Lite-On

Thanks for your reply :-) So you had good experience with the W7's? Atm my box (around 70L), is in the trunk, nothing special but it doesn't hit the lower lows (<30Hz). So with chopped and screwed, the sub has tons tons of excursion but there is almost no sound in the cabin, that's the reason why I have mixed feelings with a ported design. I never tried a larger box like 3.5 cubes on this sub. But i'm sure that it will sound completely different when the sub is under the parcel shelf, and completely sealed off so no sound can leak to the trunk. I'm still thinking about doing a new ported build, or bandpass - but I don't think I have the space for a bandpass. I would like to hide the box under the parcel shelf, ported through the rear seat or ported in the parcel shelf. I'm having around ~6 cubes of unused space, so in case I go with a ported design... space isn't an issue. Did you ever tried other designs on w7's, like the 4th order bandpass? If I go ported - what kind of port would you recommend? With a ported design, i'm thinking to do 2 round ports mounted in the parcel shelf. How large do I need to make the port(s) in order to let it move lots of air :-)

Hi all, I'm currently busy with a new build in my '63 Pontiac. I'm starting with moving the 6,5" to the front, but after that i'm going to make a new box which I would like to place under the parcel shelf. I have a lot of unused space right there, and would like to keep space in my trunk - so I thought..... why not building a box under the parcel shelf, and seal it off from the trunk :-) The sub i'm using is a JL 13w7. I don't want to discuss on this sub, as i'm quite happy with it Well, i'm still not sure what kind of box i'm going to use. I would like to have decent SQ - it doesn't need to get stupid loud, but it would be great if it could by a ESPL setup or something like that. For now i'm powering the sub with only 400 to 500 wRMS - I know it's quite low, but that will do it for now. I'm now playing with a standard ported box (JL specs) dropped in the trunk, but I don't like how it's playing the lows in my car. This box is tuned around 35Hz. With my new box i'm looking for something that plays the lows a bit better, but it also needs to do play the higher end (like 40Hz). Not sure if that's possible, but i'm going to give it a try, as I play all kind of music (rap, top40, chillout/lounge, drum 'n bass, dubstep, metal etc.). I like to have clean bass with all kinds of music. A T-Line will become to big... that's something I already know. But i'm also thinking about doing a 4th order bandpass, ported through the rear seat. But the big question with a 4th order is..... will ~ 160 liters (5.7 cuft) of space be enough do to a simple 4th order which is ported through the rear seat? With a sealed box I think i'm going to loose a lot of output power isn't it?

Yeah I know, but this shouldn't be a real problem. I have the time for it, and I know that it's my first time so thing could go wrong. Well, in that case i'll have to start over :-) I'd like to try new things hehe. I have more than enough experience with wood stuff, but fireglass is a different story in this case. It's not really the fiberglass I need help with.... it's more the kick panel itself. I've never heard them before, so I was more curious how to midbass will come out in a "smaller" enclosure. I've read on this forum that good middbass could be hard to achieve in a small kickpanel.

Hello all, I'm starting to do a new build in my 63 Pontiac. Atm i'm using 2x 6,5" speakers which are in a ported box mounted under the parcel shelf. Sounds pretty good, but as it's using my space very inefficient, I would like to put them up front. This will be my first fiberglass project, so I need some help of you guys :-) As i'm aiming for a SQ / ESPL setup, I would like to have some midbass (say 80Hz or a little lower). Can this be achieved in a "small" kickpanel? If not, are there any tricks to optimize the midbass so that has at least some of it? :-) They are currently in a pretty bad designed ported box, which is around 25L (0.88 cu ft), tuned to ~70Hz, running on 60W RMS. The composet is a Phonocar 2/805 Special Edition. For now it's still underpowered, but I probably add more power in the future. I would like to make something like this: As I want to keep the car original, I don't want to cut in the doors. So kick panels are for me the only option. Once this little project is finished, i'm going to try building a new sub box which i'm going to place under the parcel shelf - that way I've got some space in the trunk again :-)

I'm still busy with my car and don't have a big amp (aprox 250w rms @ 3 ohm). I've tested the box in my garage with a PSU to power my little amp, so no big output yet. Maybe i will post some garage videos haha

Little update: I've build this box in the past 3 days. I didn't have the right tools for making nice 45 corners, but still it aint bad for my first t-line box. Its sounding very great for it's size! Very clean bass from 25Hz to 40Hz! I'm very impressed, so more t-line for me in the future

Hi all Still busy with trying all kind of T-Line designs. I've sketched this quick basic T-Line in a few minutes: Tuning will be around +/-35Hz. Box will be around 7,95 cu. ft. Port size is around 14,5 x 8,56 inch. The 13W7 sub will be used This box is a box smaller then my other designed 1/4 wave and tapered t-line enclosures which didn't fit well in my car. Will this box sound great for it's size?

Thanks for your reply. So this is not that bad for a first design? Do you think that this one will hit clean low bass?

Hi All, I've tried a few days ago to design a t-line for my JL Audio 13w7. Here's my little sketch: Tuning is around 34Hz - 35Hz Will this one work? Many thanks!

Thanks for the reply's The AQ1200 will power my 13w7 soon =D Does anyone know a nice amp to power my Phonocar 2/805 door speakers. They are rated at 100W RMS each, so i'm looking for an 2 of 4 channel amp with at least 100W rms at 4 ohm.

I'm still using stock electronic, but i have plans to upgrade to 2x 200A alternators which should be enough to power that AQ2200 or AQ3500. I know that 2400rms is to much for a 13w7, i think i'm going to push safely 1500rms to it. Maybe i'm gonna sell that 13w7 in some month's or years, and get a BTL or Audioque sub... that's the reason for buying a bigger amp So it's 'safe' to run 0,7 ohm daily on that AQ2200 amp? How about the sound quality, does that change while running at 0,7 ohm? EDIT: 1500w RMS to much for a w7? What about 1250w RMS? I'm currently pushing around 500w RMS to it = way underpowered

Hi All, I'm still looking for a new amp with enough juice to power my 2 year's old JL 13w7. I like to push ~1500W RMS to that sub. The AQ2200 amp has 2200W RMS+ @ 1 ohm, but is it possible to wire that amp @ 0,7 ohm? My sub has dual 1,5 ohm coils, so it can be wired @ 3 ohm, or @ 0,7 ohm. I don't think that the AQ2200 and AQ3500 amp deliver enough power @ 3 ohm load, so the only option is to wire the sub @ 0,7 ohm

Damn, that's really slappin! Nice work

BTL of DD for sure!

I'm using the recommended ported box of the JL audio website. (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs_enclusure.php?series_id=10) It's around 2.375 cu. ft. / 67.3 liters, tuned +/- 35Hz (but I think it's a bit higher tuned) My box sucks, cuz it has some a crappy air leaks (taped it right now ). Currently i'm designingan T-Line box (still working on the sketchup). I will post more specs of the box later in the T-Line topic