Jump to content

BigJohnny

Members
  • Posts

    341
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by BigJohnny

  1. you guys need to visit the TCCoA forums, me and a couple of others there have done much blue with our cats and birds. I've got my SATC done. I have reverse glow gauges to be installed, and there is a post on the board about putting leds behind the needles which really makes them look fuckin amazing.

    people are working on shift selectors, buttons etc. There is also a guy there who does gauge overlays and such that's been working with us for our blue obsession :D

    I've also got a thread somewhere here on SMD about my blue SATC conversion, and how I did it.

  2. the clutch fans I believe use a fluid inside the clutch that adjusts the fan blades based on the heat of the engine(bay), at the same time it also "grabs" onto the shaft more so the fan will spin faster when it's hot.

    afaik they should always be "on", just when it's cold you could stop it with your hand (Disclaimer for all: don't try that, it's a figure of speech, if your stupid enough to stick your hand in a running fan you don't deserve the hand)

    I don't know if this helps you, but it shouldn't be running at full speed all the time.

  3. I just got the amp and voltage meter I ordered from Asia Engineer on eBay, and I thought wiring it up would be simple but the instructions prove to be a little more complicated. Apparently each meter must have it's own separate power supply, and they can not measure from the same source.

    first of all, does anyone know any reason why they would not be able to use the same power supply for their working power. These are not car specific, so there may be a reason I'm overlooking. I can't see why it would cause problems, and any power in a car is from a single source, the battery, so I have no choice but to use the same power supply to power them.

    The meters are 5v, and I have a 7805 regulator that steps the cars voltage (it's been tested at 15v) down to a steady 4.95 volts, this circuit includes caps to smooth spikes. what would be the problem in powering both meters from this circuit?

    Secondly, the shunt that's included for the amp meter, will it cause any problems with electrical flow or current, or will it interfere in anyway? I would like to hook it up from my alt to measure the total load put on the alt. Should I measure the battery instead? Ideally I would like to see what kind of current is being drawn from my audio system when it spikes, and when it's running, but I would also like to know the overall load being put on my system.

    If I measure the amperage from the battery then according to the wiring diagram/instructions below I won't be able to measure the voltage from there.

    So what do I do here? How do I wire these up?

    Panel%20Meter%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg

  4. since you mention budget and everyone here is talking about the main components, have you also considered the cost of everything else, such as wiring, connectors, fuseblocks, powerwire for the HO alt/big 3 etc?

    I'm finding that wiring is becoming my biggest problem, I still need a bunch of 1/0 and other odds and ends that will likely cost me close to $400 ($100 of which is the 1/0) for just the stuff needed to power/wire the amp, subs and head unit that I've spent $400+ on already, (KDC-MP538U, Dual XPA4100, and Insignia party pak) there is also the boxes im building, and the amp racks I will need to build, cost of fiberglass to build the racks, the component speakers I need for my cab, and i'm sure other crap I can't think of.

    wen I think about this it makes me sad because it's been over a year and I still can't afford everything I need to get it in, and I don't really have any resources to help me with the stuff that I really need help with.... it's looking like another year or two or longer before I can finally install my god damn system.

×
×
  • Create New...