fritosaregood

with those dimensions youll be under the reccomended volume range for that sub

if those are the specs for the box, then you should go bigger, youll need to make the port area bigger too if you increase the box volume

That what i got when i calculated, but i was wonder after takin out for port. So i did a winisd thing real quick, and if you tune to 30hz youll have a little less than 5 cubes. your port area is 66.25 inch. a good size for port area is 12-16 sq in per cubic foot of volume of the box. 66.25 sq in for 5 cubes is 13.25 sq in of port for ever cubic foot. It does fall in the range for good port area.

what is your box volume after port volume is take out

Since each sub is 4 ohms you need to run at 2 or 8 ohms. I have a bash 500 watt amp that works great, but its only stable to 4 ohms. There is also a 300 watt version for $150 on partsexpress. I would say get one bash 300 amp for each sub or just use one sub and one amp.

it would go: Positive terminal under the hood to Postive terminal to first trunk battery. then, Positive terminal of first trunk battery to Positive terminal of the second trunk battery. then ground the two batts in the trunk. That is how i have my wire ran for power for a saz3000 amp,

That will work. or instead of running two lines one to each batt, you could run one line to one back batt then connect the batts in the back together. But if you can spend the extra money more is better.hah, and make sure the buss bar is grounded good.

a used and new of the same sub should be fine.

Electricaly there is no problem if they are the same voice coil configuration. but for sub performance. You wont be able to have the box perfect because different subs have different needs. it may not sound good at all because they also respond to frequecies differently. and if they are in the same chamber and one sub has more force than the other it could interfere with the other sub, and damage it. there are other reason too, just not poppin in my head right now. but the short answer is dont mismatch subs.

yes and no. You can spend money on battery terminals that have multiple 0 guage inputs, which is what i started out doing. or. what i do now: just get some heavy duty battery terminals from walmart or autozone. I got some from walmart that accepts up to 1 2/0 gauge wire and has two bolts to hold down the top. so i use the one 2/0 part for one wire and bolt wires with ring terminals on the two bolts that hold the top on.

If they are 4 ohms wire them in parallel down to two ohms. use the multimeter again to make sure it is 2 ohms. not sure exactly wat yoru askin about the power but if the sub is rated 300rms and you have 328 its ok. it will work on music fine, and you probably wont have it full tilt all the time. even if you do its music your playin to continuous tones. if the subs still cant take the power(you smell funny smells) just turn the gain on the amp down, you never have to use the full power of the amp

Multiple wires is just to add more copper for a better flow of juice. Youll have to fuse every + wire. For wiring it to multiple batts: Just run wire from the + terminal under the hood to the + terminals in the trunk. and ground all the batteries. you should really have two fuses in the wire if you are connectin batteries batt....fuse.............................................fuse......batt if you just have batt......fuse..............................batt -----------------and you have a short here ^ -------^that battery is still shorting out

There should not be any damage running at 8 ohms. but that amp shows it is stable at 2 ohms

if an amp is stable at 4 ohms then it will play 8 ohms with no problem, just less power. What amp is the being used?

I have a 1608 too. and it is the 25 anniversary it has a power light and a protect light. the protect light comes one when the amp shuts off because of a short or overheating

That amp doesnt have a clip light

I would look over pioneer too. after that pico fuse problem, them my left front channel went out and just plays static. so now i just have my rear channel with a y splitter for my 4 channel amp. Im waitin to find a new h/u.

You have to put a wire on the neg part of the rca where it connects the pre out jacks and ground that wire. its wat ive heard to do, and it worked for me. The problem in the pioneers is a pico fuse that messes up alot.

X2 for somethin like this...with E8's ive got 4 E8's in my car and they sound great

Its just a bench seat right, no separate center section right? Maybe 4 8's could work.

so how are you exceeding its mechanical limits without damaging it.. or did you already say that but i didnt pick up on it?

the way before works. this way works too, but you dont really need the second set of bars

that looks good, but wat about flippin one of the series'ed sets around to have the all the negatives on the inside and two lines of positives on the outsides. are you doing 16 or only 12 like in the sketch?

if there are batteries close to the amp then it could be directly to the battery.

how are you putting that much power to the Ib3? arent they only rated for 550rms, and there arent any options for cooling or anything.