fritosaregood
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Posts posted by fritosaregood
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its going to be for 2 sundown 3000s
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Im looking at gettin more 0 gauge wire and was looking into stinger. Its says the wire is "tinned". Is that better or worse than using wire that is just copper?
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can someone help me figure out how to do this right dementions are 33 wide 28 deep 14 high port tuned around 33 hz thats about at large i can make it to fit in my trunk
with those dimensions youll be under the reccomended volume range for that sub
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if those are the specs for the box, then you should go bigger, youll need to make the port area bigger too if you increase the box volume
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about 6 without port
That what i got when i calculated, but i was wonder after takin out for port. So i did a winisd thing real quick, and if you tune to 30hz youll have a little less than 5 cubes. your port area is 66.25 inch. a good size for port area is 12-16 sq in per cubic foot of volume of the box. 66.25 sq in for 5 cubes is 13.25 sq in of port for ever cubic foot. It does fall in the range for good port area.
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what is your box volume after port volume is take out
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Since each sub is 4 ohms you need to run at 2 or 8 ohms. I have a bash 500 watt amp that works great, but its only stable to 4 ohms.
There is also a 300 watt version for $150 on partsexpress. I would say get one bash 300 amp for each sub or just use one sub and one amp.
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how would i connect the 2 back batteries? ground the two and connect the pos together to the front?
it would go: Positive terminal under the hood to Postive terminal to first trunk battery. then, Positive terminal of first trunk battery to Positive terminal of the second trunk battery. then ground the two batts in the trunk.
That is how i have my wire ran for power for a saz3000 amp,
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yea that is very nice work. Thanks a lot for the pics. really helps
One final question, I have 1 yellowtop in the front of my car and 2 in the back. How should i connect all the wires? something like this (sorry about the bad drawing) :01nocomment8so: That will work. or instead of running two lines one to each batt, you could run one line to one back batt then connect the batts in the back together. But if you can spend the extra money more is better.hah, and make sure the buss bar is grounded good.
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Sounds bad. I think I would even probably want to avoid the same speaker in two different conditions? one new, one used then.
a used and new of the same sub should be fine.
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Electricaly there is no problem if they are the same voice coil configuration.
but for sub performance. You wont be able to have the box perfect because different subs have different needs. it may not sound good at all because they also respond to frequecies differently. and if they are in the same chamber and one sub has more force than the other it could interfere with the other sub, and damage it. there are other reason too, just not poppin in my head right now. but the short answer is dont mismatch subs.
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is there like a special battery terminal i need to be able to run multiple out of my main battery under the hood?
yes and no. You can spend money on battery terminals that have multiple 0 guage inputs, which is what i started out doing.
or. what i do now: just get some heavy duty battery terminals from walmart or autozone. I got some from walmart that accepts up to 1 2/0 gauge wire and has two bolts to hold down the top. so i use the one 2/0 part for one wire and bolt wires with ring terminals on the two bolts that hold the top on.
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If I had to guess, I'd say the speakers can handle 400 rms, but that is a somehwat unusual # so its probably like 300 tops. If you noticed, this amp will be pushing 328w RMS into each if I run it at 2 ohms. Hmm
How close will I actually be to that number or can I just be real careful?
If they are 4 ohms wire them in parallel down to two ohms. use the multimeter again to make sure it is 2 ohms.
not sure exactly wat yoru askin about the power but if the sub is rated 300rms and you have 328 its ok. it will work on music fine, and you probably wont have it full tilt all the time. even if you do its music your playin to continuous tones. if the subs still cant take the power(you smell funny smells) just turn the gain on the amp down, you never have to use the full power of the amp
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Multiple wires is just to add more copper for a better flow of juice. Youll have to fuse every + wire.
For wiring it to multiple batts: Just run wire from the + terminal under the hood to the + terminals in the trunk. and ground all the batteries.
you should really have two fuses in the wire if you are connectin batteries
batt....fuse.............................................fuse......batt
if you just have batt......fuse..............................batt
-----------------and you have a short here ^ -------^that battery is still shorting out
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Sorry, thought I posted that:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mxaLuNGc7Uv/p...rence-611a.html
I don't really think 2 ohms is going to be an option I want to consider. If I do end up doing it, I promise to videotape it for this forum as those coils pop.
I appreciate the help. THere is very little info I could find on the dangers of 8 ohm operation.
so again, to clarify. I care zero about possible speaker damage, I only want to use the amp until I can grab two CVR's. But I do want this to work until then somehow without amp damage.
There should not be any damage running at 8 ohms. but that amp shows it is stable at 2 ohms
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the lower the ohms the more work the amp has to do. Your amp will make very little power at 8 ohms and im pretty sure it's not 8 ohms stable which will damage the amp. If your amp is stable at 2 ohms then run it at 2 ohms.
if an amp is stable at 4 ohms then it will play 8 ohms with no problem, just less power.
What amp is the being used?
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i think i would know seeing how its sitting in my truck
and there is 2 lights one for power and one for clip
its a 26th anniversary edition if that changes anything
I have a 1608 too. and it is the 25 anniversary
it has a power light
and a protect light. the protect light comes one when the amp shuts off because of a short or overheating
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That amp doesnt have a clip light
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ohhh. well i may just go with eclipse or kenwood. so i won't have to worry about that. hopefully.
I would look over pioneer too. after that pico fuse problem, them my left front channel went out and just plays static. so now i just have my rear channel with a y splitter for my 4 channel amp. Im waitin to find a new h/u.
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how do i do that?
You have to put a wire on the neg part of the rca where it connects the pre out jacks and ground that wire. its wat ive heard to do, and it worked for me. The problem in the pioneers is a pico fuse that messes up alot.
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or like 4 e8s ported would be cool too
X2 for somethin like this...with E8's
ive got 4 E8's in my car and they sound great
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Its just a bench seat right, no separate center section right? Maybe 4 8's could work.
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oh, the rating is mechanical not thermal. scott and I talked about this before I bought it.
so how are you exceeding its mechanical limits without damaging it.. or did you already say that but i didnt pick up on it?
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so like this?
and yes i know theres only 12 in the pic i have to do 4 ontop of the rest and didnt feel like putting them in the pic
the way before works. this way works too, but you dont really need the second set of bars
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One final question, I have 1 yellowtop in the front of my car and 2 in the back. How should i connect all the wires? something like this (sorry about the bad drawing) :01nocomment8so: 
Wire Specs
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
ok, wat does the coating help on? oxidation? is that wat happens to copper.
ive got wire from ebay before, it was superfat wire, says its all copper and 4100 or 4400 strand count i think