Bluebrindle

I,m having fun am but i would rather be over in the states like you are bud I may not use tsns now, another guy over here will be running them, i will most likely do 4 15" t2000's for a complete change, i,m still not 100% on it though, gotta do some calculations and see how it all fits.

Trust me guys i have driven in rhd and lhd and lhd on the right side of the road makes sense lol, we are just strange over here, i just park it outside the house, i doubt many uk garages could fit this inside.

Lol we are on the wrong side man we do a thing called proper droppers here in the uk basically its term lab at the passenger headrest facing the screen, you can have doors or windows open. You get tested at 20, 25, 32, 40 and then your peak, this is then made into an average. I am in the trunk class, i have 2 18" mayhems and 2 sundown 3500's my scores 20 - 145db 25 - 147.? db 32- 148.8 db 40 - 148.3 (iirc) average 147.3 makes me the loudest trunk install in propper droppers in the UK Gonna be loud loud next year though, i,m bringing t3 audio into the uk and will do either 2 18" tsns or 4x 15 t2000 in the trunk (just gonna get the 15's in) Theres some pretty sick stuff happening over here :hairtrick:

Check out some of my vids, we get loud here in the UK too :hairtrick: 148 on music....... 145@ 20hz Tuned low mane 27hz I think the jeeps gonna explode though Rob gets a demo

will it work? what sort of power would it do and would it be less harsh on the electrical than running each amp at .6ohm? maybe slightly better sq?

Right.... It appears to be a damaged rca cable. i havent actually tested the problem amp but i just went out and swapped the rcas over (used the set that was on the bad amp on the good amp iykwim) and guess what? straight into protect, tried it a couple of times did the same thing. swapped leads back and its perfect. Result (now to actually test the amp so i wont speak too soon but it appears good)

i,m using knuconcepts rca's i'll swap em over as doing that will be a 5 minute job, it would not surprise me if there was any nicks or damage to the rca's as they were pulled under carpets and it was very difficult so i would not be shocked if there was any damage any other ideas?

unstrapped just had an amp to each lvl5 with dual .7 coils i was meant to wire it to 1.4 but in my rush to get it done did .375 by mistake :censored: just to add that the amp will only come out of protect when the car is turned off and back on again at which time the amp comes straight on and plays fine, only when volume is raised does it cut out. i did it 4 times and have now removed it ready to be sent off to repair but for all i know it could be something simple.

I have got 2 3500's Completly my fault but i wired the subs wrong (ignorance :01nocomment8so: ) and showed each amp .375 ohms. gains were set all the way down but had a clean signal from an overdrive. i played music for 20 secs max, in that time i turned the volume upto my usual point quite slowly. at this stage one of the 3500's went into protect. i got out checked everything and the amps were stone cold, subs stone cold (20secs play time remember) so i turn the car off and back on and amps out of protect. repeated the same as above and it happened again. it was this stage i realised i wired the subs wrong. strange thing is the other amp is perfect. opened the back of the amp to check for damage and theres no visible damage there at all, at the time there were no smells or smoke just went straight into protect as soon as volume increased. voltage dropped to 12v dead on so not excessivly low so what could be the problem? i,ll have to send it off for repair but would obviously be nice if it was something simple.

Is it worth me running my 3500's at .7ohm instead of 1 ohm (can get subs reconed) or is it just going to degrade sq (as have run amps at .7 ohm before and the sq is noticibly worse) will have the power supply to back them up (400a of alternator for 2x 3500's ) anyone know what power they put out at 14v as well?

i could wall it from the c pillar. Would that be better you think? its gonna end up with half the subs behind the seats, but the port would fully be in the open. Btw its a jeep grand cherokee. cant wall it from b pillar as the car is my girlfriends daily drive now she had to sell hers.

do you hear the rattle though? when i looked at it all i figured it would never work, until i took off the trunk trim panel. This gave me over 6" but left everything open and left big holes in the trunk which i realise is no good, i want all that air up front not stuck in the lid. So i pulled some material over the trunk lid and glassed it all, i did about 5 layers of resin and some fibreglass then put some 4mm deadening on it, its now pretty damn solid so i,m hoping the airs gonna hit that and flow up front nicely. Before i had subs and port up, it sounded very loud and did pretty hard hairtricks but only hit a 146.8 at 38hz with windows open(2 lvl5 15's on a xxx6500 , now it will be subs up port back and i just hope its still gonna move all that air but be louder too (2 lvl5 18's with a saz3500 on each).

Because i got about 2 replies. I asked about what distance was acceptable. Here i,m asking what distance peoples ports actually are and then i make my own assumption. OK? I have got a port which is 6.25 high and is 6" at opening but tapers down to about 4". i think it will be okay as theres obviously lots and lots of airspace there(poirt is about 20 wide but trunk is about 40 all the way across) I just dont wanna build it all then build it all again but think i,m gonna risk it.

I did do a similar thread asking about distance from port to trunk lid but didnt get a lot of response so this may be better then i can make my own judgement. All i want to know is 1.Port size (height x width) 2. distance from port opening to trunk lid thanks

getting the 18's in is no problem, i can build a box which will give 11.9 cu ft after all displacements. The issue is that by doing that i,d have to have sub up and port up otherwise i,d have no where to put the amps (if i put them on back of box i,d be blocking the airflow) everyone says that sub up port back is the way to go in suv,s. currently i have subs up and port up and granted it moves lots of air for sure but doesnt do very big numbers at all- 146.8 off 4k with the windows down. sealed i,d guess at maybe 145 if i,m lucky. theres people doing more than that off of a single 15 off less power here tuned about the same. i just wonder if its because of where my port is. i suppose that all given the 18's will be louder than what i have now as the box is bassically the same- however it will be higher so the port would be loading more off the rear screen. i just wonder if the 15's are gonna give more.