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loopkiller

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Posts posted by loopkiller

  1. Happens all the time. Ask anyone in the alt business. One of the main reasons alts die is from a weak or bad battery. Many times customers will buy a new alt after it goes bad and kill a brand new one because the battery was the original problem to begin with. Sometimes guys will buy a big alt to charge a big bank of batts... sure fire way to kill a brand new alt is to throw it on a big bank of batts that are dead. The alt builds heat (epecially at idle) and can melt the stator just like a subwoofer coil that has been overdriven.

    I could see you point about a battery that had shorted cells or some other major defect, but simply low charged batteries out of the box should not draw more power than the alt would be required to make when the audio is pumping. Let's take this guys specific example. He had a D3100 @ 12.74v and a D3400 @ 12.51v out of the box. How many amps of current would you expect to see these two batteries draw in order to charge? I would bet my left nut (right one is no good) that it would be less than 50A of draw to charge them. So what you are saying is that this guy would burn up his alt by pulling 50A to charge these? If that is true, then he has one POS alt and should NEVER install an audio system in that vehicle.

    Agree?

  2. haha! Yes, it very well could be that by adding additional batteries you put additional strain on your alternator and can no longer hold adequate voltage. A simple check with a multimeter would have revealed the answer instead of taking back two perfectly good batteries to replace them with less power in the end....

    I am a little confused here. I was told that adding batteries would assist my alt in powering my amps. So now if I add a rear battery, I am not helping my alt? Adding rear batteries are detrimental to my charging system? Why sell them then?

    So if you are upset at him returning 2 perfectly good batteries, and you are sure they were perfectly good, how could it be that his amps fried due to low voltage? This could be answered one of two ways:

    1) The batteries were defective and did not properly supplement the alt power.

    2) The batteries were good, but are over-rated and were not adequate for powering a 3000W amp.

  3. If his batteries are not anywhere near full charged, like that are when you get them in the mail, then it isn't a good idea to let the alt charge it. The alt would be over-worked and potentially fry.

    It even says in the brochure that comes with these batteries that you need to charge them before you throw them under the hood...fyi

    I don't get that at all. I have never seen a battery draw that much current that it would "over-work" the alt. :blink:

  4. I have had a Kinetik in my car for about 4 years now. I don't have a big comp system, it is just a daily vehicle. I have a HC1400 under the hood and that is my only battery. I live where it gets very cold in the winter and very hot in the summer, so it gets some abuse. I have NEVER had one regret buying this battery. I have other friends who have run PM and Batcaps and both were less than stellar. But like with anything, you will get a bad one now and then no matter which brand you go with. Everyone is going to have a different experience.

  5. my batteries got a lil wet in my trunk, stickers where tore up a bit and started to bubble..

    I emailed powermaster last week Friday I think, and got a respones.

    Anyways This shows up at my door.

    Scottie J, your the fucking man!!! :give_rose:

    Thanks again!! :)

    Great customer service and great batteries!!!

    You might want to ask for some side stickers as well. Not sure if the tops are the ones that were messed up, but the sides look beat up in your pics.

  6. Well so far I am not liking my Powermasters....

    I got them 2/4, pulled them out of the boxes and they read 12.6. I put them on my charger at 14.8 to 14.9 for around 12 hours.

    I read the directions for the batteries, thats why I am not using my charger.

    It looks like you did charge them with your charger. Looks like you overcharged them too. How much amperage was that 14.8v~14.9v charge at?

    Now if I were you, I would demand a warranty exchange because you have people here saying that 15v is OK, yet the manual says 14.4v MAX.

  7. A agm charger will work best for charging the batteries (dont really matter in brand name, but the powermaster 12/16volt charger > kinetik chargers) :)

    I use a Diehard 10/2/60 amp deepcycle charger. Once it pukes Ill buy a nice powermaster.

    I have 2 d3100s in my car, and a 8+ year old optima redtop under the hood. My batteries rest around 14.1+ when car is off.

    I was plugging my car in every night maintain batteries when my stereo was in it and driving it, but since i parked it for the winter I havent touched it, and probolly should.

    I use a 2 amp manual charge non stop.

    The low 2 amp trickle charge is not enough to damage the battery, or at least that Ive ever heard.

    I will just let my batts sit there for weeks at a time if I dont need to drive the car.

    This will teach the batts to hold a higher rest voltage too.

    But you need a charger that has a manual switch, otherwise a automatic charger will stop charging the batteries once they are "full" and it wont teach the battery a higher resting voltage.

    Edit, forgot the link to the charger i got, its old..

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DieHard-10%...1171110006r2427

    If your 12v batteries are resting at 14.1v, you have a serious charging issue. If your 16v batteries are resting at 14.1v, you have a dead batteries.

    i went out and got my dmm and checked it, its sitting at 12.79 now

    12.79v is probably fine. It is very close to full charge. 12.8v after resting a full day after last charge is probably full. You might see them rest as high as 13.2v right after taking them off the charger. However, you cannot know the charge depth by voltage alone. You will have the chance of seeing a surface charge that look like a full charge if the battery was not charged properly.

  8. Just because you are in the 25A mode does not mean the 1005 charger will ALWAYS deliver 25A. If you have two batteries connected in parallel (with nothing else connected to them... ie, no other loads) and the battery is connected to the charger and you turn it on in the AGM low mode, at 25A and 12V, you will get 25A of current (as shown by the amperage needle on the front of the charger) until you reach the end of stage 1 of the charge sequence. To reach the end of stage 1 the charger will need to bring the battery voltage up from it's resting point to approx. 14.4V. At this point, the charger will hold this voltage and the amperage will fall as it self absorbs into the battery at the rate the battery will accpet it. If after 10 hours the batteries have not reached 100% state of charge the charger will shut off and the error light will come on. If you have something connected to the batteries that draws the slightest amount of currnent the charger will not reach float because the charger has to see 700mA or less to pass over into stage 3, or the "float stage". In addition, if you are charging, or have charged at too high of a charge voltage, the battery's valves will be "open" and you will need to let the batteries settle long enough for them to re-seal in order for the charger to reach float stage. This is why it is important to properly charge sealed batteries, because the longer the valves remain "open" the shorter the battery's life will be.

    So he probably overcharged his batteries and opened the vents and gassed his batteries? I think that is why the instructions that came with the battery say never to exceed 14.4v charge rate. Maybe he didn't read the directions. Sounds like he blew up his brand new batteries. Is there a warranty that covers over charging?

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