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cc_audio

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  1. here's a secret :spiteful: ............

    go to your local welding supply shop

    their 1/0 is solid copper, 1000+ straind, more flexable, holds more current, and the sheathing is thinner and better

    its is only about 2.00 - 2.50 a foot.

    The quality is better than ANY car audio wire you will ever find !!!

    besides your power wire is not the place to cut corners!!!!!!! :01nocomment8so:

    a tip from one on the creative minds at:

    ULTIMATE AUTOSOUND

    1000 strand count huh? 4000 is like the bare minimum for good 1/0. The welding wire from our supply store sucks. It's oversized, but it isn't very flexible and has less strands that are bigger and has a real heavy/thick casing. Not very good stuff and thats still 2.00 a foot. I'd rather have Knu Clad. Besides already got what I needed.

  2. just keep watching it... they come in stock like daily.. but they sell out quickly

    Great thing about that site is the Email notification if item comes in stock. Look on the page and there will be a notification button you can click, all you have to do is make an account. Although, I don't think that site is authorized, which means no factory warranty :( , but i could be wrong, they offer a protection plan that cost extra, but if they drop that item I think your SOL. They only replace if they have some in stock. Another drawback. Hell of a deal though.

  3. has that z1 ever been repaired before?

    Hell yes. Repaired and working like a champ. I wouldn't have bought it if it wasn't already repaired. Too risky with first gens. Were they closing those AP3000.1 out? I have never seen one sell that cheap, especially new. Too bad you missed it. That was a deal.

  4. im looking at 2 of the earthquake amps one looks good just got back from repair 400to500 range, the other looks like ass and has never has problems way less shipped. the vfl around same price as the 1st amp new. still thinking about your dd amp to. im just scared IF it does mess up im gonna pay out the ass for repair.

    Well there's no real way to dodge paying out the ass when buying used amps, if something should break. Something about used budget buying is that you buy a lot of amp for not a lot of money. If it works the entire time you own it, then the deal is great. But if it breaks your basically fucked, no matter what you buy. I like to do the whole used thing before spending a super amount on a new amp w/ warranty. Maybe I just have good luck, because nothing has broke on me, yet. Do you have the electrical to run 3k? You seem real concerned about breaking your shit. Just make sure you electrical is up to par and buy the used amp that fits your needs. When buying cheap, all you can do is hope it doesn't break. And if it does it'll prolly be about the same cost for any of those amps. Still, my vote is AB before Earthquake, or DD Z1 ;) Should have vid up sometime soon with Z1, if weather permits.

  5. ok i got my mind set on a couple but have no knowledge on either i need close to 3k rms and really dont wanna go over 500 picked up or delivered.

    here is #1 the ph10000w/d1

    http://www.earthquakesound.com/powerhouse_amplifiers.htm

    here is #2 any info on this one, is it worth 400 to 500, does it really do rated power?

    http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/American_Bass_VFL_200.1/

    I would recommend the AB amps way before Earthquake. Had a VFL400.1 and it was amazing. Never got to push it to the full 4kw, though. My electrical and subs are never good enough to crank up the amps I run. Haha. Like I said, my friend has the PHD5000 and it dumps about 2500W with massive current pull. Way more current pull than an AB amp. The earthquake is still working as far as I know and he puts it through hell everyday with crazy voltage drops and untouchable heat. I have never heard anything bad about the AB amps. Both are solid. AB amps are underated in power (will do an easy 3kw rms) and a lot more efficient. I would say a used ABVFL200.1 in real good condition was worth $400. Oh, and you can run those SOBs all day at .5ohms. AB way before earthquake. But, both are solid amps. Price makes the difference. My friend's name is Jason, he got the amp at the Pawn shop from my advice for $200. Has some scuffs and a missing mounting tab but well worth the $200. I would say a PH10000 would be a good buy at $450-550 depending on condition. Hope this helps.

  6. Had that happen to me. The problem is when it tips it kicks your feet out so you land on shit like your neck and upper back. It was construction and I was on second step from top on a 16ft ladder. One side sang into the dirt a little and thats all it took. The top of the ladder took my feet out and I landed on the side of the ladder on my back and managed to break most of the fiberglass. Ladder was ruined and I had briuse lines and scabs on my back for weeks. Atleast the boss let me have the next two days off. Not funny at all, but he's just asking for it. If you were a nice guy you should go out there and hold it for him. :P

  7. I don't know why you even have a poll. Pay the lawyer and get that fuckin cop thrown in jail where he belongs. And take noob with you. Witnesses are always awesome to have in court. Write down and document everything he did in proper english, write down what the cop said word for word, judges hate it when police are uncivil. And then have you and noob rehearse it so your stories are exactly the same. Then give it to the lawyer. If you're lucky he won't show in court, if he does. Get his ASS fired!, or atleast suspended. And don't do that again!! Fuck the police!! If that story is 100% accurate, then chances are greatly in your favor.

  8. Throw another amp in there. If the other amp sounds like shit too then its something with your head unit. I doubt it's the box, it doesn't sound like a box issue especially a sealed box. You said it made the minimum 200mv. That is a terribly low input level. Low input level signal requires a cranked gain. Cranked gain equals CLIPPING and DISTORTION. H/U may be your problem or you amp is fucked. More than likely it sounds like your low level input voltage is too low. Had that problem a long time ago when I was a nube and still using stocks off of the deck and then trying to run two big sub amps with a Y'ed 500mv signal. Everything tested okay until I played it. Then the subs were working but sounded aweful and were moving a lot with barely any sound. Line driver fixed it for me. Might need to look into that.

  9. Hate yellow tops. The JL of batteries, I think. Don't get enough for what you pay. Shoulda got a Kinetik or Powermaster, that shit wouldn't of happened. Are you sure the voltage regulator in you PM charger isn't bad. I know Kinetiks are know to blowup and expand like a balloon with prolonged 15-16volt charging. Possibly overcharged your yellow top with a bad PM charger. I would investigate the charger before risking those other PM batts.

  10. Employee discounts are crazy. I have a few connections there as well, due to friend working there. Downloading tones is not what you want to do. Get a REAL CD from work with those test tones, I think BB caries Bass Freq which is what I use for setting gains. I HATE prefab boxes. Just cause you can buy one and get a deal doesn't mean you should. Prefab = Garbage. Four Typre R's will get stupid loud and nothing wrong with alpine amps. If you do get two more(which you should with those prices) build a correct box for them. Just as easy to run four amps as it is one. Unless you're running four amps on one sub, then its tricky. You might wanna run 4gauge aswell, 8 gauge is kinda small. How did you end up with all Alpine except the H/U. Thats their best shit. I would get a nice alpine H/U with three sets of outputs. Can't really guess DB's, all depends on the box and car acoustics, but it will be way louder. First set up your system like it is and see if you can't get your volume back without clipping or distortion.

  11. but hopefully it will satisfy me enough to be the last.

    Good luck with that. I say that everytime I start a new install. It looks very clean, as much as I despise JL they have their place. I think it will work out well for you. You should definately do the extra work and paint that bitch. It would look much better. Very nice, keep the pics a coming. By the way, once you start working with fiberglass well, you are no longer a noob really. Noobs use caulk to seal their box after they build it without glue and run power wire through the door jamb. Thats a noob. :rolleyes:

  12. Yeah but I work at computer Geek Squad so no I'm not certified for car audio.

    I set it at 29.5 volts so that if I hit 35 on my volume control, it won't hit very far past 31.6 (which is 500w @ 2ohms)....

    I have never worked with a headunit that can max its volume and not clip. Chances are if you are turning it to 35 out of 35 you're sending a clipped signal to your amps. Either use an O-scope, (you may be able to get one through best buy, might already have one there) or turn your head unit to 32-33 and use that as you highest volume level, then set your gains with you H/U eq flat. I never use headunit gain or bass boost. I think my H/U bassboost is around 65 hertz (useless). Then then pop in a -3 or 0db (preferably -3) 50hertz tone and set to about 32-33ACVolts. Music won't demand as much as a tone. Then see if everything is working like you want. If you cannot achieve 32-33V then turn gain down and then take BassBoost to +6db (half) and turn up gains until you reach 32-33. I think amp BB remote's are useless. Unless its a frequency booster like RF amps or if you have an RCA inline gain nob, or 360.2. What is your exact enclosure specs? It is always possible that you box isn't up to par.

  13. i love my amps, and the looks, but i can say i do wish they made them wider and shorter so they would be eaiser to mount, what good does a 3.5foot amp have? does it disapate heat better being skinny and long or just look better....

    Thats a big reason why I liked mine so much, they are very sexy. That heat thing may have a big part in it. I do not recall mine every being hot and I would run that thing all day, my Z1 however gets hot really fast.

  14. sounds like someone wasnt careful with their amps?... ive ran both the memphis mojo and 300.4 for over a year now and i have yet to break one of the amps, very strong and get the job done very well.... and all i can see is others messing them up, dont yall read directions anymore? or just assume you know what youre doing lol

    Mine lasted six months before I sold it. It didn't like subsonic filter being off and went into protect. Turn it on and it started working perfect. Prolly my most favorite amp but god damn was it touchy. But they are known for that kind of shit.

  15. no one?!?

    Looks like its going good. More pics!!! What subs are you going to be running? I have that same table saw. Do you like your's cause I hate mine. You removed the stand too, the stand was a REAL pile of shit. Also, do you have a fan to cool those amps. Usually not a good idea to box in amps with big heat sinks without a fan. Looks good and Do Work!

  16. Memphis amps are like women. They are beautiful, powerful, and Incredibly sensitive. I fucking hated my Mojo and loved it at the same time. Would dish out unreal power and then go into protect FOR NO FUCKING REASON!!! Hope he has better luck cause the sure are purty.

  17. "Team America FUCK YEAH!"

    Oh wait wrong post

    I mean your bestfriends new girlfriend is hot as hell and flirting with you FUCK THAT!

    I broke my hand punching some black guy in the face while trying to break into my car last week FUCK THAT!

    I wired up my entire car and spent hours cleaning and hiding wires and double; triple checking EVERYTHING making it absolutley perfect, but when car is started nothing turns on FUCK THAT!

  18. All my friends are like that. They bullshit just to be a better at whatever is being discussed. I think jealousy can play a part in it too. I wish I had friends that knew as much about car audio as I do. I can't teach them anything. I can barely keep them from running a GODDAMN power wire through the GODDAMN door!! Not only are my friends like that, the people who work at the local stereo shop do it too. Some stories about the W7 is the world record holder for loudest sub and did a 180db. I was talking to the installer (hoping to make a knowledgable friend). I told him I had a Solo X. He immediately started down talking it saying they are know for horrible SQ. He claimed to have installed two 15"s......er... :01nocomment8so: Thats all I needed before my idiot meter went off.

    And I can't get a fucking job there!!!! I need to move. Anyone live near East Dubuque, IL that knows a thing or two about car audio. I'm all alone out here and need a friend!! :friends:

  19. I purchased a Kinetik HC2400 from him. It was a pretty good deal and he was very flexible on the price. He was very easy to work with. I had a little problem with paypal and he was very patient, prolly more patient then I was. Haha. He shipped out very quickly. It arrived before I was ready for it which is always a good thing. I would recommend him to anyone and would buy from again. Only suggestion would be to package a little better next time. If it weren't a battery anything else might have broke. Everything went well. An A+ Transaction! Thanks!

    -Cody

    -cc_audio

  20. Garage sales are also a great place to find deals. My newest haul was a Harmon Kardon P2000 amplifier BNIB for $10. The guy didn't know what it was. He got it for christmas and didn't have a use for a crossover." ?!!!? He called it a crossover. I also have the nicest set of golf clubs ever seen for a total of $25. I have bought a pair of 12" MTX 6000 in a box with a plexi window for $20 at Goodwill that I later sold for $80. I usually look for cabinet speakers and spend about 10 for a pair. Amazing deals at Garage sales. JL 13W1 in JL box with Alpine MRP-M650 all mint for $100 talked down to $80 then sold for $300. I made a lot of money the last two years just stopping at garage sales. Anytime you see one STOP, there are all kinds of treasures to be had. Oh, when you spend $25 on golf clubs, you don't feel to bad when you break them. I just broke my Big Bertha Fusion 3 wood. Who new it cost over $200 to replace. Gotta love Garage Sales!!!

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