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BigJohnny

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Posts posted by BigJohnny

  1. Lol. It's all good, it happens. (youtube embedding)

    I just seen this a couple days ago. The kid needs some help.

    LMAO at the remote in the butt.

    I was just going to say that ... ROFLMAO why does he try to shove a remote in his ass...... that's one weird tantrum..... not sure if it was fake or not, but I have seen people genuinely throw bad tantrums...so it's possible. .... not noticing the camera or his brother in and out of his room seems a little suspicious and where was he going half naked at the end? to kill his mom?

  2. I am not sure about the kicker wire, but I have heard from others to stay away from the silver tinned Knu wire, about the strands and welding wire, basically it is like this welding wire works fine for audio, lots of people use it and all have had a good exp. with it, the main problem with it having less strand count is it isnt as flexable, that is one of the main advantages of having high strand count. I personally have had exp with the Knu flex wire, the Kicker Hyperflex, and with Stinger Wire, all 3 of these brands performed great for me. I dont have any exp. with street wire so I couldnt say.

    As for your situation, if you are using the wire for the big 3 welding wire will work great, but doing a run to the back under the carpet through the cabin, I would recomend getting wire with a higher strand count, so it is easier to follow the contours of the floor board.

    strand count isn't for flexibility, it's for the "skin effect", the electricity doesn't travel through the core of a strand of wire, it "wraps" itself around the surface of it. more strand count means more surface area for the electricity to flow with....just look up skin effect, lots of info on it, but does apply more to AC power....either way strand count is about more than just being flexible.

  3. you should look over at tccoa forums, me and a couple others are doing blue SATCs, shift selectors etc....there just seems to eb a bunch of LED stuff there.

    ummmm.... why do you need 20 for a dome light? you can buy festoon bulbs from superbrightleds.com, I bought one that has 6 SMD LEDs in it, and its plenty bright....20 will be like daylight.

    Also your getting them from the wrong place if they are only 7000mcd, the ones I got are 13,000mcd blue.... the whites are brighter.

  4. I've never actually listened to this song, but this is kick ass, those drums are amazing.

    So your driving down the road bumpin your tunes, people are around and looking, this comes on, they hear the rock start jammin along, then katy perry kicks and they stop, and look with confused faces...... do they jam or look at you funny for listening to a chick song....... ROFL.

  5. alright so i had the rcas ran next to the power wire and i had a nice whine... i moved them to the other side tonight and well... its still there

    i blew my 6 channel amp and i got a shitty dual amp ( better then nothing casue i have all speakers amped so.. no amp no sounds) and it seemed to get worse?

    what can i do to get rid of it?!

    sorry to butt in, but what Dual amp do you have? I have an XPA4100 or something I think that I will use for my components..... whats wrong with it that you don't like it other than it's just a cheap brand?

  6. I had a moment like this briefly, I was talking to a buddy at work, who has a headunit without a faceplate in his car. he was asking me if he could just buy a faceplate and it would work, because the current plate he had was shitty(according to him)

    I told him no, each faceplate must be on the correct head unit. his H/U is a samsung or something like that and he has a blaupunkt faceplate. I'll be damned if he didn't plug that in and it worked.

    I don't know if I missed something, but I thought it was pretty amusing anyway :)

  7. they have coloured panels, which may or may not be glued down or secured in some fashion. Behind the knobs is a little piece of clear plastic with a green frost paint on it, this makes the light shining through green regardless of whats behind it, or some ugly odd colour if you use different colour bulbs.

    and yes there were just regular stock bulbs behind there. two #37 bulbs. This is why I didn't just stick an LED in. LEDs are directional, and bulbs are not. Just putting an LED in wouldn't shine light anywhere and the panel would be very dim. that's why I "aimed" the LEDs in the light guide, this makes the panel just pop man.

    I'm working with another guy to make up a newer style overlay.

    I will also be doing my shift selector overlay :D the whole fuckin' thing is goin' blue. and I'm waiting on some new reverse glow gauges to show up.

  8. Well, I seen it in another thread, and it got my gears turning. I didn't like the idea of purchasing a smaller #37 replacement LED and just dropping it in the slot.... simply was NOT bright enough for my tastes.

    So I decided to take a bit of a different route.

    I took the entire unit apart, and using a dremel I carved holes into the clear plastic light guide, and inserted LEDs into various spots that would shine the LEDs light right down the guide, and at the spots that catch the light.

    a few well placed LEDs light up the entire panel beautifually, however, don't be fooled, this was really really hard. It took me 5 whole hours to do all of the soldering, wiring, testing, and fitment, which required modification of the housing in a few spots because each of my LEDs has it's own resistor. I wasn't going to waste resistors that came with the LED's and the electronic stores weren't open at that hour. I also had one of the black wires break after I got it to fit finally..... and had to take it apart to resolder it. I used a lot of superglue to hold the bulbs in, as well as reinforce some of the spots with the wires shoved into the holes so they wouldn't move.... basically I encased the wire bunches in glue so they would never move.

    I soldered the final connections directly onto the circuit board in place of the bulb sockets. the socket contacts ont he board were easily solderable.

    5 LEDs installed, and superglued into place. Wiring was a PAIN, and in one spot I had to run the leads up, around, and under the guide just to get the wires on the right side of the housing and still have stuff fit.

    Light%20Guide%20Bulb%20Test%201.jpg

    Light%20Guide%20Bulb%20Test%202.jpg

    Light%20Guide%20Installed.jpg

    Modified%20SATC%20Housing.jpg

    SATC%20Test%20Light.jpg

    Sorry for quality, night pictures are hard without a tripod. It looks like the right side of the right dial is brighter, but it isn't. the ONLY trash thats SLIGHTLY dimmer than the rest is the Max A/C trash.... but it's still plenty bright.

    Blue%20SATC%20Finished.jpg

    I opted not to light the buttons as there didn't seem to be a point, and it would have been near impossible. that piece is important for holding the switches and I didn't want to risk it breaking.... there's only 3 for god sake, I think I can figure out where they are.

    I also haven't replaced the green lens over the display yet. I haven't found a piece I like yet. :)

  9. Awesome!!!

    It sounds badass now, and wasn't hard.... or expensive.

    I hacked off the resonators, then cut the tips off of them. I purchased two pieces of straight pipe($20 @ crappy tire), cut them to the right size, and welded the resonator tips on them.

    put in place, the tips are basically in the exact same spot that they were when the resonators were in.

    I haven't yet put a mount on them, but I think a couple of eye hooks welded on to the pipes will hook right on to the existing resonator mounts.

    It was a quick and dirty job, the pipes were just welded back on to keep the exhaust coming out in the same spot..... there on good enough to hold...... the MIG ran out of CO2, but still got the job finished.

    I gotta go pickup my gf from work in a couple of hours, and shes gonna get in, hear it and say(with a priceless look on her face, knowing what my dad spent on his Magnaflows on his dodge pickup that almost sound the same to someone who doesn't know) "What did you do?" ......

    I'll reel her in a bit before I tell her it was only a $20 job.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2WLoU-8Eso

  10. if your going to run wire outside or in any harsh environment, follow fords advice (take a look under the hood for an example)

    first, go and purchase 75 rolls of electrcial tape, and some split wire loom large enough for your wire.

    wrap the wire entirely in electrical tape...... 3x

    cover the wire with the wire loom.

    Wrap the loom completely in electrical tape...... 5x

    If you have any tape left over, wrap everything again until it's all gone. that will protect your wires for life. over time, the shit gets really hard too.

    I was removing some loom from some wires in my engine so I can do the big 3, and holy crap man, what a job. a 6" piece of loom was wrapped with like 3 rolls of tape.

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