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Posts posted by troy
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i would do them sealed. especially since you already ordered them. you will still get good results no trouble. do either subs back or subs on top tilted forward.
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the webiste says 4-4.5 cubes per sub will the sound be alot worse if i go much lower then that?
are you planning sealed or ported? honestly i dont think ported will fit. mine are sealed but i still get good results. obviously not like ported but i couldnt fit much more.
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maybe like 4-4.5 its a tight fit and almost doesnt.
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good luck getting a box for 15's to fit in that trunk
its possible. ive got 2 fosgate hx2 15's in a 1998 grant prix at the moment. the subs are pointed up but tilted forward just a lil bit. ive had good results from the box.
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they are rated at 12.8 or something like that so over 2000
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ok, well until you clamp your amp and check for your rise, you wont know actually output.
I know with his rise, he will see a good 2 ohm load min, even if the sub is wired in parallel for a 1 ohm nominal load.
The rfs, are rated at 14.4, if his electrical system is not the greatest, he will have noticable voltage drop.
Currently im running 1 3000 wrms amp at 1.5 nominal with a rise of 3 ohms @ 35hz and clamped it at just a tad above 1600wrms...
Impedance rise plays a big part of output power, obviously your still not understanding that I guess. Im done with thread.
PS: To the op your sub will be fine, just make the box about .5 cubed smaller then the required specs by kicker with 12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot. I dont see any problems arising. Just make sure to set your gain with a digital multimeter to ensure your not clipping the amp.
look i understand what box rise and impediance and all the other bs is. but yea its over
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opps forgot the sonicelectronix link that stats they are cea 2006 compliant..
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2808_R...r+T20001bd.html
so im just guessing you got your facts wrong, or thinking of a different amp?
ok me and a buddy personally ran the amp in our comp truck. for like a year and a half. in a stock s10. fully stock electrical except for a yellowtop. running that amp alone isnt going to make your voltage drop so much to the point that it will produce the 1000rms. and as for the 12.8.9 thing i said what about the companies that do. i said nothing about rockford. if your voltage drops to the point that it is getting that low while driving or at a rev with that amp alone there is something completely wrong.
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now that i think of it, 1 amp is a spare.
But if you even knew on how much power lets say a rf 20001bd puts out you would be amazed.
sure the birthsheets say 2-3krms, but its actually not doing that power.
Most these factory ratings are at a steady 13.8-14.4 volts depending on manufactures, and they use a 80-100hz tone for testing.
So then my question is, how many people have that great of electrical to keep that voltage up at that point full tilt.
Then my next question is, who plays 80-100hz, or even 60-70 hz?
Now Im going to take this a step farther, and say just because your subs are wired at a 1ohm nominal load at your amp, doesnt mean your amp is playing at 1 ohm. There is impedance rise from your box, so your speaker(s) can be playing from 1-6 ohms at times depending on the frequancy of the tone being played. Making your 2000wrms amp a measly 1500 watts.
and???? what about the legit factory ratings that actually rate there amps at 12.8 and 12.9. i already knew all of this before you posted it up. i took all of this into account already. i dont talk bullshit just to hear myself talk or to have others comment on it.
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I think he has air ride in The Hoe too.
nope it just has a 3/5 lowering kit if i remember right. but usually thi does replace the shocks and or springs.
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I was under the impression Steve has air ride, or am I getting confused with the Escalade?
escalade
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how much to have a good alarm kit installed into a 2000 tahoe???
possibly viper or something similar
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2 lvl3 12's will do just fine just do a lil more port area and itll be plenty
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oh, and I got this one titled "Eclipse"
thats a good one. mitsubishi shoulda used that
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i have the 15" running at 1 ohm but i have to turn bass down in radio.so what should i do buy another 15" or trade for 2 12"cvx and buy 2 more for a total of 4
id get another 15 and put the t2k on them. they would slam realllll hard.
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the port length/width was 15.5/2"..
maybe i need to go back to the 12's..
what about 1, level 4, 18? or is the box to small..
damn this is harder then it should be..
still way too small. in that space i would do a good set of 12's
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my buddy Joel has a 2nd gen eclips with 6 l7 10s and 3 stetsom 7kds for his daily driver.
for some reason this is hard to imagine.
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when powering a sub with more then its rated rms power, a smaller sized box will be better for the sub.
or vice versa for a underpowering a sub, to use a bigger box.
yea exactly right but a sub can still only take so much.
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no it wont be wide enough for 2 15's. they alone are about 16 inches wide plus the 2inch port is like 34inchs. you only have 32 avalable. also the box is about half the size that it needs to be. dont try to cram woofers into space. do it right. give them the space they need. try either 1 15, or 2 12's. that would work. itll be way louder than 2 15's crammed in a box that is way too small.
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the l7 will blow the hell up if you try to put the full 2000 rms on it. just went through a thread like this like 45 min ago.
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nope i wouldnt put that on there. blown speaker.
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it was set right around 30. the box was tuned to about 42.
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thats the way kickers are though. i have overpowerd just about every one i have had. i had almost 1200 on a pair of 12 cvrs. the 1300 on the l7. if you give them clean power they will take a more than rated to a certain extent but DO NOT CLIP THEM. that ended my cvrs.
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i had one on roughly 1300 and it bumped pretty nice. it was sealed. never really go hot or anything. i switched to a ported box and less than a week later it explodes. the woofer seized up.
box for grand prix?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
older modle trunks must have a smaller opening