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cc_audio

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Posts posted by cc_audio

  1. You can call that your retirement fund. Haha. That way in a couple years when you are too old for big toys you can roll wit mad style and race the old people for your prescriptions. That will be the most kickass ride at the old folks home. Make sure you leave some kind of basket. That way you can go to Walmart and pick up some Lightning Audio, that shit is way better than FI. :D

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  2. Have you seen Frankie Rio's setups? Some of his walls were built all the way into the trunk. Not enough air space, tiny port area, etc and he was breaking 160. Meade also had VERY LITTLE port area and "insufficient" space for his 18s, but he's obviously doing well.

    I say do a clamshell. My next one is gonna be 16 10s in my cruiser, ported clamshell starting soon. Just remember it doesn't have to look good on paper for it to work.

    Man, I reread my post and it sounds like I'm agianst ported. That's not what I wanted to say at all. I must have wrote that in the morning. Some parts didn't even make sense. I was out of it today I tell you. Let me try again with the basics.

    1) Wall off car with clamshell if possible.

    2) Use every square inch of useable space in backseat and trunk.

    3) Fight for as much port area as your subs will allow, clamshell if possible

    4) Leave just enough room for batts and amps

    5) Tune low, I would recommend keeping close to your subs Fs. Hate to unload and blow 16 subs cause thats a lot of paper weights.

    Oh yeah, and what subs are you using exactly. I hope its all clear now. ...and post lots of pics

  3. Even 16 ported would be great. I don't know if a clamshell is really what you want. They work well in vans and SUV's do to their square interior. A clamshell has to have an even internal airspace for proper tuning (hard to describe). I think a wall that goes as far into the trunk as you can. Just shoot for as much box space as possible. i think you'll find the most difficult is getting enough port area amongst all those subs. What's the Fs on those subs? I would keep it pretty close to whatever that is. What subs are you using? I just assumed "hfi" was hifonics but I could be wrong. I think you may have to make a lot of mounting rings and fiberglass them in to fit all those subs in such limited space. Do work son! and post lots of pics. Should be a crazy build if you do decide to take the plunge.

  4. Fuck yeah you can! :clapping: Anything is possible. If you really want something then do it. You can't possibly shut down this idea. Have you seen the T3 Van with like 360 speakers. If you really want to and like a challenge then do it. Everyone is always looking for that extreme ride, and 16 12"s in a trunk is pretty crazy. DO IT!! :aggressive: ...and post lots of pics. Should be LOUD. Definately put a "Power from the Gods" sticker in your back window. ;)

  5. ya definatly got a rep for smoking but I had one that we removed the rear and stuck fans on it, its wired at 1 ohm with 3 2150s on it and a powermaster alt. its i think around 2 years running now with no probs

    Thats better. I like these comments. Haha. Everyone was really negative. I'll have an HC1400(underhood) and an hc1800 and hc2400 in the trunk with a 170amp alt with 15.5 MLA module so hopefully thats enough for electrical. I only need about 4000W at most so, I'm hoping it all works out. The amp sure is pretty though. Way sexier internals than my Memphis 4kw.

  6. It arrived. Thought I'd throw some pictures of the amp and the repair reciept. Also, what I plan to do to it.

    P1010175.jpg

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    The driver board was repaired. Was that the only problem with these amps?

    P1010162.jpg

    Gonna add some plexi to show off these beautiful internals.

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    Got his for $3 on ebay brand new. Should keep the amp ice cold for me.

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  7. Could you be specific on what the problems were with these amps? Was it one recurring problem that needed to be fixed because the amp did have something replaced. Output drive I think but not sure. Its a gorgous amp and i can't imagine too many other problems since the Z1 and Z1a have the same board. You guys are scaring me here. :blink: Give me some more details about problems since the amp is already on the way.

  8. Well, my friend picked up a Crunch Powerzone 1500.1 amp on ebay Brand New for $125. I ran it in my car for about a month on stock electrical, while I was shopping for my 4kw and kinetiks, and it went down to 10V and never even thought of protect. It only put out like 1200W before clipping so its a little over-rated. But pretty rock solid and cheap. Never had problems with any crunch amps. Hope this helps.

  9. I just purchased a DD Z1 amp first generation, that has been repaired before breaking by Ohio center for amp repair. What kind of reliablity can I expect from their work? I have reciept as proof of repair work and what Scott at Ohio amp repair replaced. I will post pics once it arrives if there's any interest. I paid $575, it is in mint condition (missing two speaker terminal screws). He had two and he was selling because he got two Cactus 7kw to replace to run his two 12" DD Z woofers. He sent pics as proof. He might even be on this forum, not sure though. All I want to know is how reliable this amp will be. Can I really expect 5000W+ plus without it going into protect? Will have an MLA module shortly for 15-15.5 volts.

  10. Dynamat F@(ked my car. :o Instead of flexing the whole trunk deck, it just sent all the force to my hinges. Lets just say they couldn't take it. Haha. Now my trunk really flexes. You know thats gotta be a DB loss. I've also had to reset my sunroof in its tracks about eight times. Before the dynamat, my spoiler mounts snapped several times, and had to be glued, and then replaced, and then custom made from metal. I would never skip on the dynamat or any sound dampening matarial. Single 12" Solo X and Memphis 4kw pushing 3500W did this. Also put a piece of rubber under my rearview mirror mounts (attaches to roof not windshield) and locktited all screws and bolts. The mirrors outside the car are useless when bassing, but the rearview is still useable. :P

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  11. I was doing my daily dose of ebay deal searching and found this.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

    In the auction it says "It is in good shape, and has never seen more than 10k watts. "

    I thought that was funny to hear. You never hear, its only seen 10,000W is all, she's barely broken in. :huh: I really want that woofer but I don't think I could ever drop nine bills on a woofer, but I'm pretty sure I'd never be able to afford the power to blow it. Someone should buy that and let me hear it. :) That magnet is incredible and the DD website specs are pretty funny themselves. What a woofer!

  12. I just blew a couple of those exact IMPP woofers a couple weeks ago. My friend had clipped them one to many times so they were real scratchy and one had really brittle tinsels. So, I blew them with an RF 501bd. They lived through hell in my friends ghetto ass install. He had a cut up extension cord for power and ground from battery. :o Aughhh!!! :o They were pretty tough, but no match for RF power ;)

    Good luck with install.

  13. That is sorta what I'm finding out. I just assumed it would be something more loose and fluffy. The kicker manual says to put chicken wire over your ports to prevent it from flying around.

    I pictured like packing peanuts or something floaty.

    Nope, I have a 12 Solo X in 3ft^3 box tuned to 40hertz. I have a piece of wire shelfing cut up and glued across the inside of the port. Nothing has come out. I packed that thing solid with one of my old pillows, though. With car tuning and polyfil, I think my actual tuning is around 34-35hertz. All I know is it gets real low and is the only twelve I've heard that can pull off the hairtrick. Here's a link to my youtube vid.

    That was with only 2000W rms, I have 3500W rms compliment of one beautiful Memphis 4kw right now. I'll post a vid with a better hairtrick soon, wih more powa!! Without the polyfil, I'm pretty sure my X would be toast by now!!

  14. actually im running 1 right now and i absoutely love it but im sure there is always better out there, but for 350-360$ the power is nice !

    I just scanned for about six minutes. So, looks like the Dollar/Watt ratio is impressive, and the're under rated, and they're pretty dependable, and have 85% efficiency.... And just look at those internals. Sounds like a damn good amp for the money. Might have to look into this amp for a temp install. Or I could really use that kind of power for my dad's RE SE 10s. Who knows.

  15. its just a different version of the audiopipe ap30001d

    It sure as hell is. "Thank you gods of SMD!" I haven't touched an audiopipe product ever so I never would have seen the connection. I should probably look more into audiopipes products. Always classified them as a loud and cheap company. The kind of woofers you take to a comp to burb em, blow em, and throw em. I have seen an SPL setup with audiopipe covering the whole side of the van, but that was years ago. Thanks. Is the Ap30001d any good? Have you worked with it? Never become biased until you work with it, thats my audio philosophy. You should definately give me some brands to compare it to, just to give me an idea.

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