fritosaregood
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Posts posted by fritosaregood
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The way its going to be bolted together, i think it will work alright. but the width of the baffle is the widest i can do it. so i couldnt make it wider if i wanted.
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Ill be working on puttin 2 15's in my trunk soon, and it may take me till the end of this summer to finish it. So for that time ill need the trunk empty to measure and test fit. so until that gets done I'm going to put 2 E8's in the center of my back seat IB.
pics so far
Thats all i can do for now. I'm waitin on some t-nuts to get here tomorrow
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haha, well best of luck. yea ported is nice tho, my 1 seems to vibrate the car as much as ur 2, from wat i could tell. either way i wish i had 2 of them. good sub, i guess mine is just gettin to much power.
I used to have a single one in a real low tuned ported box. it was great.
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nice vid tho. y sealed? space issue?
yea, but im workin on a ported design right now. im gonna have to break out my big roll of fiberglass
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1500rms each. i use to have a single axis on the amp at 1 ohm and it did fine
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I got both axis's workin and put them in a sealed box, for now.
powered by a sundown 3000 at .5 ohms.
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separate chambers too, i had two audiopulse axis's in a common chamber sealed box, i couldnt even turn it up without wierd sounds. then my amp went in to protect??? So i made separate chambers and it sounds great now
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Put them on a "battery tender" type charger. I have one that carges at like 1 amp or less. It pulses the charge and has brought some batteries back from the dead.
2nd this
Ive got two battery maintainers from walmart, 1.5 amp charge, with a float charge once its done. 20 bucks each. ive got 2 2400s sitting on them right now
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do you think 2 facing forward and 1 up would cancel anything?
it would just have different planes that the woofers are on, it may be louder with them all in the same direction, but its in a truck so that can be hard.
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Please don't run two separate boxes with the subs firing in different directions. That's just asking for cancellation.
there really isnt that much cancellation with low notes.
ive and subs facing each other and it was still loud
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Why not just get the dual 4 T2's, all the coils wired in parallel will give you a 1 ohm loaded, that will give you enough power with 1 amp.
that amp might even do 2000rms at 1 ohm. itll come with a birthsheed thatll tell for sure.
edit: i got beat.
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Update:
I decide to do another test, but this time with roughly half the power.
Before i started the temp of the amp was 74 F
I played music for 19 mins.
The tempurature this time was 77.5 F on the power terminal side, and 84.8 F on the RCA side. Pretty much the same as the fult tilt test.
So further conclusions are these temps seem to me regular operating temps at this low ohm.
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I tried turning up my bass once when there was a car next to me with a lot of tweeters and shit full blast, but I could still hear their shit even with my bass at Full Tilt.
God damnit. 1200 Watt RMS System FTL.
ive got 3k.. hehe
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when all you here is their midbass. just turn up your bass bass.
thats what i do when ppl with just some tweeters in there cars pulls up next to me at a light and they have there windows down.
but the less sound escapin outside means more is inside.
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Damn...
I'm just getting worried about putting more stuff into my car cuz I don't wnat it to get busted into and lose it all...
talk to your insurance guys about addin comprehensive. it will cover breakins.
youll have to give them reciepts for everything you put in, and theyll take pictures. There may be rules about it having to be bolted down, but my insurance never told me i had too. My deductible is 150 or 200 i think.. but it beats another 3k+ for all new stuff. and it only added $85 every six month
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i dont know much about cars. but maybe you idle speed is too low.
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Is aluminum a noticeable hurt on the current? Cuz I really can't justify another onnline purchase to the 'rents...
i use some of there aluminum ground connectors to connect my 0 gauge to my batteries, My voltage stays up the same when i had the gold plated ring terminals connecting the wires, at least no very noticable dip.
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Ouch, that hurts the wallet just looking at it!
not too bad, and us smd guys get a discount there too. the one at lowes it maybe 2.50 though, i think its aluminum too.
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ok i loose to this one.
but remember the heat shink to insulate it
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i meant more for car, truck or suv. because a truck wouldnt need to be as long usually
look around at a lowes in there wire section for the butt splicers, and cover it in some layers of heatshrink. or you could get some more 4 gauge wire. Ebay should have good 4 gauge that shouldnt be too expensive.
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I added comprehensive to my coverage after my first break in, i got a viper alarm too, and no discount for me. its funny how even the insurance place thinks i have too much stuff, cuz i have to go take a pic of it whenever i add something. Ive got a thick folder that shows the progression of my setups.
but with just liability, that doesnt cover anything that getting an alarm would help out anyway
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take the fuse holder out of that wire, it should be closer the battery anyway.
do you know how long you need the wire to be, to make it to your trunk (you have a car right?)
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Lowes has some connectors like you looking for, it connects the butts of two wires together with some machine scews. like how most amp power terminals are. You could use this to connect the two wires, then put a few layers of heat shrink around it.
How long do need the wire. you could use the 15" to run to the fuse, then the 12' to the amps
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Yea, i know a little better than that
2 Sundown E8's In A Backseat
in Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!
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i was thinkin about 4 E8s on the saz3000 for a burp at the comp, hah
but yea, ill be building a ported box, its gonna have to be molded into the sides of the trunk to get all the airspace i can.