fritosaregood
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Posts posted by fritosaregood
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Yeah if your sub is wired to 1.4, each amp is seeing a 0.7 nominal load. I would try this
3000 * 1.4 = 4200
Sq rt of 4200 = 64.8VAC
No, because its not rated for 3000 at 1.4 ohms, its rated at 2 ohms.
but having it at 80 should be alright since the amps are under rated.
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the equation is square root ( rated output X ohm load )
so its power rating is 3000 rms at 2 ohms
so sqrt(3000 X 2) that is about 77.5 volts.
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ok so that me right , i have build a few boxes for them, like pretty much all speakers , bigger the better ...
I have build for them too, and ive got 4 in 5.5 cubes so only 1.375 each and they do great. excellent frequency response too
but the bigger... then less power you should run.. not really the bigger the better
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why did you make another topic with the same question?
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Ive got 4 type r 12s behind the seats in a single cab truck, they are in 5.5 cubes with 60 sq inches of port, does ~47s on music on 1500 watts. I would say 7.2 is just fine
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Frame rail, or run 1/0 back to the alternator mounting bracket.
this
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i would also do port back
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Is that the biggest batt you could fit under your hood?
Not sure how much room you have, but i put a d2700 under my friend hood and he has a saz1500 and he dropped maybe .5 volts at idle
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yea, and over zip tieing wires...
i will add though that i have a similar story to audiofanatic. I started out with iraggi, sent it in after a year or so of working without problems(didnt have a voltage guage though) to mechman to get it dynoed, turned out that alt suck balls, and was offer a discounted rhino alt in exchange for him keeping the iraggi, the mechman worked for a bit, then went up in smoke, got fixed, still worked, but always dropped voltage quick. In the beginning it didnt. So i sent that in to DC and he told me they were working on an alt for my car that would meet my needs, so i waited for it to be released and got the 270 XP alt. It mounted alot easier than the mechman and i havent had any problems out of it at all. the vehicle is a 95 accord.
I can say that mechman customer service was great. the first alt of his that arrived and my door was the wrong one and before i could even send that one back, he had already shipped and i received the correct alt. Not sure how long but it was just a couple days after i noticed it wasnt the right one.
I also had great CS from DC, but now i havent received any emails back or pms back that i sent in january. idk wtf is up with that.
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1.75 cubes per woofer as long as your running under 800rms per sub, 100 sq inches of port should be good tuned between 33 and 38hz, if you want to play almost any slowed music and still get good numbers on the meter do 38 hz
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whatever amp gives you 600 watts per sub?
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I would do port up,
sub drivers side and port passenger side.
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Its gonna be in an extended cab yota... I would wall it for 4 15s...
with the 18 I was thinkin about stayin' below the back glass...
I like the fact the AQ stuff can be repaired lol if I blow a hifonics I gotta buy another one... Given the brutus 15s are only like 100 bucks a peice...
The 4 15s would also be about 100 bucks more expensive and I think the aq2200 would murder them... lol
nah, they wouldnt have any problems on that power,
as for the 18, get the dual 2 so you can run at 1 ohm, running at .5 puts unneeded strain on your electrical
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I've always liked Audioque stuff, I know its high quality... and also I'm pretty sure the 1 18 and 2200 would be as loud as 8 HFi 12s... and I won't have to worry about killing it...
Plus the wow factor like someone said above...
Also its in my price range still...
what about your other option of the 4 brutus subs, they will be 'louder' than the 18 if you have enough space.
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why did you change your mind?
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I would the 4 brutus 15s, the hfi's will do decent and sound good, but the brutus subs are alot better
if you do the hfi's though, break of the plastic piece that covers the tiny little magnet, it will rattle and make an annoying sound on higher bass
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Most people can't hear a difference in volume change unless it gets to/or exceeds a 3db change. Now while this is a big difference to those who have witnessed it...keep in mind... if your vehicle is pulling 135db @ db drag... you (under perfect conditions) would gain 3db by doubling your power. So for however much the amp and wiring costs you, you've moved from 135 to 138db...the question is...is ONLY a 3db gain worth the time and money? VS say...a better box? A better design? A better woofer could make the same difference given efficiency ratings...
All about how you want to go about it.
Side note: with regards to doubling overall output...for those who don't recall....you must multiply your original power by x10. so 500w...turns into 5000w in order to double the output.
(Keep in mind these calculations are based in a perfect world; other things will play into this)
I think your read wikipedia on the wrong day,
double your output is roughly 3db gain,
10 db gain is 10x
20 db gain is 100x louder
30 db gain is 1000x louder
This is mostly right. I say mostly because human perception is too subjective for actual figures. But on the meter measuring compression, then yes.
And just for some fun.. Think of 3dB roughly as doubling your pressure at a given point. (P + 3dB = P * 21)
A simple equation to give you a rough idea what kind of compression difference you'll get
Gain multiplier = 2(dB gain / 3)
Example:
10dB gain
Gain multiplier = 2(10/3)
Gain multiplier = 10.07
20dB gain
Gain multiplier = 2(20/3)
Gain multiplier = 101.59
nice,
but yea, i wasn't going by ear, but physics definitions
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Most people can't hear a difference in volume change unless it gets to/or exceeds a 3db change. Now while this is a big difference to those who have witnessed it...keep in mind... if your vehicle is pulling 135db @ db drag... you (under perfect conditions) would gain 3db by doubling your power. So for however much the amp and wiring costs you, you've moved from 135 to 138db...the question is...is ONLY a 3db gain worth the time and money? VS say...a better box? A better design? A better woofer could make the same difference given efficiency ratings...
All about how you want to go about it.
Side note: with regards to doubling overall output...for those who don't recall....you must multiply your original power by x10. so 500w...turns into 5000w in order to double the output.
(Keep in mind these calculations are based in a perfect world; other things will play into this)
I think your read wikipedia on the wrong day,
double your output is roughly 3db gain,
10 db gain is 10x
20 db gain is 100x louder
30 db gain is 1000x louder
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just remember those 15s are rated at 600rms,
they may do just fine on 1100rms thermally, but then you have to design the box around over powering them. and dont even try to start clipping them when youre already at almost double the power rating
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one clears debris up and one down
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I used a spiral down cut bit, i used a up cut at first, but ive had less problems with my down cut one. it coulda been my crappy router though too
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headphones, they get loud!!
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An underpowered sub is an unhappy sub. All variables being the same a NON UNDERPOWERED sub will be louder and sound better. You are currently underpowering a sub that is begging for power. That is what was stated. So randomly going off about 500w vs 1200w and boxes...It might sound fine with 1200, but giving it more could also be an option versus just going for more/different subs.
But as for the simple question, IN THEORY, two 15s SHOULD be louder then 1 18 being as all variables are the same and boxes are built to spec.
Side note, jumping to calling everyone peasants = lawl.
that is very untrue,
it might be true if the sub he has now had maybe 5+ spiders to keep mechanical control under alot of power.
to the OP if you can get wood from your friend.. haha that sounds funny, but if you can get cheaper wood i would try to atleast build one or 2 boxes, its alot more fun that way instead of just getting one.
box help needed
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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this is pretty good right here, Ive also build boxes for then tuned as high as 38 hz and they still drop down low, but that will depend on what types of music you listen too. If you mostly do unedited music but still have slowed song between 35 and 38 will be great and still dig down and get the low lows.
Also between 50 and 60 sq inches of port.