powerbass M154's. Each speaker needs at least 3.75 cu ft internal volume, So I would be looking at at least an 8cu ft box correct? So far the dims I came up with on the rockford box builder are h20 x w35 x d24 = 8.07 cu ft, Now am I supposed to multiply all those numbers and divide by 1728? That comes out to 16,800/1728 = 9.72, Now I dont understand what to do next, what does 9.72 mean?

haha sorry, I just ran out and measure the amount of space I had to work with, I though thats what I was supposed to do.

This is great, Im not building it just yet but within the next 2 months. How much am I looking at with everything would you think? minus all the power tools. I have 34L 45W 19H... I can go higher on height but Id rather not cover my rear window

Anything would help, both would be best but anything anyone could offer would be great. Oh I forgot to mention, I fired these up in the sealed box once and they werent half as loud as they were firing back. dont know if that makes any difference.

Ive never built a box before. Its for two Orion XTR3 15's (svc) and an Alpine MRP-500. Its wired to 2ohms getting 250rms per sub. (until I upgrade) I have litterely no idea where to begin or what to buy or anything. My girlfriends father is going to help me build, he has pretty general knowledge on woodwork and things like that. These speakers are over 10 years old and are currently in a sealed box, couldnt tell you anything at all about the box, they were my brothers and he traded his subs for them a long long time ago. They hit really hard for only getting 500 watts but I feel like I could get more out of them with a ported box and a 1000w amp which is coming eventually. its for a 2002 ford explorer with the third row down. heres the specs for the subs. They are the 15 svc/dvc All I know is I want ported. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Not sure this is the right place to ask but I have no idea what to do. I have a 2002 explorer xlt and about a week ago my door ajar light went on and will not shut off and my dome lights stay on until about 10mph. This is what happens. Car off, Dome lights off (dimmer switch off), Driver side door locks/mirror button work, door ajar goes away. Car off, Dome lights on (dimmer switch on), Driver side door locks/mirror button doesn't work and door ajar stays on. Car on, Dome lights on or off, Driver side door locks/mirror button do not work. I tried the WD-40 in the latches trick to no avail. I checked the ground wire in the rubber part of the door and it looks like it was spliced and reattached from a previous owner because I haven't touched it. Should I check the splicing and see if something disconnected or could there be another reason this is happening? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I was always told never mix different kinds of subs...and your running them at different wattages. I'd pick one (MTX over sony any day) and use that but whatever floats your boat. Not bad for a starter system I guess ha.

Wow thats pretty cheap for a 0/1 kit. Definitely bookmarking that and buying it after the holidays, thanks.

Thanks guys, I plan on doing the big 3 soon and upgrading the wires as soon as the funds come in. Broke at the moment :censored: Edit: Yeah I know that, ill be needing a new battery soon anyway. I doubt this one will make it through the winter. As soon as I get the money Im going to do a complete overhaul.

Yeah Ive heard caps are a waste of time, and its 500rms they dim at, 250rms per sub. I had a 10" boston acoustic in there before I threw my old 15s in and It didnt dim at all. The BA ran at 2ohms, 500rms too.

As of right now 8 gauge. I would be upping to 4 with this amp though.

Im extremely new to this car audio scene but I have a 2002 ford explorer, stock electrical. I have polks in all 4 doors running off the headunit and two 15' Orion XTR3's, extremely old ha. I have them running off the Alpine MP500 and it slams at at only 250rms to each sub at 2ohms but I was thinking about getting the audiopipe AP15001D, good or bad idea with stock electrical and no cap? I get a small amount of dim when the bass hits from the mp500, again Im very new at this so any help would be appreciated.