Joker
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Posts posted by Joker
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I only have one + and one -
here is a pic
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Hu is a Pioneer 880prs , box is 6cuft .
Whats stumping me is this amp has more speaker hookups than what Im used to and then the way the book is saying to hook it up . The sub is wired correctly in the box but stumped on how to wire it to the amp lol . Sounds stupid I know .
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Headunit wise I have the eq settings for the lows all flat , no loud on or anything that should make the headunit clip .
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I had it + to + , - to - at first and then I was listening to it and all of a sudden the damn sub starts popping so I tried how the sundown book that come with the amp shows .
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Well I have been waiting for various parts of the system and finally I get everything installed and it sounds weak.
I am stumped on how to properly wire my new amp to my sub so I get the 1 ohm load.
I have the sub wired correctly inside the box and I am running one dual 2ohm 18" btl.
I dont have a O-scope so my plan was to just crack the gain to a 1/4 turn from off just to see if everything works etc . I am going to order a O-scope hear pretty soon when I get the money.
So gain is set 1/4 turn / LPF around 80 I think (hard to tell what it is , have it between a 1/4 and a 1/2 a turn)/ Subsonic I was shooting for 27Hz , I have it around 1/4 turn . Bass boost is all the way off and the phase is all the way down .
What is phase ?
I looked at the manual I got with the amp and on page under single amp connection and the diagrahm showing one sub 1~4 ohms it shows the + of sub side to connect to the negative of the amp sides and the negative of the sub side to connect with the + side of the amp .
my sub end of my setup has no bass really and when I turn the volume up the sub starts popping like its gonna blow the fuc up or somthing and the gain is only at a 1/4 turn . I feel like a fool now
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How about (2) 15" Q's sealed ?
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For (2) 12"s I would shoot for more around 4 cubic foot net internal volume at the minimum (with all displacements taken into account) .
Also them boxes you fellas are coming up with dont have very much port area . Not even in the 12-16sq in rule of thumb area .
Last thing I notice is the 3" width port being 2x" in length to get your tune is jacking up the Port Length to Port Width ratio . Rule of thumb is to go no higher than what .. 9:1 , I like to stay under 7:1 myself . Yours is around 8.5:1 .
Cliff : Not enough internal volume , not enough port area , port width too narrow .
Try this
33" W
18" H
23" D
4.5" W port
0 on the second port in that re calculator
= plenty of internal volume , plenty of port area , plenty of port with a 5.61:1 ratio .
Even though its tuned a bit higher itll smash them little boxes you fellas where figuring up .
With both subs in the box the net volume would be about 5cuft tuned to right under 35Hz .
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First I'd like to thank the OP . I downloaded audicity and I am currently checking various song's I have .
It's suprising to see some song's that sound so clear have clipped spots . That waveform deal show's you it very clearly .
I run a few I downloaded and damn major clipping . I then run a bunch from my own personal modified song's I slowed down using Virtual DJ .
The one's I did myself are loud and clear and way away from clipping . I am only using Virtual DJ from now on from what I see . It was easy for me to use also .
I am going to throw away most of my burned cd's and run each song from now on through audicity to get the visual waveform to check for clipping .
Going to be some work but whatever protect's my equipment .
How are you guys saving the picture to show everyone ? I would like to show the difference between my Virtual DJ modified and one variously downloaded .
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I didn't want to use 2x4 , they eat to much space and block the airflow. You have a wall , how about for just the common box .
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Box is 6ft3 net * 32hz , 77.5sq inch port for a loaded 18" btl , sub up / port back , power is going to be a sundown 3500d * 1ohm .
I was thinking of furthering the 45's to the top and bottom running horizontially{ very small peices not huge 45's like you see ) , not in the port though . More to get rid of as many 90 degree angles as I can . Do you guys think I should make the 45 on the port side bigger/wider ?
Also thinking of putting a peice horizontally of sanded and rounded edged 3/4" mdf peice about 4" in length inside the middle of the 5" width port . Thought of making an extended peice that continues horizontially almost to the 45 since the area is wide open there .
The top I have 2 peices cut so it is getting double baffled , sub will mount on second .
Thinking 1/2" All thread making almost a cross inside the box mounted as close to middle as possible dodging the subs massive magnet . Maybe 2 peices of wooden dowel rod's running vertically on side of sub edge to help support the middle baffle area . I am going to try to mount the sub as far away from the internal port opening as possible .
Here's some picture's of my box so far .
Only my 2nd box I designed and built myself and I dont have a table saw or router , so take it easy .
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If you ever seen a 4th gen F body rear space its similar looking to that .
Heres mine I built a while back for a single 12" ~ 28"Wide , 17.75" High including second baffle , bottom depth of 12" / top depth of 14" . Back is flat , front angles out .
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Post a picture of the space your working with if you could .
2,500watt rms I would try to build everything out of MDF , not sure how strong a fiberglass top would be ?
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All that MDF making up 2 seperate chambers , why not design it simple like Boon's ?
One face with 2 subs and a simple single L port .
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Thought that could be the case but when the HU voltage readout goes 11.9 a battery indicator lamp comes on in the instrument cluster .
Its probably both a old tired battery and something loose inside the alternator . Has a warranty until 07-07-09 so if it still does it with a new battery I am sending it back , have all my paperwork .
Then I am going to sell it to a noob
and get a MECHMAN alternator . -
I went and has the battery checked and it kept saying replace battery lol , so I think thats what I am going to try first .
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Seems like it would be , where do you see it having the problem .. sitting idling or driving ? Does it do it with the rpms up ?
How much amps does you alternator put out throughout the rpm range ?
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I just checked the connection / plug and its all good and tight . Fired it up and 14.5-14.6volts at a cold engine temp , idling 1600rpm .
But that dont really say much as they all putout killer voltage when cold .
One thing I wanna change is the engine to chassis ground , right now its in the same spot as stock but its all Kicker 4 gauge .
The stock location is the front radiator support and its pretty thin . I am going to move it to be bolted to the strut towers , seems the metal is 3 times as thick there and thats where my battery to chassis ground is . Should help a little .
I have enough 1/0 Knukonceptz Fleks powerwire from my other car and I want to upgrade to that instead of the 4gauge . Should help a little .
MECHMAN hows this for output lol , I dug and found all the info reciets / warranty info etc on this alternator .
Not sure what size pulley it has but it says common ratio is 3:1 and to divide alternator rpm by 3 = engine rpm .
So from the sheet they sent with my alternator showing its output this is what is puts out ~
533rpm - 5.6 amps
600rpm - 24 amps
667rpm - 41 amps
833rpm - 76.5 amps
1000rpm - 101.1amps
1333rpm - 129.2amps
1667rpm - 148.8amps
2000rpm - 161.7amps
2333rpm - 170.9amps
2667rpm - 175amps
I am not dogging the company cause I have the same brand on my other car , 200amp buts its on a LS1 V8 with 6rib belt .
I have had it for alonger period of time and I have had nothing but good voltage with it .
This little unit though just won't cut it for the Sundown SAZ-3500D I have coming .
Keep in mind this little 1.8L 4cylinder idles 600rpm at full temperature .
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If your on a budget stick to 1500watt rms on down so you wont have to get serious with the electrical . One good battery up front should handle that with 1/0 big 3 .
Then save for a good 200-250 amp alternator like the MECHMAN ProPower or Rhino largecase conversion model so if you do decide to go bigger with your setup later on . All you would need electrical wise then would be good battery out back and more 1/0 gauge wiring and fuses .
Maybe go with (1) Audioque HDC3 copper coil 15" ($249 each) http://www.audioque.com/aq/HDCSeries.htm in a 40Hz tune ported box . Probably the stoutest built sub on the market for the $$$ .
Later you could get another HDC3 15" and upgrade your power , cause I agree with everyone saying to buy for later on even if you have to wait .
Thats why I reccomend 1 baddass sub in a good enclosure rather than 2 halfass models that when you go to upgrade your either stuck with them or have to sell at a loss .
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How about Audioque Street Duty SDC2.5 Series 12"s .. $139 each instead of the Type R's .
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Im thinking the internal voltage regulator in the alternator is going bad , what you think ?
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I was driving the car in feb'09 and all of a sudden it stalls on me .I tried to restart it and nothing . I was sitting in the middle of the road so I had to push the car off to the side . Popped the hood to make sure the engine didnt go on me , everything looked fine . Headlights would come on bright , interior dome light was normal brightness so I figured the battery was cool .
The car had gas showing 1/4 tank on the needle and I have run it until the light comes on before . Guy and his wife pulled over to help me and I tried to jump start it just to see if it would help , it turned over a little faster than normal but wouldnt crank up . I finally called for a ride and I went and filled up some gas cans thinking maybe the gas gauge stop working . When I got back to the car I popped one of the ignition wires off and had my rides driver turn the engine over . Didnt see any spark , gas wasnt helping this car get home so I had to pull it .
Turned out to be a bad ingnition coil . Put a new one in and it fired right up
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I was coming home from the probation office and was driving down the road normally , stereo down just to where its audible and I look at the voltage reading off my headunit .. reading 11.9 - 12.1 volts .
It has done this too me before around november '08 , stuck in a traffic jam and the voltage reading was 14.1-14.4 one second and then I glanced back at it and its dropped to 11.9-12.1 then the little battery light comes on . Then all of a sudden it shoots back to 13.7-13.9 -14.1-14.4 like it was no big deal and the light disappears . It did this at a low engine idle , engine normal temperature and stereo at a audible level like today .
Now on my way there I was banging it etc then turn it down . My battery is about 6years old , not sure if that could be causeing it ? Car starts right up so I figured the battery was cool .
Im worried now though with it doing it while the car was cruising down the road , engine rpm 2,000-2,500rpm . Just stayed at 12.1 like it wasnt charging only running off battery power or something . I pushed in the clutch to see if it was belt slip and had the same reading . Then with the clutch pressed in still rolling down the road I reved it to 4,000rpm and held it and immediately it read 13.7-13.9 14.1 14.4 etc , let off of the clutch and it dropped back to 12.1 .
I was in a bad part of town so I was hoping the damn car didnt die out on me and then all of a sudden it reads 14.1 -13.9 volts on the rest of my drive .
I then drove it about 30miles and everything was fine , turned the car off and it restarted . When I pulled into my driveway I seen the little battery light come on and sure enough the voltage was 11.9-12.1 . I hurried up and popped the hood and looked to see if the belt was slipping or something and it was turning just fine . Then it all of a sudden goes back to 13.9-14.1 volts like nothings wrong and I recheck how the belt looks with good voltage and its tuning the same as before .
The alternator I bought off ebay , supposed to be new and it looked new when I installed it around summer '08 , its supposed to be a 170amp unit .
Not sure wtf is going on with it
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In the RE calculator type this in the red in this order.
http://reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
30
16
24
24
0.75
4
0
16" H x 30" W x 24" D
4.5cuft @ 32.79Hz without the sub - Fi BL 15"sub displacement is .18cuft = 4.32cuft @ 33.xx Hz with the sub .
Little bigger than listed but I think this size is acceptable and will bang hard .
As you can see 4" slot port x 26" long = length to width ratio of 6.5:1
58sq in port area , 13.43sq in per cuft .
Cut sheet ~
Bottom - 24"d x 30"w
Back - 14.5"h x 30"w
Left side - 14.5"h x 23.25"d ( port side , drivers side )
Right side - 14.5"h x 22.5"d
Front - 14.5"h x 25.25"w
Port- 14.5"h x 18.5"d
Top- 24"d x 30"w
Final ~ 4.32cuft @ 33Hz displaced , 58sq in port area
Sub inside cut diameter = 14.125" .
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Use the Aeroport calculator .. http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu6I2Q9FJTWwB..._calculator.cgi
The port length is for each port . If you have a Flared kit , you go by the flared calculation .
To cut the straight ports to what you need take the flared length and minus it by 5" .
Each flared end including the ring is about 2.5" L .
Example ~ 4cuft , 32Hz tune , 3" diameter port , 2 ports = Flare Length Port required 8.11"
Cutt each straight port tube to 3.11" L . Assemble and thats it .
and get a MECHMAN alternator ..gif){kind=small}
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I Need Help Setting Up My Saz-3500d
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
Posted
Like I have it here
The sub I wired parallel inside the box